Costa Rica Driving Guide

Ready for an epic road trip driving in Costa Rica? Renting a car is the best way to experience this beautiful country. But there are a few things you should know before you go.

So you’ve been wanting to visit for years, and are finally planning your own epic road trip to drive around Costa Rica!

For such a small country, Costa Rica is surprisingly mountainous with winding dirt roads and occasional river crossings, so my first time driving there was quite an adventure! Since then, I’ve visited the country many times, always preferring to rent a car.

Renting a car and self-driving Costa Rica on your own is the best way to experience this stunning country, as it truly gives you the freedom to stop at every waterfall, volcano, beach, and national park along the way.

Here are some important tips I learned about driving Costa Rica, so you’re ready to hit the road and explore the Rich Coast on a vacation you’ll never forget.

Driving In Costa Rica Guide (2023)

1. Should You Drive In Costa Rica?

Hey, if you love those big group bus tours, by all means, go book one. It’s a decent way to see Costa Rica if you don’t have a lot of time.

No planning, no driving, just sit back and let someone else do all the work!

But if you’re like me, you prefer the adventure of independent travel.

No set schedule or timetable — driving around Costa Rica with the freedom to stop anyplace cool you find along the way.

If that’s the kind of traveler you are, renting a car in Costa Rica is the way to go!

Yes, there is a public bus system in Costa Rica too, but it’s really only good for getting from one big town to another, and often the bus stops are located just outside of town, so you’ll also end up having to take a taxi. Not to mention that traveling by public bus is just a slower way to get around the country.

Just keep in mind that some of the back roads in Costa Rica can be very rough & muddy, and some local drivers don’t follow their own laws. With some practice though, you’ll gain confidence driving here!

Another nice thing we enjoyed about having a car was the ability to store things in the trunk, stopping off in Costa Rican towns with small travel backpacks rather than hauling luggage everywhere.

2. Where To Rent Your Car In Costa Rica

Some common car rental companies in Costa Rica include Enterprise, Sixt, Hertz, a local one called Adobe Rent-a-Car, and many more.

But the best site to book your car is Discover Cars. They search both local and international car rental companies to help you find the best possible price. This is the easiest way to rent a car in Costa Rica.

We rented our car from San Jose Airport in Alajuela, and began our Costa Rican road trip from there.

San Jose Airport: Plan to pick up your car about 60 minutes after your flight arrives. When departing, try to be at the airport at least 3 1/2 hours before your flight leaves. Because returning your rental car and catching a shuttle back to the airport can take up to 30 minutes.

Liberia Airport: Plan to pick up your car about 30 minutes after your flight arrives. When departing, try to be at the airport at least 2 1/2 hours before your flight leaves. Again, because of the shuttle.

Rent A Car In Costa Rica

Search both local and international car rental companies to help you find a good deal.

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3. Car Rental Insurance In Costa Rica

Some of the rumors about driving in Costa Rica are true, and the roads are VERY rough in some areas. Especially the back roads outside Costa Rica’s smaller towns. Don’t worry, I’ll share some tips for dealing with them below.

This is why I highly recommend getting full insurance coverage.

Typically, rental cars in Costa Rica come with a basic Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), but this isn’t exactly insurance, and only covers the car for up to $1000-3000 USD worth of damage.

This is the amount they hold on your credit card until you return the car in one piece. CDW typically does not include tire, cracked windshield, or undercarriage damage either.

While you can often save money booking your car with a good travel credit card that includes car rental insurance, you REALLY must read the fine print, because many people wrongly assume their card covers them in Costa Rica.

If you get in a wreck driving in Costa Rica, declined full coverage, and you suddenly learn your credit card doesn’t actually cover the damage — you’re screwed. I can’t tell you how many travel horror stories I’ve heard like this…

It’s why I usually pre-book full coverage online. It’s cheaper than at the counter — and then you won’t have to worry about accidents at all!

4. How Much Does In Cost To Rent A Car In Costa Rica?

Renting a car in Costa Rica is going to cost you around $25-$40 USD a day, depending on the type of car you get. Our 4-door sedan was about $25 per day. A four-wheel drive SUV will cost you more like $40-$70 USD per day.

A 4X4 campervan, or truck with a tent attached, is going to cost over $100 USD per day (however you can sleep in it too!)

I recommend renting a car with an actual trunk (no hatchbacks) to hide your luggage from prying eyes. It helps to prevent break-ins if thieves can’t see your stuff.

Gas Prices

Currently, gas costs about $4.75 USD per gallon ($1.25 per liter) in Costa Rica. Diesel cars will often save you some money on gas, and diesel fuel costs about $4.20 per gallon. It’s much more expensive than in the gas in the United States!

Automatic vs Manual

Automatic cars are more expensive to rent than manual cars (but manuals are more common in Costa Rica), and you must specify what type you want when booking. If you’ve never driven a manual car before, don’t start in Costa Rica! It’s safer to get an automatic.

One-Way Rentals

There’s an additional fee for one-way car rentals in Costa Rica, which can vary by company. For example, if you want to drop off the car in a different city than where you started from. But because the country is so small, you probably won’t need to do this.

5. Age Requirements For Renting A Car

The minimum age for driving in Costa Rica is between 21-25 years old, depending on the company you book a car with. They also might charge an additional fee (usually $10 a day) if you’re under 25 years old.

6. Things To Remember While Driving In Costa Rica

Driving laws in Costa Rica are similar to driving laws in any other country. However local drivers don’t always follow them. For example, drivers may not use turn signals or will run red lights if they think they can get away with it.

Speed Limits In Costa Rica

Speed limits in Costa Rica are quoted in kilometers per hour. The maximum speed on most highways is 120 km/h (about 74 miles per hour). On secondary roads, the limit is usually 60km/h (37 miles per hour), and around towns & cities it is 40km/h (25 miles per hour).

If you happen to get a speeding ticket, please let your car rental company know right away, as you’ll have to pay for it when you drop off the car at the end of your trip.

Road Signs In Costa Rica

The road signs in Costa Rica should be pretty self-explanatory, as they look similar to US road signs, just in Spanish. You can browse some common Costa Rican road signs here.

Road Conditions

Costa Rica’s highways are paved and in good condition, however the country is also covered in back roads. Lots of dirt roads, and many are not in great shape. Muddy, potholes, etc. If you plan on driving off the beaten path in Costa Rica, I highly recommend renting a four-wheel drive SUV. Some bridges are only single lane, requiring one car to wait for the other to cross before proceeding.

River Crossings

You can road trip around Costa Rica without ever having to cross a river, but there are also some back roads that pass through rivers. Especially during the wet/rainy season, and in the Nicoya Peninsula, Drake Bay and Osa Peninsula areas. If you’ve never crossed a river before, please watch someone else go first!

Put your vehicle into 4X4 mode, go slow, and pay attention to the route. Some rivers aren’t crossed directly, but require you to drive up or down stream before exiting. This can be due to hidden obstacles, depth, or simply the best entry/exit points.

7. International Driver’s License

No, you do not need an international driver’s license to drive in Costa Rica or rent a car there. Just bring your passport, credit card, and your driver’s license from your home country. So yes, you can drive in Costa Rica with a US driver’s license.

