Hebron, (Israel/palestine)

Stepping off a gloomy public bus into the midday sun, my eyes slowly adjust to an unfamiliar place. Dark armored glass shields you from everything, not just potential bullets.

Walking down a hot & dusty road past empty shops, empty apartments, empty sidewalks. There’s a palpable sense of history here. But I can feel tension too.

A man with an automatic rifle watches me approach.

Hebron City In The West Bank

For the next few days I was visiting the West Bank city of Hebron to learn more about the Israeli & Palestinian conflict from the people who live here. The city is a complicated & controversial place — as is the topic.

Let me begin by stating that I’m not an expert on this subject.

I’m not a professional journalist. I’m not a historian. I’m not Israeli or Palestinian.

All I can do is share my experience from an outsider’s perspective — simply what I heard and saw while visiting as a well-traveled tourist.

For me, traveling to Israel without witnessing what is happening in the West Bank was not an option. This is a key reason why I travel, to learn about the world through personal experience.

A Brief History Of The Conflict

Before I continue, some history as I understand it. The West Bank is the largest of the Palestinian Territories, located in the East of the country. The Gaza Strip is a much smaller territory in the South West of the country.

To the Palestinian people and the United Nations, the West Bank is part of the future/current State of Palestine. However, it’s been occupied by the State of Israel since the Six Day War of 1967.

To the Israeli government, the Palestinian Territories are part of Israel and the historic Jewish homeland.

In its simplest terms, this is the heart of the problem.

Settlements In Hebron

Hebron is considered ground-zero for the controversial Israeli settlement movement. A settlement is where Israelis move into Palestinian areas, often illegally, and start building homes or claiming old buildings for themselves.

Or outright kicking Palestinian’s out of their homes altogether so they can move in.

It’s a flashpoint for violence on both sides, and a unique situation in Hebron because Israeli settlements here are located in the HEART of a Palestinian city rather than out in the countryside.

After the 1993 Oslo Accords, Hebron was divided into 2 different sectors. The Palestinian controlled H1 Zone (80%), and the Israeli controlled H2 Zone (20%).

Both sides claim to be victims of an “apartheid” type system, with neither able to move freely through the whole city.

Joining A Dual Narrative Tour

While I spent 3 days exploring the city of Hebron, the first day was with a fascinating project called the Dual Narrative Tour.

It’s a rare collaborative effort between the Israeli owned Abraham Tours and the Palestinian run Visit Hebron-Palestine.

This innovative tour is split between a Palestinian guide and an Israeli guide, each showing us their respective parts of the city. Meeting with locals and hearing stories from both sides. It was an excellent introduction to the area.

We learned what actually goes on here from the people who live in Hebron.

The Palestinian Side (H1)

A man with an automatic rifle smiles as we walk by. He’s a member of the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) tasked with guarding the entrance of Al Shuhada Street (aka King David Street).

The area is also called “Ghost Town”. A kind of no-man’s land between the two sections of the city.

This street was closed in 1994 when an Israeli settler went on a shooting spree killing 29 Palestinian Muslims at the Cave of the Patriarchs mosque. Rioting and more deaths followed, prompting the IDF to create a buffer zone between the two sides.

Palestinians who lived & worked on Al Shuhada Street were forced to relocate, with no time to collect their belongings. Buildings lining the street were sealed shut by the military, leaving them empty and abandoned.

Walking down this empty road, we meet our Palestinian guide Mohammed who takes us through a 2nd military checkpoint marking the entrance to H1 — the Palestinian zone.

The Hebron Market

Passing through the checkpoint into H1, our initial stop is Hebron’s bustling market. Made up of simple stalls selling vegetables, dresses, underwear, shoes, and other basic goods.

A wire mesh hangs over the street above our heads.

The purpose of this curious barrier is to stop Israeli settlers who live in the buildings above from throwing garbage down onto Palestinians as they shop. But it feels like a cage.

When tensions are high, dirty dishwater and even bleach have been poured onto Palestinians here. It’s a disturbing occurrence, especially when you take into account that years ago Arabs & Jews lived together in Hebron as peaceful neighbors.

Ironically, the word Hebron means “City of Friendship.”

