Badakhshan, Afghanistan

I spent 2-weeks exploring the remote mountains of Afghanistan on a backpacking trip. Not your typical vacation destination, but one of my favorite travel experiences to date. Here’s a glimpse of the beauty of Afghanistan.

What comes to mind when you think about Afghanistan? War? Terrorism? Osama Bin Laden? The Taliban? Poppy fields? The Burqa?

While much of Afghanistan is still dangerous — there’s also incredible beauty, hospitality and kindness that doesn’t get reported on there.

It’s far too easy to vilify or write-off an entire nation when you don’t have to look those people in the eyes. People with the same hopes and dreams as you — to simply survive, find happiness and provide for their families.

I was able to experience the positive side of Afghanistan and its wonderful people, up close and personal, during my trip in the summer of 2016 as an American tourist. It’s since become my most memorable travel adventure to date.

Here are some of my favorite photos of people & landscapes from my 100-mile backpacking trip into Afghanistan’s remote and mountainous Wakhan Corridor in Badakhshan Province.

Witness the “other” side of Afghanistan that you don’t see in the news.

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Afghanistan Photo Essay

Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor

The Wakhan is a rugged and wild region of Northeast Afghanistan, part of Badakhshan Province. It’s a narrow piece of land, about 400 km long, surrounded on three sides by Tajikistan, China, and Pakistan.

Two large mountain ranges dominate the area, the Pamir in the North, and the Hindu Kush in the South. The Wakhan Corridor was created by politicians in the 1800’s during the “Great Game” in an attempt to leave a buffer zone between British India and the Russian empire.

Remote Mountain Trekking

During my hiking adventure in Afghanistan we traveled primarily on foot, but I also managed to hitch a ride on a yak for a portion of the route after running into a group of Wakhi men leading their yaks through the mountains.

While they stopped for tea, they let us borrow their yaks, which we led further into the valley — until their owners caught up with us later.

Yaks are the ultimate Eco-friendly 4×4 in Afghanistan, able to climb steep rocky terrain and power through icy cold rivers. There are no trees above 10,000 feet, so locals are forced to trek for 3-days to lower elevations with their animals in order to gather firewood for cooking and warmth.

Afghanistan’s Ancient Silk Road

The Wakhan region in Afghanistan was once part of the ancient silk road, an important trading route connecting China to Europe. Along with silk, horses, and other goods, it was a highway for armies and explorers too. Explorers like Marco Polo who is believed to have passed through here during the 13th century.

Crossing steep mountain passes and high desolate plateaus, passing caravans of yaks and donkeys loaded with goods, spending the night in stone shelters with traveling merchants — I felt like I was getting a glimpse of what the silk road must have been like all those years ago.

READ MORE: 17 Useful Travel Photography Tips

The Many Faces Of Islam

Just like the many different branches of Christianity, there are many different branches of Islam, all with their own beliefs and values. Many people living in Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor are Ismaili Muslims, who practice a moderate form of Islam. They number 25 million worldwide, and despise the Taliban.

Their spiritual leader is the Aga Khan, a successful British businessman and Imam who runs the Aga Khan Development Network, a super important charity organization that improves living conditions and opportunities for the poor in Africa and Central Asia.

Untamed Blue Rivers

The Wakhan River runs through the Wakhan Corridor, fed by the high altitude mountains of the Hindu Kush on the border with Pakistan. It snakes its way through the mountains and is a major lifeline for the people living in this harsh and unforgiving landscape.

The bright blue color of this water is due to reddish hues of the rock formations around it, as well as the crystal clear source (a glacier). Water molecules absorb other colors, like red, more efficiently than blue.

READ MORE: How To Pick A Travel Backpack

Epic Afghanistan Landscapes

When the weather was clear, I was rewarded with incredible views of the mountains like this! The trail was well worn, as it’s used daily by small groups of locals who travel in caravans of yaks or donkeys from settlement to settlement.