8. Extra Advice For Renting A Car & Driving In Costa Rica

• Lock your doors while driving in Costa Rica, and never leave valuables visible in your car.
• Pedestrians don’t really have right-of-way in Costa Rica. Meaning if you politely stop in the road to let someone cross, they’ll be confused, and the car behind you won’t expect it — which could cause an accident! This is similar in Mexico and other parts of Central America.
• Don’t book a car without reading the company reviews. You’ll find plenty of bad reviews for every company (people love to complain online), but try to pick one with the LEAST bad reviews.
• You may not always get the make/model/type of car you booked. If they give you a smaller car, or a manual when you asked for an automatic, be pushy and ask for an upgrade.
• Inspect your car thoroughly and record video on your smartphone pointing out damage before you leave. This is a backup if they attempt to charge you for damage that was already there. This is a common car rental scam in Costa Rica….
• Pay attention to if your Costa Rica rental car takes regular gas or diesel fuel, so you fill up with the correct type at gas stations.
• Use Google Maps on your smartphone for directions instead of renting a GPS device. Simply use your own hands-free car mount and a good international cell phone plan.

9. Accident & Breakdown Information

In an emergency, you can dial the Costa Rican Emergency Phone Number which is 911, just like in the United States. They have an English speaking line too.

However if your car simply breaks down, and no one is injured, its probably better to call your Costa Rican car rental company’s own emergency roadside assistance number located on the rental agreement.

Enjoy Your Costa Rica Road Trip!

Exploring the small villages, pristine beaches, jungle mountains, and national parks of Costa Rica in a rental car was definitely the right choice for us.

Self-drive road trips allow you to get off the beaten track to see things most people miss! ★

Rent A Car In Costa Rica

Search both local and international car rental companies to help you find a good deal.

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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica

Surfing is unpredictable, and forces you out of your comfort zone. You only have a few seconds to decide if you’re going to commit to that wave quickly barreling down behind you.

If you guess wrong, or hesitate, the results might not be pleasant. But if you guess right… the natural high of riding the power of the ocean is pure bliss. An addiction that makes surfers take a beating & come back for more.

Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula reaches out from the northwest region of the country, separated from the mainland by the Gulf of Nicoya.

With a long coastline and many remote uncrowded beaches, it’s an excellent surfing and road trip destination. Especially because it’s a meteorological sweet spot for generating Pacific ocean swells.

Renting a sweet 4X4 expedition truck from Nomad America that included a rooftop tent for camping, I explored the peninsula driving through jungle rivers and over rough backcountry roads.

Costa Rica Travel Restrictions 2022

Costa Rica is open to most travelers again, including American tourists. However you do need proof of your COVID-19 vaccination(s) or a negative test result before being allowed entry.

Many hotels, attractions, and private tours are open with new health & safety protocols in place, and you still have to follow certain guidelines.

You can find the latest updates on traveling to Costa Rica here.

Get Travel Insurance

Protect yourself from injury, illness, or theft. SafetyWing offers affordable travel insurance that covers COVID-19 too!

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Nosara Costa Rica

My first stop in Nicoya was the small town of Nosara, where I spent a few days just getting back into the groove of surfing, as I hadn’t ridden waves in a while. Surfing is one of my favorite sports, but it’s a lot harder than it looks!

The town of Nosara has become a popular place for expats from the United States and Canada to settle down, claiming a small piece of paradise for themselves.

The surf is decent year round, and a large beach called Playa Guiones boasts plenty of waves for people of all skill levels. I spent 3 days surfing around Nosara, and seriously didn’t want to leave.

I can see why so many expats decide to move here. It’s exactly what you’d expect a lazy jungle surf town to be like. Monkeys in the trees, yoga classes, dirt roads, and a healthy-living vibe.

There are a few different surf schools and shops nearby, like Juan Surfo’s. They provide both board rentals & surf lessons.

Surfing Playa Guiones

Playa Guiones is particularly special because it’s such a large beach. At 4 miles long, you can walk along endlessly and take your pick from different surf spots, so it never feels super overcrowded.

The area is also a national refuge, which means developers can’t build on the beach itself. So from the water, looking back to shore, it just looks like a wall of jungle in front of you.

You can hang out in little homemade “surf-shacks” with roofs made of palm fronds, hiding from the sun to re-hydrate before heading back into the waves for more surfing.

Waves are pretty gentle at Guiones, so it’s a wonderful location for beginners who are learning to surf. It’s a nice wide sandy beach break… no rocks or coral reef to worry about crashing into.

Costa Rica’s 4X4 Coastal Road

After a few days of surfing around Nosara, I loaded up the truck and started driving South along the coast on Route 160. Pulling off down rough and muddy backroads to check out different beaches.

My mission was to drive a particularly rugged off-road track that hugs the coastline from Nosara to Santa Teressa. It can only be accomplished in a proper 4X4 truck, and it’s only possible during the dry season.

This is because there are 3 big rivers you must drive through on this route (Ora, Bongo, and Ario). Fjording rivers in a 4×4 truck is a lot of fun! But it can also be a little hazardous if you don’t know what you’re doing.

How To Drive Across A River

• Know where your vehicle’s “water line” is (maximum depth)
• Walk across the river first, to ensure it isn’t too deep
• Pay attention to the entry & exit points
• Shift the truck into 4×4 Low
• Drive slow and steady through the water, under 10 mph

If the water is too deep, it can flood into the cab, or even drown the engine (a snorkel helps prevent this). Strong currents can completely lift the vehicle off the ground, floating downriver until it reaches shallows again.

The route might not be as straightforward as you think either. The safest path could require driving upriver a bit before crossing, so it’s wise to watch someone else go first if possible.

Camping Along The Way

I love campervan road trips. The ability to stop on the side of a road, a parking area, or at a campground while you travel really gives you a lot of freedom as a photographer. Great for surfing remote breaks too!

The Toyota FJ Cruiser I rented from Nomad America comes equipped with a rooftop tent, off-road suspension & tires, cooking gear, hammocks, folding table & chairs, solar shower, retractable awning, and more.

Renting an expedition truck in Costa Rica isn’t super expensive, especially the smaller 4x4s which start at $55 a day. Plus, no need to spend money on hotels/hostels when you have a tent on your roof!

Split between a group of 2-4 people it’s a great deal, and a true off-the-beaten-path adventure in Costa Rica.

Surfing Santa Teresa

Santa Teresa is another expat surf town on the Coast Rican Pacific coast. It’s a bit more crowded than Nosara/Guiones, but still a great place to ride some waves.

While not nearly as big as the surf town mecca of Tamarindo in the North, Santa Teresa has been growing and is popular with backpackers. Proper hotels and B&Bs have sprung up too.

If you’re a surfer, or want to learn, it’s a fun place to hang out for a few days.

There are two main beaches in Santa Teresa, Playa Carmen and Playa Santa Teresa. Popular surf breaks in the area include Suck Rock and La Lora.

Costa Rica’s Surf Season

The rainy season on the Nicoya Peninsula is August – November, when many surf schools are closed. Early December is a great time to visit, as it’s not so crowded with tourists yet. After Christmas tourism starts to pick up, and clean consistent surf can be had from December – April.

How To Get There

Car

If you’re coming from San Jose, there are two main routes for visiting the Nicoya Peninsula. You can drive around the Gulf Of Nicoya on Route 18, which takes about 5 hours.

Or you can take the Punta Arenas Ferry across the water to Nicoya, and then drive North along the coast. The 4×4 coastal road from Nosara to Santa Teresa takes about 3 hours, provided you don’t get lost (which is easy to do).

Bus

There’s a daily bus to Nosara from San Jose at 5:30am departing from the intersection of Avenida 5 and Calles 14/16 (Alfaro Terminal). Another option is to take one of the more frequent buses to the Nicoya Peninsula, then change to another for Nosara. More details here.

Where To Stay In Nicoya

Renting a truck from Nomad America allowed me to camp for most of the trip, occasionally stopping at a guest house for a hot shower. However if camping isn’t for you, here are some other options:

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Mamma Rosa
I spent one night here to take advantage of AC, wifi, and a hot shower. It’s location is perfect, with a trail directly to the beach.