Meeting Muslim Families

Mohammed takes us to meet Abed and Hadia, who’s family of 8 lives in an 800-year-old building that’s now attached to a settlement. Jewish settlers have been intimidating & attacking them for years.

Hadia explains over tea that she is actually Abed’s 2nd wife, his first was tragically shot to death by an Israeli settler outside their home. While pregnant.

Hadia’s own son was blinded by a bleach attack in Hebron’s market.

Outside her home we run into a group of TIPH international observers with a United States Embassy delegation.

They are guarded by armed men in black vests, black sunglasses, and radio earpieces — likely members of a private security contracting company.

Next, we visit Sa’heed and his family who also live beside Israeli settlements.

He shows us where IDF soldiers raided and ransacked their home in the middle of the night, how Israeli settlers regularly climb onto their roof to cut holes into their water tanks.

We are all at a loss for words, unable to imagine living like this.

The Israeli Side (H2)

Filled with sadness & anger, we leave Mohammed and walk through the metal revolving door of another IDF military checkpoint to meet with our Jewish guide Eliyahu in the Israeli controlled H2 zone.

It’s time to hear the other side of the story in Hebron.

Eliyahu takes us to the Israeli settlement of Avraham Avinu, one of 5 settlements located around the city of Hebron surrounded by guard towers, razor wire, and concrete barriers.

Built in 1540, the Abraham Avinu Synagogue was destroyed during the 1929 Hebron Massacre, when 67 Jews were murdered by a mob of Arabs who were reacting to the false rumor by their leader that Jews were attacking Muslims in Jerusalem.

It was the British, who controlled Palestine at the time, that forced remaining Jews to leave Hebron for good.

Settlers eventually returned to re-establish themselves in the old Jewish quarter of Hebron after Israel took control of the West Bank in 1967, and the synagogue was rebuilt.

Eliyahu opens a display case showing us a 500-year-old Torah scroll that managed to survive the synagogue’s destruction and Jewish massacre.

Meeting With Jewish Settlers

Rabbi Simcha is an Israeli settler who moved to Hebron from New York. We sit down in his home to discuss the situation in Hebron, to get another perspective.

He explains that to settlers, Hebron is the cradle of Jewish civilization. Home to the tombs of their most important religious figures: Abraham, Isaac and Jacob.

Can you imagine if Christians weren’t allowed in Jerusalem?

If Muslims weren’t allowed in Mecca?

This is why Jews want access to Hebron, why Jewish settlers like him move here from all over the world despite the risks.

When asked about Israeli settler violence, Mr. Simcha says that in their community, they “don’t believe in turning the other cheek”. It may not be a nice thing to do, but it’s normal to respond when you’re attacked.

In his view, Arab attacks in Hebron are more frequent and serious. Like when a Palestinian sniper murdered a Jewish baby in 2001, when Rabbi Shapira was killed in 2002, or the many suicide bombings that have happened.

Jewish settlers have a policy of building in the location where acts of violence against them happen, to remember & honor the dead. We saw memorial plaques on new buildings throughout the Jewish quarter of Hebron dedicated to people who were killed by Palestinian terrorists.

I was beginning to understand that the violence, however horrible, is by no means one-sided.

Tomb Of The Patriarchs

The most famous religious site in Hebron, the Cave of the Patriarchs (also known as the Sanctuary of Abraham) is incredibly sacred to both Jews & Muslims. It’s where Abraham (Ibrāhīm) is buried.

Abraham is considered both the father of Judaism (the first Jew) and a pioneer of Islam (a Muslim prophet). He’s important in Christianity too.

The building has been split in half to accommodate both faiths.

In fact, it’s the only structure in the world that is both a mosque and a synagogue. The tomb itself can be looked onto from small barred windows on each side, with a bullet-proof shield between them.

We’re forced to go through a series of strict security checks before entering.

Regular Violence In Hebron

There are still attacks in Hebron, perpetrated by both sides, often by teenagers & young adults.

Just down the road is where some Israeli teens were tragically kidnapped & killed by members of Hamas, igniting the start of the 2014 Gaza War that only ended a few weeks before I arrived.

The violence in Hebron comes and goes in waves.

Stone-throwing. Military raids. Acts of vandalism. Thefts. Rioting. Many Palestinian suicide bombers are from Hebron; but Hebron is also the home of the Kach Party, a Jewish terrorist organization.

While sensational headlines keep most tourists away, tourists themselves are generally not a target for this violence.

A Learning Experience

Unfortunately, most of us get our information from the often biased & incomplete evening news. Including me. I had my own preconceived notions about what was happening in the West Bank, as I’m sure most of you do.

Visiting the divided city of Hebron gave me new insight and empathy for those involved on both sides of the conflict.

The situation is definitely not as black & white as it may appear from the outside. Yes, living here can be difficult, but life goes on anyway.

The conflict in Israel can be summed up with a popular phrase here — “it’s complicated”. So very complicated.

A majority of actual Israeli and Palestinian people desperately want the violence to stop. It seems to be the extremist groups on BOTH sides, and governments with too much power, who unfortunately prevent this from happening.

Walking back through Hebron’s military checkpoints on Al Shuhada Street, I reflect on the sad stories I’ve heard. But there were plenty of smiles & new friends too.

I look forward to a day when both sides can find a peaceful solution. ★

Discussion Tips

I know this is a controversial topic, but please keep your comments civil. Disagreement is fine, but rude/profane remarks will not be tolerated.

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Would you ever visit the West Bank in Israel? What’s your opinion on the conflict? Let me know in the comments below!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Visiting Religious Sites in Jerusalem

Jerusalem, Israel

Jerusalem is one of the oldest & holiest cities in the world, home to important religious sites for Muslims, Jews, and Christians. These are some of the most sacred sites you can visit there.

All three of the world’s major monotheistic faiths consider Jerusalem sacred, and the city is full of fascinating holy sites to visit.

You don’t have to be religious to appreciate the city’s tumultuous past & cultural significance either.

I spent a few days exploring the Old City, which has been fought over for centuries — you can still see bullet holes scaring the city’s stone gates.

Jerusalem is a magnet for both conflict & spiritual inspiration.

In no particular order, here are the 3 most important religious sites in Jerusalem, including tips for visiting and intriguing history about them.

Top Religious Sites In Jerusalem

Dome of the Rock

Al-Aqsa Mosque

The Temple Mount (Haram al-Sharif)

The Temple Mount is a massive plaza of stone in the South East corner of Jerusalem’s Old City surrounded by date palms and cypress trees. Arguably the most holy place in the city, it has major significance to all 3 religions (Islam, Judaism, and Christianity).

It’s thought to be Mount Moriah, where Abraham offered to sacrifice his son Isaac to God. Today on the Temple Mount complex you’ll find 2 important Islamic structures, the Dome of The Rock & the Al-Aqsa Mosque.

For Jews, the Temple Mount was the location of the First Temple, built by King Solomon in 957 BC to house the Ark of the Covenant (which held the Ten Commandments) in a special room called “The Holy of Holies”.

It’s the most sacred site in Judaism, and the Foundation Stone under the dome is where Earth was first created.

For Muslims, Haram al-Sharif (Noble Sanctuary) is the 3rd holiest site in Islam after Mecca & Medina in Saudi Arabia. The rock under the dome is where the Prophet Muhammad left Earth to visit heaven on a winged horse during his Night Journey in the 7th Century. It was also the direction of Islamic prayer before God allowed Muhammad to pray towards Mecca instead.

For Christians, the Temple Mount is significant because the Jewish temple located here was where Jesus prayed daily & later preached with his disciples.

Temple Mount Complex

A Peek Inside Al-Aqsa

Tips For Visiting

The Temple Mount is a controversial & culturally significant place. Israel took control of the Old City in 1967, but Muslims continue to manage the site. However armed Israeli soldiers patrol inside. It’s a regular flashpoint for protests & violence between Jews & Arabs.

Tourists can usually visit the Temple Mount, but there are restrictions. The entrance for non-Muslims is at Mughrabi Bridge (an enclosed wooden ramp) near the Western Wall. It’s a religious site, so modest dress is required.