Check Prices / Read Reviews
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Salina Santa Teresa
This is a sweet looking hostel right next to the beach, quirky design. Here you’ll find Surfboard rentals, surf lessons, yoga and more.

Check Prices / Read Reviews
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Costa Rican Surfing Paradise

Basically road tripping down the coast of Nicoya Peninsula is an awesome surfing adventure, and won’t break the bank either. Especially if you team up with others to rent an expedition truck with a roof-top tent.

I honestly felt like I was was driving around Jurassic Park in that thing, waiting for a T-Rex to burst out of the jungle and chase me.

Bouncing around on rough Costa Rican back roads, powering through mud holes, and exploring every hidden beach I could find! ★

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READ MORE COSTA RICA TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my guide on surfing in Costa Rica! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:

• How Much Does Costa Rica Cost?
• Hiking Corcovado National Park
• Fairytale Magic At Rio Celeste Waterfall
• Tips For Visiting Monteverde Costa Rica

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Have any questions about surfing in Costa Rica? Are you planning a trip? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Studying Spanish in Guatemala

San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala

While traveling through Guatemala I spent 3 weeks taking Spanish classes and staying with a local family on Lake Atitlan. Here’s a rundown of my experience.

Guatemala is one of the best countries in the world to visit if you’d like to learn Spanish. It’s not too far from the United States, classes are inexpensive, and locals naturally speak slowly without using too much slang.

Plus, if you’d like to learn Spanish fast, there’s no better way then to be totally immersed in the culture & language for an extended period of time.

I decided to study in the town of San Pedro La Laguna on Lake Atitlan, located in the Guatemalan Highlands of the Sierra Madre mountains.

This massive lake is surrounded by volcanoes, colorful wildflowers, and traditional Maya villages. A picture perfect setting to learn Spanish.

Beautiful Lake Atitlan

My Home for 3 Weeks

Spanish School In Guatemala

I went to Cooperative School San Pedro on Lake Atitlan (Lago de Atitlan). It’s a true cooperative started by a group of experienced Spanish teachers who believe they have a responsibility to their community.

In general it’s recommended to take at least 3 weeks of Spanish classes to get a basic grasp on the language. You can choose between 3-6 hours of instruction per day, either morning or afternoon classes.

Homestays are available or you can find your own accommodation.

I paid $205 USD per week for 4 hours of class per day, 5 days per week, which also included my homestay plus 3 meals a day. It was a great deal!

Lake Atitlan has a laid-back hippy vibe, and the landscape around the lake is breathtaking with many outdoor activities nearby. However Antigua & Quetzaltenango (Xela) are also popular towns for learning Spanish.

Xela is a larger city, while Antigua is a bit more touristy.

Friends of mine have recommended ICA Spanish School in Xela and Antigua Plaza School in Antigua if you’re looking to stay there instead.

Spanish Class with Flori

Typical Day At Class

There are a few different options for class schedules, however I choose 4 hours of one-on-one Spanish instruction per day, five days a week. My teacher was Flori, a local woman who’s been teaching for years.

She always seemed upbeat and excited to teach as we sat in the shade overlooking Lake Atitlan.

After a general evaluation of my Spanish skills (almost non-existent in my case), Flori gave me a refresher course on rules of Spanish and helped improve my vocabulary using fun games and written exercises.

There were homework assignments every night too…

My Spanish quickly improved with regular daily instruction, and I was finally able to communicate with my Guatemalan host family and other locals.

Three weeks of class wasn’t enough to become fluent, but traveling through Central America was MUCH easier because I could understand a lot more and make myself understood.

Even though I probably sounded like a 5 year old!

Guatemalan Homestay

Local Maya Host Family

The Homestay Experience

While taking Spanish school in Guatemala I stayed with the Bixcul-Pichilla family in their small two-story cinderblock home nestled at the bottom of Volcano San Pedro.

It was super difficult to communicate at first, as they don’t speak any English. Only Tzujill (a local Mayan language) & some Spanish.

I had my own bedroom, and the family of 5 shared 3 others. We also had a basic kitchen and open-air courtyard. Living this way was an eye-opening experience for me, very different from the “comfortable” American lifestyle I’m used to.

There was a bathroom in the courtyard, and a sink area used for washing clothes, cleaning dishes, brushing teeth, shaving — pretty much everything.

Water was delivered via pipes once or twice a week, where it’s stored in drums for later use. Occasionally it would run out if we used too much.

Climbing San Pedro Volcano

Traditional Wooden Canoe

Activities Nearby

Like I mentioned earlier, the Lake Atitlan area is full of cool things to do. So when I got sick of trying to memorize new Spanish words, I’d take a break and get outside for a Guatemalan adventure!

Volcano Hikes

Lake Atitlan is surrounded by volcanoes. Hiking these is a great way to get some exercise and capture epic photos of the landscape. Two of the most popular hikes are Volcano San Pedro and La Nariz de Indio.

Lake Kayaking

Rent a kayak and explore Lake Atitlan up-close. Or if you’re feeling REALLY adventurous, find a local fisherman willing to rent out his traditional wooden canoe. They aren’t easy to navigate!

Scuba Diving

Yes, you can go scuba diving under the lake here, and apparently there’s interesting stuff to see. Like freshwater crabs, underwater volcanic hot-vents, and flooded hotels. ATI Divers is located in the town of Santa Cruz.

Coffee Tours

Coffee is a big deal in Guatemala, and the nutrient-rich volcanic slopes around Lake Atitlan are covered in coffee farms. A coffee tour allows you to experience the fascinating coffee production process from start to finish.

Maya Villages

There are 12 Maya villages spread out around the shores of Lake Atitlan, with many only accessible by boat or on foot. My favorites were Santiago, San Juan, and San Marcos. Walk the cobblestone streets, visit old churches, watch a local basketball game, and experience some Maya culture.

Community Outreach

Many of the Spanish schools in San Pedro give back to the community with social aid projects, and you can volunteer to help out by bringing food or building supplies to poor local families in need.

Church in San Pedro la Laguna

Santiago Streets

Tips & Advice For Studying Spanish

Panajachel is the main transportation hub for the Lake Atitlan area. A bus from Guatemala City to Panajachel takes 3-4 hours. Once at the lake, the best way to travel from village to village is by lancha (boat taxi). Prices vary, but are generally around 15-25q ($2-3 USD).

The temperature around Lago Atitlan fluctuates between 50 – 80 degrees (F), so it can get chilly at night. Larger towns like Panajachel & San Pedro have ATMs, but not all of them do.

When picking a Spanish school in Guatemala, keep a lookout for schools that funnel money into social aid projects for the local community. I’d also recommend staying in a homestay for the same reason, that money goes a long way towards improving the lives of your host family.

For additional recommendations, talk to people who’ve actually attended the school you are interested in. Search travel blogs or online forums like Lonely Planet to read reviews of other schools. ★

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Location:

San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala

Spanish School:

Cooperative School San Pedro

Total Cost:

$90 – $225 USD per week depending on hours/homestay

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

Recommended Reading: Lonely Planet Guatemala
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Golfito, Costa Rica

Treading carefully with rubber boots is what saved me. A venomous pitviper lay curled up and ready to strike, camouflaged along the muddy trail I was hiking.

Piedras Blancas National Park is tucked away in the South-West corner of Costa Rica. It protects rain-forest, beaches, and wildlife along the Golfo Dulce (or sweet gulf) — an inlet attached to the Pacific Ocean.

I was staying at Playa Nicuesa Lodge, a remote eco-friendly place hidden within the National Park itself and only accessible by boat.