You must pass a security checkpoint with metal detectors, and certain religious artifacts are not allowed in (Bibles, crosses, Star of David, etc.)

Tourists can walk around the plaza taking photos, but are currently not allowed inside the Dome of the Rock or the Al-Aqsa Mosque after a fire was set inside the mosque by a Christian extremist many years ago.

However you can peek inside Al-Aqsa from a window on the side of the building. Jews can visit the Temple Mount, but they can’t pray openly. When I was there, Jews were guarded by armed Israeli soldiers and greeted with chants of Allahu Akbar (God is Great) from groups of praying Muslims nearby.

There is definitely tension in the air, but it didn’t feel overly dangerous.

Temple Mount Hours

• Closed to non-Muslims on Fridays & Saturdays
• Open 7:30am – 11am and 1:30pm – 2:30pm
• Sometimes closed due to tensions between Jews & Arabs

The Western (Wailing) Wall

Jewish Men Praying at the Wall

The Western (Wailing) Wall

The Western Wall is an ancient stone retaining wall built for the 2nd Temple that surrounds the whole Temple Mount plaza. Also called the Wailing Wall, it’s believed to be the closest spot to Solomon’s original temple and the Holy of Holies (or Gate of Heaven), the place where Jewish prayer is directed.

For Muslims, the Western Wall is known as the Buraq Wall, where the Prophet Muhammed tied his winged horse Buraq.

Prayer notes are frequently left between crevices of the huge 2 – 8 ton stones, Bar Mitzvahs are held here, and you’ll find people praying 24 hours a day. There’s a separate women’s prayer area off to the right side. Only a small section of the Western Wall is visible, the rest extends underground.

The Western Wall was captured by Jordan during the 1948 Arab-Israeli War and Jews were restricted from visiting for 19 years. However it was recaptured by Israel during the 1967 Six-Day War, with the Israeli military bulldozing all the Arab homes in front of it.

Prayer Notes Stuck in Cracks

Orthodox Prayer Group

Tips For Visiting

Visitors to the Western Wall are expected to wear a kippa (skull cap) freely provided at the entrance, and dress modestly as if they were visiting a synagog. As with the Temple Mount, there is a security checkpoint with metal detectors. Cameras & electronic devices are not allowed on Saturdays, the Jewish sabbath.

Jewish custom is to backup as you leave the wall, but this isn’t mandatory. There are cool underground tunnels which allow you to see much more of the structure, the entrance is at the left corner of the visible wall.

Western Wall Hours

• Open 24 hours a day, every day
• Tunnels are open Sunday – Thursday, 7am – Afternoon

The Aedicule (Tomb of Jesus)

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Church Of The Holy Sepulchre

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre marks the spot where Jesus was crucified, buried and resurrected. It’s one of Christianity’s most important religious sites. There are a few significant things to see in the church.

The Stone of Anointing is found at the entrance, where Jesus was anointed before burial. Up the stairs to the right is Calvary, the hill where Jesus was crucified. Beneath the crucifixion altar is a hole said to be where his cross was raised.

Under the main rotunda you’ll find the Aedicule, an enclosed chapel built over the tomb of Jesus. It also holds the Angel Stone, a fragment of the round stone door used to close the tomb.

Armed crusaders visited the church as pilgrims during the First Crusades, leaving behind graffiti carved into the walls that still remains.

Today the church is shared & maintained by different denominations of Christian monks — occasionally physical fights & arguments break out between them.

The key to the church is actually looked after by a Muslim family as it has been tradition for centuries.

Calvary & the Crucifixion Altar

Possible Rock Tomb of Joseph of Arimathea

Tips For Visiting

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is a very busy place. It’s the end point of the Via Dolorosa with 4 stations of the cross located here. Much smaller than the other important religious sites in Jerusalem, it can be completely packed with tourists.

Unlike the others though, there are no checkpoints or metal detectors.

If you want to get the best photos, arrive early when they open at 5am. Yeah, I know it’s early, but you’ll have the church pretty much to yourself. Later in the day there will be a huge line of people waiting to visit the Aedicule. As with other holy sites on the list, dress modestly.

Church of Holy Sepulchre Hours

• Summer: 5am – 8pm
• Winter: 4am – 7pm
• Feeling adventurous? Spend the night there!