The lodge is completely off the grid, powered by solar panels and a bio-diesel generator. I was pretty excited to sleep in the middle of a highly active and beautiful rainforest surrounded by nature for a few days.

Wildlife In Costa Rica

Behind the lodge there is a network of trails winding their way through the park. As I was here to photograph some wildlife, I geared up and headed into the wilderness on my own.

If you’ve never been hiking through a rainforest, you may not realize just how dark it can be under the canopy during the day.

Foliage here grows fast and thick in this tropical environment — blocking out most of the sunlight from above.

The darkness can make it difficult to see what’s on the trail in front of you…

Snakes Everywhere!

The Hog-Nosed Pitviper I almost stepped on was only the first of many snakes I ran across in Piedras Blancas National Park. While it may look intimidating, hiking with tall rubber jungle boots (provided by the lodge) will almost always protect you against getting bitten.

Unlike in the movies, snakes are usually scared of people too.

Unless you actually step on one, chances are they won’t attack. They’d much rather slither away or ignore you completely. But that doesn’t mean you should let your guard down.

The snake in my photo below is a Fer De Lance, Costa Rica’s most dangerous, responsible for up to 46% of snakebites in the country.

If not treated, venom from its bite is powerful enough to shut down kidneys, rot skin tissue, and cause bleeding from the eyes and mouth. One of the few snakes in the world that can kill a human.

Nature Walks After Dark

Often the best time to seek wildlife in Costa Rica is after the sun sets. Many animals living in a rainforest are more active at night.

Knowing this, nature guide (and former Amazing Race Latin America contestant) Manfred Céspedes took me on evening stroll to hunt for critters in the darkness.

What did we find? More snakes of course!

To search for wildlife at night, you need to keep quiet and scan the area with a flashlight. The beam will reflect off the eyes of any animals that might be hiding in the dark, betraying their location.

It’s how I spotted this large Boa wrapped around a branch.

Farming Chocolate

Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula used to be an important area for Cacao farming. Cacao seeds form the basic ingredient used to produce chocolate.

At one time the cacao beans were even used as currency.

However a blight of fungus destroyed a majority of Costa Rica’s cacao trees in the 1970’s.

Remains of old farms still exist in ruins though — the decrepit buildings now re-taken by the jungle. This particular abandoned shack provides temporary shelter for wild cats roaming the area, as well as a cozy home for bats!

Piedras Blancas National Park

Over the course of 2 days at Playa Nicuesa I certainly saw my share of wildlife in the reserve. This included frogs, snakes, bats, scarlet macaws, peccaries (wild pigs), Jesus Christ lizards, coatis, toucans, howler monkeys, and dolphins.

Falling asleep (and waking up) with the doors and windows to my room open, completely surrounded by the sounds of these animals and insects is always a fun experience.

With a net surrounding the bed, I didn’t have to worry about bugs, and could enjoy the music of the jungle.

Kayaking The Mangroves

One morning I went kayaking through the estuary and mangroves nearby. Tomas, a local who’s been living on the land here for over 60 years, took us by boat up through the mangroves, pointing out snakes and birds along the way.

He grew up hunting this wilderness for food, but these days he works as a guide protecting the animals while also teaching visitors.

We launched our kayaks up river and made our way back towards the ocean with the current, listening to the swamp as it burped up methane bubbles on either side.

Colorful crabs would scurry away into their mud burrows as we passed.

Reconnect With Nature

Back at the lodge I took a yoga class on the edge of the water as afternoon rains began. My instructor Molly tried to improve my flexibility and balance with stretching and breathing techniques while we listened to the sound of waves crashing on the beach.

The abundance of nature, secluded beaches, and pristine rainforest made me want to stay here for months, not days. It’s very peaceful and relaxing.

At night we walked out to the pier and watched glowing florescent blue bioluminescent algae materialize in the water around fish as they swam beneath our feet.

Lightning from far-away storms flashed across the sky in the distance.

Magic Of Costa Rica

Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula is one of the few locations I’ve traveled that absolutely astonished me with the sheer amount of beauty and diversity available in such a small area.

Witness fascinating animals in their natural habitat, get some exercise, and embrace the outdoors in a tropical setting. It really has it all.

I thoroughly enjoyed my time exploring Pedras Blancas National Park. Especially discovering all these cool snakes I’d never seen before! ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Tortuguero, Costa Rica

Rainforest covered mountains stretched out into the distance. My small single-engine plane began its descent towards a sliver of runway in the middle of all the green.

I was on my way to Tortuguero National Park in Costa Rica. A remote area of wilderness only accessible by boat or aircraft. Despite its out-of-the-way location, it’s the country’s 3rd most visited park.

We landed, I grabbed my bag, and strolled over to a water-taxi waiting along the canal nearby. Waterways and canals weave their way throughout Tortuguero — making boats the main method of transportation here.

Costa Rica Travel Restrictions 2021

Costa Rica is open to most travelers again, including American tourists. However you do need proof of your COVID-19 vaccination(s) or a negative test result before being allowed entry.

Many hotels, attractions, and private tours are open with new health & safety protocols in place, and you still have to follow certain guidelines.

You can find the latest updates on traveling to Costa Rica here.

Get Travel Insurance

Protect yourself from injury, illness, or theft. SafetyWing offers affordable travel insurance that covers COVID-19 too!

Click For Details

Visiting the Jungle

Our boat slowly puttered through Tortuguero Town. With colorful homes constructed right on the edge of the water, most residents can swim in their front yard. My destination was Evergreen Lodge, comfortable and environmentally friendly cabins located on the edge of the National Park.

There’s a network of pristine rainforest trails behind the property, allowing guests to look for wildlife. Which is exactly what I did as soon as I arrived.

The path was lined with ancient trees rising into the sky searching for water & sunlight while vines and other vegetation filled in any gaps. Parts of the trail include narrow suspension bridges that hang above tropical swampland.

Keep Your Eyes Peeled

It was on these twisting trails that I was lucky to spot one of my favorite creatures, a tiny Strawberry Poison Dart Frog. At only a few centimeters long, these frogs can be pretty difficult to find under thick jungle canopy that blocks the sunlight above.

However this particular one happened to jump from the trail into a pile of leaves as I approached, the sudden movement giving it away. I managed to get a few quick shots before it disappeared again into the underbrush.

Colorful dart frogs secreet toxins from their skin as a defense mechanism.

In fact the reason they’re called dart frogs is because indigenous groups would coat blowdarts with the poison for hunting. So don’t eat this strawberry…

Monkey Business

Tortuguero National Park is home to 3 species of monkeys, and I saw them all. Howler monkeys hoot & holler from the treetops like imaginary monsters from your worst nightmares. They work great as natural alarm clocks!

But in reality these animals aren’t as scary as they sound.

Spider monkeys and White-faced Capuchins also call the area home.

Every evening a large family of Capuchins would swing through the treetops around the cabins on the hunt for food. If you happen to be eating outside, and not paying attention, it’s possible to lose your meal! These furry critters are smart.

Touring the Canals

In the afternoon I joined local guides Michael & Eddie for a boat trip through the water canals that make up Tortuguero. As we stopped at a dock to pay the park entrance fee, a giant male green iguana could be seen on shore.

A few meters away from the iguana, a baby crocodile was sunning itself on a downed tree.

We weren’t even in the park yet and I was spotting animals all over the place!

Armed with a pair of Swarovski CL Pocket binoculars, I was able to easily spot colorful tropical birds like the Keel-Billed Toucan and endangered Green Macaw perched high in the trees along the edge of the water.