Where To Stay In Jerusalem

I based myself from Jerusalem for a few days, and had a wonderful trip. You really need to hang out for more than a day to experience the best of it.

If you’re wondering where to stay in Jerusalem here are my recommendations:

Jerusalem The City Of Peace

The word Jerusalem means “City of Peace” in Hebrew. But peace has never been easy here. The holiest city in the world has been fought over for thousands of years while also attracting millions of faithful pilgrims from all backgrounds.

The city of Jerusalem is a special place with fascinating historic, religious, and archeological sites to see. ★

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Location: Jerusalem, Israel

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

Recommended Guidebook: Lonely Planet Israel & Palestine
Suggested Reading: The Lemon Tree
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Have you ever visited Israel’s religious sites? Do you have some recommendations? Drop me a message in comments!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Israel National Trail

Relentless sunlight baked the air to 100°F. We pushed forward in the heat, one foot in front of the other across the barren Negev desert, hiking Israel’s National Trail.

Never waste good shade in the desert.

Over the next week I would learn to respect the importance of this golden rule. Because shade is hard to come by in the Negev, a massive desert in southern Israel.

I was here to hike the Israel National Trail, or INT, with a group of international journalists, bloggers, and Israeli university students.

At 1000 kilometers (620 miles) long, walking the entire trail takes 6-8 weeks. Zig-zagging through much of the country, it’s a collection of ancient local trails that have recently been merged into one.

Inspired by the Appalachian Trail in the United States, the INT was the brainchild of journalist Avraham Tamir who hiked its US counterpart back in the 1980’s. Israel’s trail is relatively new, officially opening in 1995.

My plan was to sample 3 different sections of the trail over the course of a week. A few days in the Negev, a few days in the Jerusalem Mountains, and a few days in the North near the Golan Heights.

The Negev Desert

Israel’s National Trail is renowned for its mixture of unique desert landscapes, rich culture, and ancient history. National Geographic called it one of the World’s Best Hikes.

Why? Because it has a little bit of everything — and you don’t need to be religious to appreciate it either.

I’ve never been hiking in a proper desert landscape before. So spending our first few days in the Negev was a fascinating experience for me. Covering more than half of Israel, the Negev is vast, hot, and dry.

Rare flash floods produce mud that quickly dries back up, cracking under the heat of the sun. We spent the night camped under a tarp with a full moon, eating hearty Poykeh stew cooked on an open fire.

Makhtesh Craters

During the hike we crossed a few different makhtesh craters. These unique geological formations are created when soft sandstone is washed away by erosion, leaving behind steep walls of harder limestone.

Mineral deposits in the sandstone are responsible for the colorful red, purple, blue, and orange hues found on the crater floor. This was not the kind of desert I was expecting. Rocky & varied terrain with mountains, craters, and large canyons.

Hiking In The Heat

Trekking through a desert in 100°F / 37°C heat is challenging, but not impossible. Like any tough hike, there’s a warm up period. Eventually you get into a rhythm, the sweat flows freely, and your body adjusts to the situation.

Fully hydrating before each hike and packing enough water is crucial though — at least 3 liters per person for a day of hiking in these conditions. I quickly fell in love with the silence and vastness of the desert.

Hunting Desert Shade

Despite the harsh conditions, life persists in the desert. Dry river-beds are the best place to find it. Trees and shrubs manage to pull up groundwater using a deep network of roots.

These trees also provide a rare source of shade along the Israel National Trail. According to our guide Asher, you should “never waste good shade in the desert”. Always take advantage of shade when you find it, as there isn’t much around…

Ropes & Ladders

On some sections of the trail, hikers must climb up crater walls. There is one in particular called the Palmah Ascent. A series of ladders, cables, and iron rungs drilled into the rock help keep you safe.

This route was first opened by elite Jewish Palmah forces in the 1940’s who were seeking a way around British troops. However they were forced to climb it free-hand. An impressive feat that earned them the nickname “Crazy Jews” from Bedouin tribes.