Animals Everywhere

What else did I spy on the 2 hour safari trip through Tortuguero? All kinds of birds, like the Snowy Egret, Bare-Throated Tiger Heron, and Anhinga. We found a few speckled Caimans (in the crocodile family) and a Black River Turtle too.

Along with all the wildlife, simply cruising slowly through the jungle canals listening to the animals was very peaceful and relaxing.

Back at the lodge I feel into a deep sleep as powerful evening rains poured down over my cabin. They don’t call it a rainforest for nothing!

Sea Turtle Surprise

The most popular reason to visit Tortuguero National Park is an army of Green Sea Turtles that lay their eggs on the black sand beaches each year. However most of the baby turtles hatch in September & October.

As this was early December, I was too late to witness babies running for the ocean. Or so I thought…

Before I caught my flight out in the morning, Henry from Evergreen asked if I’d like to join him to search for any delayed hatchlings. With his 16 years of wildlife guiding experience, we might just have a chance.

After an hour of searching old nests with him, we found some. A sea turtle can lay about 100 eggs in a “clutch”, and this particular nest had 3 stragglers. I watched them run awkwardly through the sand into waves as the morning sun rose.

A wonderful end to my Tortuguero wildlife experience in Costa Rica. ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Darien Province, Panama

The Darien Gap is a remote, road-less swath of jungle on the border of Panama & Colombia. Known as a smuggling corridor between the two countries, it’s rarely seen by outsiders.

When asked what my favorite experiences are after 10-years of world travel, I usually describe camping on an erupting volcano in Guatemala, trekking through Afghanistan, or my journey into the remote Darien Gap.

The Darien has an almost mythical quality to it — a mysterious region full of exotic plants, rare wildlife, indigenous people, and dangerous paramilitary groups. It sits on the border between Panama and Colombia.

Largely untouched by the modern world, the Darien is one of the least visited places on the planet.

In the Fall of 2011 I spent 5 days exploring the Darien Gap with a friend. Cutting our way through this formidable wilderness with a machete to discover if these myths were true.

I hope my photos give you a fascinating glimpse into this unique part of Latin America.

End Of The Road

This simple footbridge in the town of Yaviza marks the only break in a 29,000 mile (48,000 km) stretch of road known as the Pan-American Highway, reaching down from Alaska to Argentina. This 100 mile section of impassible jungle between Central & South America is called the Darien Gap.

There are no roads that span the jungle here, only footpaths. While a handful of expeditions have crossed by land vehicles, it’s not something most people can accomplish unless you have well-financed team.

For those interested in driving their through from Panama to South America, you’d have to ship your vehicle across the ocean from Panama City to the town of Turbo, Colombia via cargo ship.

River Transportation In The Darien

Most of the Darien rainforest is roadless, so long Piragua canoes like this are the primary mode of transportation. Locals with some money are able to afford an outboard motor for it. But most propel themselves along with hand-made wooden paddles — which can be difficult due to strong river currents.

Traditional Emberá Home

The Emberá People build their homes up on stilts to protect against animals and flooding. We passed many such homes on our way through the region.

The log ladder up to the main level serves two purposes. Along with providing access to the home, if the notches are facing out visitors are welcome — if they are rolled under it means “do not disturb”. I thought that was pretty cool!

Panama Senafront Base

These guys may look like military soldiers, but technically they are Panama’s elite border police called Senafront. Drug smugglers use the Darien to transport their goods over the border from Colombia. Human trafficking is a popular activity too.

Because of all the criminal activity, access to most of the Darien without Senafront’s explicit permission is impossible. Before I could explore the Darien, I needed to request permission from Senafront in Panama City, and they informed me on how far I could travel into the jungle.

The situation is always changing, depending on what’s going on at the time. Sometimes the Darien is completely closed off to visitors, or certain locations are off-limits.

Poisonous Jungle Frogs

The Darien is home to many different species of poison frogs. While I’m not sure, this is possibly a Harlequin Toad — also known as a clown frog. The scientific name is Atelopus Varius. If that’s what it is, these frogs were thought to be extinct in Panama! Any frog experts out there?

The jungle gets crazy loud at night, when most of these creatures come out. If you think you’re going to have a peaceful night sleeping in the jungle, you’re dead wrong! It’s like a symphony of wildlife.

Darien National Park

The Darien National Park and biosphere has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981. With proper permissions you can go hiking and camping inside, as we did.

It doesn’t get many visitors these days though, so a machete is useful for clearing the many overgrown trails.

Jungle Scorpion

There are all kinds of creatures in the Darien jungle that can be dangerous. Like this black scorpion we found hiking.

The area is also home to painful fire ants, deadly fer-de-lance snakes, jaguars, bot flies which lay eggs under your skin, wild pigs, and other animals you probably don’t want to meet.

Chunga Palm Tree

This tree does not like to be hugged. You’ve been warned, hippies! The Chunga Palm (also called Black Palm) is found throughout the rainforests of the Darien. Their long, very sharp, bacteria-covered spines can be pretty nasty if you’re not careful. Contracting a horrible infection in the middle of the jungle is not recommended.

Plantain Banana Farm

Many indigenous people who live in the Darien earn money growing plantain bananas, which are then shipped upriver to Yaviza and eventually sold in Panama City.

This is a relatively new development though, as money was not a priority until hunting was banned in the National Park. Now they need to pay for their food because they can’t hunt for it.

Indigenous Tribes Of The Region

This girl came out in the rain to say hello with some other kids as we stopped at a riverside security checkpoint in the Wounaan village of Vista Alegre. A few minutes after this photo was taken, the kids helped me save our canoe from floating down the river with all my gear inside…

Dangerous FARC Guerrillas

Meet Gilberto Torres Muñetón aka “The Calf” a commander of the notorious Colombian FARC anti-government guerrillas. Wanted for drug trafficking, arms smuggling, kidnappings, and a bombing that killed 80 people along the border of Panama & Colombia. We saw quite a few of these wanted posters.

Security Checkpoints

Private Wilson here guards a Senafront checkpoint on the road into the Darien. The Panamanian Government is trying to re-claim the jungle from smugglers, bandits, and paramilitary groups. So there are plenty of camouflage uniforms & machine guns around.

Fishing The Turia River

One day our Kuna guide Isaac took us hand-line fishing on the Turia River outside the village of El Real. This was our catch that afternoon, some of which we proceeded to cook up and eat for dinner. The rivers are absolutely full of fish! Throw your line in and 1 or 2 minutes later something was attached to it.

Kuna Indian Woman

This is Mariana, she stopped by to say hello along with her husband. They showed off some of their handicrafts, like this colorful Mola bag. The Kuna are just one of 3 major indigenous groups that call the Darien jungle home. The others are called the Embera and the Wounan.

Darien Gap Flooding

Flooding is a big problem during the rainy season in Darien Province. I experienced this first-hand when trying to leave the area. A river broke its bank and submerged the road, forcing everyone to pay for boat rides over to the next dry section of land about 300 yards away.

Plantain Banana Farmers

The Darien isn’t only populated with indigenous people. Panamanians and Colombians have moved into the area to start plantain banana farms, cattle ranches, and logging operations. This local farmer ended up hitchhiking with us in the back of a truck, his horse trotting along behind.

Jungle Consumption

The heat, humidity, and plant life of a rainforest will destroy anything in its path. Like this old house. Sunlight is prime real estate, and everyone (and everything) wants in on the action. If left alone this building would quickly get eaten-up by the jungle.

Swollen Turia River

This is the mighty Turia River, a main artery of transportation in the Darien Gap. The river is dark & swollen from heavy October rains. We slowly motored up the river for 5 hours heading to the village of Boca de Cupe, where I was soon expelled by Senafront soldiers who feared for my safety.