Wadi Canyons

The Negev is full of different wadis, or desert canyons. The Israel National Trail passes over them, through them, and up the canyon walls. While formed by water, it’s rare to see water flowing down them, other than the occasional winter flash-flood.

During these floods, wadis can fill up quickly though. There are even waterfalls. Parts of the trail can be pretty exposed with sheer drops — steel cables are in place if you’re afraid of heights.

The Big Fin

A popular hike along the trail is the Big Fin, a short but slightly more difficult climb up the side of a Makhtesh crater with spectacular views of the natural amphitheater below.

The area used to be an ocean, and fossils of ancient sea creatures can still be found in the limestone if you search hard enough. It’s also a great excuse to stop and rest while hiking this thing under the torturous midday sun…

Walking The Spice Road

Caravans of camels used to travel through the Negev desert from Yemen to the port city of Gaza loaded with spices, perfumes and salt. It was an important trade route used for thousands of years.

Ancient petroglyphs carved into rock patina can be found here, some up to 2500 years old. Researchers believe they are property markers for tribal families. Most depict rudimentary figures of people and animals, like the Ibex.

Bedouin Hospitality

We stopped by the home of Salem & his family, who prepared delicious flat bread in his traditional desert tent. Plus Arabic coffee “strong like Bedouin men, bitter like life in desert, and black like marriage”.

Israel’s Bedouin (or Negev Arab) communities make their living keeping livestock like sheep, goats, & camels. Tourism is increasingly important too. Salem offers accommodation for Israel National Trail hikers.

Wildlife & Animals

The Israeli desert hosts a few different animals, most of them nocturnal. One exception is the Nubian Ibex, a wild goat that scavenges for scrub grass during the day. Other animals include the hyrax (a large rodent), deer, fox, hyenas, wolves, and the camel.

A few poisonous animals live here too, like the Israeli Mole Viper and the Deathstalker scorpion. The only animals we came across were a herd of wild Ibex and camels at a farm.

Trail Angels

A special local community of people provide accommodation, water, dinner, or showers to hikers of the Israel National Trail. They’re called Trail Angels. Many offer these services free of charge.

In the town of Sde Boker we stayed with Arthur, a long-time trail angel who generally hosts 8-10 people each hiking season. He’s also famous for catching a rare wild Arabian Leopard, in his bedroom!

Jerusalem Mountains

After 2 days trekking in the desert, we moved North to the Valley Of Elah and the Jerusalem Mountains in the center of the country. This part of Israel is much greener and full of history. Hiking up Tel Azekah gave us a view of the valley, where legend says young David killed the Philistine giant Goliath using a sling.

A trail took us down by the creek where this battle is supposed to have happened.

Northern Israel

After 2 days around Jerusalem (which I’ll detail in a separate post), we headed North again. This time to the Jezreel Valley and Lower Galilee region. The valley is a large fertile plain used for farming wheat, sunflowers, cotton, and corn. Slightly more lush than the arid desert landscape we started from in the South.

We hiked up Mount Tabor which sits in the middle of these fields, with a small church at the top run by Franciscan monks where Jesus supposedly “transfigured” and spoke with Moses.

Mount Arbel Caves

After a night of eating some of the best food I’ve ever tasted with a Druze family, we climbed Mount Arbel for a magnificent view of Lake Kinneret, aka the Sea of Galilee.

For Bible fans, this is where Jesus supposedly walked on water. Today the lake is Israel’s largest source of drinking water. A trail takes you past ancient caves carved into the side of a cliff. Once a fortress, it’s still possible to climb up and explore them.

Israel National Trail Experience

Passing through harsh but beautiful desert landscapes, green hills and lush valleys, Jewish kibbutz farms and Arab Bedouin communities, remote wilderness and international cities is what makes walking the Israel National Trail a unique adventure.

Not to mention meeting local people from varying faiths and backgrounds willing to share their homes & hospitality with us.

My favorite part? The Negev’s desert environment. It was not what I was expecting — very different than the type of mountains I’m more accustomed to. The heat, the changing landscape, and the solitude I found there have inspired me to visit other deserts.

Hiking small sections of the National Trail over the course of the week gave me a brief yet wide glimpse of this country, I’d love to return to indulge in the full six-week experience. ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.