Canoe Ride In The Rain

Heading back to the village in a Piragua canoe after a rainy afternoon of fishing. This is my guide’s son in the front of the boat.

The relaxed pace of life, interesting things to see, and complete lack of tourism are why Panama’s Darien Gap has been one of my most memorable experiences to date. ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Costa Rica Photography

Costa Rica is a vibrant country full of incredible natural beauty like waterfalls, jungles, volcanoes, and wildlife. It provides many opportunities for stunning photography!

After exploring Costa Rica multiple times over the past 10-years, the country has seduced me with her charms. I secretly want to keep her all to myself… but that would be selfish!

So I’ve reluctantly decided to share her with you.

The photography opportunities in Costa Rica are fantastic, and once you see these photos you’ll know exactly why I fell in love with this fascinating Central American country.

From pristine cloud forests, remote beaches, exotic wildlife and giant volcanoes — Cost Rica is extremely diverse, with a little bit of everything for the adventurous traveler or photographer.

Below you’ll find travel photography from my adventures while driving around Costa Rica.

I hope my Costa Rica photography inspires you to visit this wonderful place. Pura Vida!

Costa Rica Travel Restrictions 2022

Costa Rica is open to most travelers again, including American tourists. However you do need proof of your COVID-19 vaccination(s) or a negative test result before being allowed entry.

Many hotels, attractions, and private tours are open with new health & safety protocols in place, and you still have to follow certain guidelines.

You can find the latest updates on traveling to Costa Rica here.

Get Travel Insurance

Protect yourself from injury, illness, or theft. SafetyWing offers affordable travel insurance that covers COVID-19 too!

Click For Details

Corcovado National Park

Costa Rica’s largest park is also its most dazzling. In a country already overrun by lush greenery, the lowland tropical rain forests of Corcovado National Park is like the natural world turned up to eleven. National Geographic labelled the Osa Peninsula “the most biologically intense place on Earth in terms of biodiversity”.

While you used to be able to explore it without a guide, that’s no longer the case since 2014. The beaches are stunningly beautiful and remote, the forests rustle with life – and rivers churn with crocodiles, caimans and even sharks. Exploring this landscape is quite an adventure!

Monteverde Cloud Forest

Monteverde (“Green Mountain”) is one of a number of cloud forests you can enjoy in Costa Rica. They’re eerie, foggy places (and near-permanently blanketed in cloud, hence the name), with every branch and trunk thickly carpeted in moss and constantly dripping with water.

You’ll find Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve in the northwest of Costa Rica, along the edge of the Tilaran mountain chain, and it’s well worth a trip. Keep an eye open for a flash of the piercing blue-green plumage of the Queztal, a bird once revered as a god by the Aztecs.

Volcanoes Of Costa Rica

Costa Rica’s mountainsides are alive in more ways than one. Due to its position along the Ring Of Fire, the country is dotted with hundreds of extinct volcanoes – and a few that are very much active. The Central Volcanic Range is dominated by Poas (above), Barva, Irazu, and Turrialba.

Barva last erupted 8,000 years ago, Irazu in 1994, Turrialba in 2016 – and Poas is currently closed for visitors because it exploded in April 2017. So this whole landscape is still under construction — the Earth sure takes it’s time!

Massive Crocodiles

Nope, that’s not a log. Crocodiles are a common sight along the banks of Costa Rica’s coastal rivers, and croc attacks on humans do happen from time to time. One of the best (and safest) places to spot these prehistoric animals is from a bridge over the Tarcoles River.

However please resist the temptation to throw food to them – illegal crocodile feeding is cited as the main reason for crocs encroaching on human territory (or vice versa, depending on how you see things).

Beautiful Costa Rica Beaches

If a country’s wealth is counted in beaches, Costa Rica is very well-named. Every tropical cliche is here – glowing golden-white sand, palm trees swaying in the sea breeze, warm azure water lapping at your ankles.

There’s Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean side, there’s Corcovado’s rugged Pacific shoreline, and there’s another 300 ridiculously beautiful beaches to explore on both sides of the country. Many of these beaches offer great surfing opportunities too! The remote beaches along Costa Rica’s Nicoya Peninsula were some of my favorites.

Colorful Flora In Costa Rica

There’s a reason this country has the highest percentage of protected areas in the world. They’re protecting 9000 species of flowering plants and 800 species of fern – more varieties and shades of color than can be found in the whole of the United States, in an area smaller than Kansas.

You’ll find the densest biodiversity in its six types of forest: tropical rainforest (more on that below), cloud forest (see Monteverde, above), tropical dry forest, mangroves, riparian (hugging the banks of waterways) and lowland rainforests, where Costa Rica’s tallest trees can be found.

Outdoor Activities

With all the stunning views on offer, you’d assume Costa Rica is a great place to camp and hike, and you’d be right – with a few caveats. Don’t expect to be able to turn up and camp anywhere, as many protected beaches often regulate or simply prohibit camping. The same goes for off-trail walking.

Planning ahead and relying on local advice is a must. Beyond that, be prepared for all weather conditions including torrential rain, particularly if you’re arriving in the winter months. As you can see, I went for the “keep off the ground” option – always a good move to avoid jungle creatures who like to crawl (or slither) down there…

Costa Rican Rain Forests

These aren’t like forests you’ve ever seen. The combination of extremely tall trees and year-round heavy rainfall and/or cloud cover means that Costa Rica’s rainforests provide an unbroken protective canopy for birds, animals and plants that don’t require a lot of sunlight.

Worldwide, tropical rainforests contain over two-thirds of animal & plant species on the planet – and over 4% can be found right here in Costa Rica. Take a walking guide when you go – not just to avoid getting lost, but because he or she will explain what you’re looking at, so you don’t miss a single marvelous thing.

A Bird Watching Paradise

Hummingbirds flit from flower to flower, even in the urbanized Central Valley. Seventeen species of parrot, including the dazzling Scarlet Macaw, chatter from the topmost branches. Long-legged herons and shearwaters stalk the shoreline.

There are over 900 species of bird in Costa Rica (as much as in the entire United States) – and a lot of the tourist industry is geared up for both casual and serious birdwatching. Your best bet is the Osa Peninsula, home of the Corcovado National Park, which contains 350 varieties alone.

Rare Endangered Jungle Creatures

Looking like low-budget cross between a pig and an elephant, the Baird’s Tapir (above) is a herbivore, and one of just five species of tapir in the world. Its trunk – more correctly its proboscis – is highly flexible, allowing it to grab low foliage and explore interesting smells high in the air.

It’s a weird-looking creature – but in this biodiversity-mad country, weirdness is the norm. From the self-explanatory Strawberry Poison Dart Frog to the gold silk threads of the Golden Orb Weaver, from apathetic sloths to mini-leopards called ocelots, Costa Rica definitely has its own rulebook for fauna. Expect the unexpected.

Adventure Activities

I’m a huge fan of Costa Rica’s whitewater rafting – but it’s far from the only adventure travel activity on offer. In some of the National Parks you’ll find zip-lining (as part of canopy tours), calmer kayak or canoe trips, or even rapelling down cliffs & waterfalls.

Horseback riding is a great way to go sightseeing, both in the jungle or on the beaches. Costa Rica is well known for it’s great surfing, kitesurfing and windsurfing too. Underwater activities are also fantastic, with plenty of snorkeling and scuba diving opportunities. Cocos Island has some awesome hammerhead shark diving!

Bio-diverse Costa Rican Wildlife

If you’re the type to jot down every time you see a new animal or bird, you’re going to need a bigger notebook for Costa Rica. Much bigger. The wilds contain over 500,000 species, formed by geography – as part of the land-bridge between North America and South America, this is where the species of two worlds intermingled for millions of years.

This huge biodiversity is fueled by twelve very distinct climatic zones. It’s the research and development wing of the natural world – and most of the prototypes are still alive and well (yet threatened), making it the most biodiverse country on the planet.

Magical Waterfalls In Costa Rica

If you love beautiful waterfalls, Costa Rica is a waterfall hunter’s paradise. Some of my favorite are the towering 300 foot tall cascades of Bajos del Toro, and the unreal-looking turquoise blue pools at Rio Celeste Waterfall. The wet jungle landscapes provide the perfect backdrop for some epic waterfalls.

If you’re more adventurous, some even have rope swings and jumping platforms! Just make sure to ask (or watch) locals to ensure the pools below are deep enough to jump into. Shallow pools and strong currents can be a real danger at some waterfalls. ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Navigating the Darien’s Rio Turia

Boca de Cupe, Panama

After traveling through the Darien Gap by piragua canoe to visit a remote jungle village, I was forced to leave when security forces kicked me out.

The Darien is a swath of roadless wilderness between Panama & Colombia that’s full of mystery & intrigue. For years it’s been known as a haven for criminals, drug smugglers, and anti-government guerrilla groups.

Understandably most travelers decide to avoid the area, sailing around or flying over it instead.

But after speaking with a few individuals who had recently made the journey inside, I determined that it was safe enough to attempt a trip. Panama’s elite border security force Senafront has built up a strong presence in much of the region.

While the Darien Gap is by no means danger-free, it’s safer than it was just a few years ago.

My morning started in the village of El Real. I said goodbye to my Brazilian friend Gabriel as he hitched a ride to Yaviza via canoe to catch a local bus back to Panama City.

Unfortunately he did not have the proper permissions to continue further with me.

From here on it would just be myself and Isaac — a local guide from the Kuna indigenous tribe.

Indigenous Stilt Homes Along the River

Traveling Through the Darien Jungle

We began loading our skinny 25-foot long wooden piragua canoe with gas & supplies for the 5 hour trip up the Turia River to the village of Boca de Cupe. The simple craft used a small outboard motor to power us through the river’s current.

Of course it was raining when we finally pulled out onto the water. October is the heart of the rainy season here.

Rain had been a constant companion while trekking through the wilderness of Darien National Park for the past 3 days. We were well accustomed to it at this point.

Our piragua cut through the wet & humid air making it’s way deeper into the jungle over a highway of silty brown water.

Traditional thatched-roof homes built by the Emberá people were perched on stilts along the riverbank.

Local indigenous families floated past us in their own piraguas loaded full of plantain bananas, the primary cash crop in this remote region of the world.

Wounaan Children of Vista Alegre

Police Checkpoints

We were forced to stop at Vista Alegre, a small Wounaan tribal village with a riverside security checkpoint. It was a simple military bunker made from sandbags and camouflage netting.

Hard looking men with automatic weapons took my passport and letter of permission, trying to decide what to do with me.

A posse of local Wounaan children came out to inspect me along with the soldiers — gringos are a rarity in these parts.

It was then that some children noticed my piragua canoe had broken loose from the dock, and was quickly floating down the swollen Turia river without us! 8O

We raced through the mud while one boy actually jumped into the swift moving river and saved the boat (and all my gear) before it was lost.

After pulling it back upstream and securing it to a dock, the soldiers finally told me that we’d been approved and would be allowed to continue on our journey.

Senafront Soldiers in the Darien Gap

Town of Boca de Cupe

For 5 long hours we slowly pushed our way up the winding Rio Turia in the pouring rain — passing by the villages of Unión de Chocó, Yape, and Capeti. But my discomfort was lessened as I listened to the songs of exotic birds & searched along the river’s muddy banks for Caimans (part of the alligator/crocodile family).

Eventually our destination came into view.

The town of Boca de Cupe is located on the Turia River, about 20 miles from the Colombian border. Some 30% of it’s inhabitants are Colombian refugees.

In the 1900’s Boca de Cupe was an integral part of the British-owned Cana gold mines, where ore was transported through the jungle via single-gage railway before getting shipped downriver to the coast.

But prior to British control, the Cana mines were owned by the Spanish in the 1700’s. British & French pirates frequently ransacked the very lucrative gold producing area.

Streets of Boca de Cupe

A History of Violence

In more recent times, the area around Boca de Cupe has been a hotbed of Colombian guerrilla activity. There are good reasons why travelers have avoided the Darien Gap region over the last 20 years.

• In 1993 three American missionaries were abducted from a nearby village and later murdered.
• In 1996 twenty armed men & women attacked Boca de Cupe, stole supplies from the health clinic, and kidnapped a local store owner.
• In 1997 the female commander of a M56 Colombian guerrilla force led an attack on the town. They took supplies, money, and weapons after burning the police station to the ground.
• In 2000 the British travelers Tom Hart Dyke & Paul Winder were kidnaped by Colombian FARC guerrillas while searching the Darien jungle for rare orchids. After being held for 9 months deep in the wilderness, they were set free.
• In 2003 National Geographic writer Robert Young Pelton and two others were taken after 4 local indigenous men were murdered in the nearby village of Paya by the AUC paramilitary group. The Americans were eventually released in Colombia a week later.

All these incidents and more began to humiliate the Panamanian government, who eventually stepped up efforts to control their lawless & wild backyard.

These days Boca de Cupe is full of Senafront border soldiers dressed in military fatigues, patrolling the town’s concrete pathways armed with assault rifles.

Soldiers on Patrol

Meeting with the Comandante

We pulled our piragua up to an embankment and began unloading gear as a soldier quietly looked on. When finished, he escorted us through town past dozens of curious onlookers. Time to check in with the Comandante of the Senafront base.

Inside the fortified building I spied a giant .50 caliber machine gun leaning against a wall..

Technically Senafront isn’t a military organization, as Panama’s standing army was dissolved after the 1989 US invasion. Officially they are tasked with protecting the country’s border, and are actually considered police.

But Senafront’s security forces all wear camouflage uniforms, often live deep inside the jungle, carry large automatic weapons, and conduct military-style offensives against Colombia’s guerrilla groups.

Sure, maybe they don’t have the power to invade another country, but they are definitely unlike any other police force I’ve ever seen…

The commander spoke some English, which up to this point had been very rare here inside the Darien. I explained that my plan was to spend the night in Boca de Cupe, and I had all the proper paperwork.

He would make some radio calls to headquarters back in Panama City to confirm.

Reluctantly Leaving Boca de Cupe

Kicked Out of Town!

Isaac and I checked ourselves into a cheap dormitory where I changed and cleaned up. As soon as we went looking for a place to eat, some local “women of the night” quickly found us and wanted to know if we needed any company.

They were obviously amused to have a white guy in town.

We brushed them off and found a cantina that served food. This place was filled with sketchy looking characters. Younger guys with fancy clothes & jewelry that didn’t quite fit this poor & remote jungle town.

Drug smuggling from Colombia to Panama is still very rampant within the Darien… but I couldn’t be sure, and didn’t feel comfortable asking them what they did for work.

After a few $0.60 beers and a $2 meal, it was time to head back to the base. It was there I learned that I would not be allowed to spend the evening in Boca de Cupe. :(

Reason: They were afraid I’d get robbed in the middle of the night.

Unfortunately this meant we must leave town immediately, before the evening river curfew took effect.

A curfew is in place to make it more difficult for drug smugglers & paramilitary groups to operate on the river at night.

There was no talking my way out of this one. After a long & uncomfortable five-hour river journey through the jungle in the pouring rain just to get here, I’d now have to turn around and do it all over again to go back!

We reluctantly loaded our gear into the piragua, fired up the outboard motor, and left the village. The town of Boca de Cupe would ultimately be the furthest I could get inside the notorious Darien Gap.

But I’m happy I went, as it was quite an experience. :D

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Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Book cheap flights on Skyscanner, my favorite airline search engine to find deals. Also read my tips for how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent local apartments on Airbnb ($35 discount!). Read my post for tips on booking cheap hotels.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Modern Panama City Skyline

Panama City, Panama

Panama City is not like other cities in Central America. A unique mixture of modern skyscrapers and crumbling neighborhoods full of history.

I spent a couple months living in Panama City, giving me plenty of time to explore it’s diverse streets. Central America’s biggest metropolitan area is growing rapidly. It’s often called “The Miami of the South”. But many of the high-rise skyscrapers you see are actually empty or not yet finished.

The city center has moved a few times over the centuries after pirates like Henry Morgan destroyed it. In the past Panama City was also used as a Spanish base for gold exploration and the conquest of many countries, including Peru in South America.

In 1989 the United States invaded Panama, destroying parts of the city with bombing. The invasion’s aim was to get rid of Panama’s dictator General Manuel Noriega, who had worked for the CIA under President Bush for over 20 years as a paid informant (supporting foreign dictators seems to be a common theme for the United States).

In this photo essay I attempt to reveal the many different sides of Panama City. Enjoy! :)

Beach Front Property

Old Casco Viejo Neighborhood

Panama City Police Force

Diablo Rojo Public Bus

Wildly Popular Panama Lottery

The Presidential Palace

Panama City Fish Market

New Skyscraper Construction

Cathedral Metropolitana Panama City

Panama City Fishing Boats

War-Torn El Chorillo Neighborhood

Squatter Buildings with Character

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources for Panama City” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Book cheap flights on Skyscanner, my favorite airline search engine to find deals. Also read my tips for how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent local apartments on Airbnb ($35 discount!). Read my post for tips on booking cheap hotels.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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Which of the above shots is your favorite & why? Let me know in the comments!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Fishing in the Darien

El Real, Panama

Fishing is a major source of food and income for the indigenous people of Panama’s Darien provence. We joined them in an attempt to catch our dinner.

My buddy Gabriel and I had just finished trekking for a few days through the rainforest in Darien National Park, and were now staying with a local Kuna family in the village of El Real.

The rainy season was in full swing. But after a few days of it, you soon get accustomed to wearing wet clothes all the time.

Hand-line fishing in the rain now sounded like a lot of fun.

So our Kuna guide Isaac, his brother Alberto, and Isaac Jr. handed us a pair of hand-carved wooden paddles for the journey down-river. Our transportation? A Piragua. This traditional wooden canoe had been used in the Darien for hundreds of years.

Crocodiles Like Gringos

Walking down to the dock in the rain, we passed a cantina full of drunk Colombians. It was 2pm. They spied our paddles and called us over to warn against falling into the river. Didn’t we know the water is full of hungry crocodiles?

After displaying our expert piragua paddling skills in an attempt to ease their fears, they unanimously agreed we were goners. They forced us to have a last dance with them before we became crocodile food…

Thanks for the vote of confidence guys.

Transportation on the Turia River

Navigating the Turia River

Piragua canoes are very long and skinny. They tip easily. All my life I’ve been told not to stand up in a canoe because it will tip over. So I was more than a bit nervous attempting to maneuver our craft the traditional indigenous way — standing up.

The water was murky and brown. It seemed impossible to tell how many man-eating crocodiles were lurking under the surface, just waiting for me to make a mistake.

But soon Gabriel and I got the hang of it. We paddled our way down a tributary that would eventually push us out to the mighty Turia river. The rainfall began to increase, but because of the heat, it was very refreshing.

A shower from heaven in the middle of the wilderness, with the smell of rainforest humidity in the air.

Now the Turia river came into view, swollen and moving fast. It’s powerful current propelled us forward. Concentration was needed in order to avoid floating trees and other debris in the water.

Isaac pointed out a favorite fishing spot on the far bank.

Gabriel Waiting for a Bite

Fishing Without A Fishing Pole

The people of the Darien fish with nets or simple spools of fishing line. No one uses fishing rods here. They are expensive and unnecessary. A heavy-duty line, a few lead sinkers, a sharp hook, and wiggling worms are the only tools needed.

So after securing our boat to a tree so we wouldn’t float away in the fast-moving water, we baited our hooks and tried to cast the lines without ripping each other’s eyes out in the process.

This involves whipping the line over your head like a rodeo lasso, releasing at just the right moment in order to reach a good distance.

After many sad & embarrassing attempts, we were eventually able to cast without triggering bouts of hysterical laughter from our Kuna Indian friends.

Catching Fresh Fish

Having Some Trouble…

In the beginning, everyone was catching fish but me. Over and over again they’ed pull them out of the water. This river was absolutely filled with fish! Some were beautiful looking too. Shimmering rainbow colors and fins that moved in a hypnotic sine-wave type fashion.

Suddenly I got my first bite! Firmly setting the hook, I began pulling it in hand over hand…

Damn. More hysterical laughter erupted from the boat as I proudly displayed the 6-inch long monster I’d managed to wrestle on board.

Redeeming My Manhood

I threw the baby fish back into the river, and loaded my hook with a big fat juicy worm. Determined to catch something of value, I whipped the line back out on the water. It wasn’t long before I received another bite!

My excitement grew as I began to real it in.

This was no minnow, I could feel it was big.

Everyone cheered as I finally pulled up a large Macana. This strange looking fish with a constantly waving bottom fin was around 18 inches long. Much more respectable.

I could now return to the village with pride and hold my head high. :D

Catch of the Day!

Into Dark Waters

We tried a few more fishing spots, spending about 3 hours out on the Turia river. It was peaceful and quiet. The rain continued on & off over the course of the afternoon.

Isaac started to pull a new fish into the boat, when suddenly one of our previous catches tried to make a break for it! He flopped out of the wooden canoe in a last-ditch effort to escape…

Trying to grab at the slippery animal before it went under, Isaac inadvertently knocked Gabriel’s pair of $200 sunglasses into the water. Shit.

Isaac quickly jumped into the brown river that reached about neck-high, motioning for Gabriel to join him in the search for his glasses. “We can only be in here for 15 minutes” said Isaac. “After that, crocodiles will come and investigate the splashing”.

I decided to let the two of them search the zero-visibility water without my help. After all, someone needed to have a video camera ready to record their last words.

Keep em’ Coming!

End Of A Good Day

Exactly 15 minutes of nervous underwater searching attempts later, they gave up. Oh well. It was just “stuff” after all. In my opinion, stuff is overrated. Since I began traveling long-term, I’ve been trying to get rid of as much of it as I can.

I’d happily part with fancy sunglasses to experience this adventure. Gabriel agreed.

We headed back in our traditional piragua using a small outboard motor this time. Gas is over $5 a gallon down here, but trying to paddle up the powerful Rio Turia current would have taken us all night.

Returning to the village victorious with a boat full of fish, and all our arms & legs intact, Isaac’s wife fried-up a portion of our catch for dinner that night.

I slung my hammock in a back room, drifting off to sleep with a full belly. ★

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources for El Real, Panama” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Book cheap flights on Skyscanner, my favorite airline search engine to find deals. Also read my tips for how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent local apartments on Airbnb ($35 discount!). Read my post for tips on booking cheap hotels.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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Have you ever fished with a hand-line before? Share your opinion in the comments below!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.