The 10 day trek ranged in altitude from 10,000 to 16,000 feet, and we averaged about 10 miles per day of hiking. I began to feel the effects of altitude on my body around 12,000 feet with shortness of breath. At 16,000 feet hiking became even more tiring and difficult.

The Roof Of The World

The Kyrgyz people of Afghanistan are semi-nomadic, moving from valley to valley herding their animals to different grazing pastures depending on the season. They live in cozy yurts made of sheep felt, which can be broken down and transported long distances.

Each settlement consists of 2-3 families living and working together. Originally from the area around Kyrgyzstan, their ancestors were kind of trapped in the Wakhan after the Soviets took over Central Asia, forcibly settled nomadic tribes, and sealed off the silk road route.

READ MORE: How To Visit The Afghan Wakhan

Salty Yak Milk Tea

Both the Wakhi and Kyrgyz people drink large amounts of salty milk tea, called Sheer Chai. It’s served for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Basically, it’s a mix of yak and goat milk, boiled down for hours and dried into a portable block. It’s prepared by adding boiling water, loose-leaf tea, and rock salt.

The salt is great for rehydration at high & dry altitudes — I called it my Afghan Gatorade. It took a while to get used to (salty hot milk anyone?), but by the end of the adventure my body was craving sheer chai for every meal. You can also dissolve raw butter into the tea at breakfast for extra calories.

Ancient Afghan Petroglyphs

Near the end of my 2nd day on the trail, we hiked past a set of ancient petroglyphs scrawled into a dark colored boulder overlooking the valley. My local guide, Yar, couldn’t tell me much about them, other than they think these markings are a few thousand years old.

They depict hunting scenes, men armed with what appear to be bows, as well as large game like ibex and the rare Marco Polo sheep. This was just one of many petroglyphs that dot the landscape in these mountains. They are thought to mark ancient hunting grounds claimed by different tribes.

Schools In Afghanistan

This simple 3 room school in the remote Afghan village of Bozai Gumbaz was built by Greg Mortenson and his Central Asia Institute. You may have heard of Greg before, he’s the author of the best selling novel Three Cups Of Tea, about building schools for girls in Pakistan.

The school at Bozai Gumbaz, where I spent the night playing cards with Afghan army soldiers, was prominent in his 2nd book, Stones To Schools. The next morning a group of boys showed up on donkeys for class. I saw many CAI schools along the road from Eshkashim to Sarhad-e Broghil.

Backcountry Camping In Afghanistan

As a big fan of the outdoors, one of the highlights on this trip was the opportunity to wild camp in the mountains of Afghanistan. Most nights we were able to stay at small Wakhi or Kyrgyz settlements in basic guest huts, but we also camped out in tents a few nights too.

Normally I’m a camping hammock kind of guy, but because I knew there weren’t going to be any trees for most of this trek, I packed my super lightweight Nemo Hornet 2P Tent. It snowed a few times during the journey — in August!

READ MORE: My Complete Travel Gear Guide

As-Salāmu ʿAlaykum

I was constantly greeted with As-salāmu ʿalaykum which means “peace be upon you”. A shorter version of this is just salām. Shaking hands is common, and so is placing your hand on your heart, which simply means your greeting comes from the heart.

Another important term I used during my journey is taschakor, meaning thank you. I always recommend trying to learn 10 of the most used words in a local language before traveling there. In the Afghan Wakhan, most people speak some Dari (Farsi) along with local dialects.

Women In Afghanistan

Many people were asking if I saw women in Afghanistan. Yes I saw women during my trip, but most were extremely shy, especially if I had my camera out. Plus in their culture, talking with strange men is taboo. But shooting portraits of men or kids was not a problem.

Near the border town of Sultan Eshkashim, with a large Sunni population, many women wear a full-length blue burqa that covers their face. In more rural areas of the Wakhan, it’s less strict. Women wear long colorful dresses with a simple headscarf. I was able to say hello and see their faces.

Afghan Shrines & Tombs

I encountered a few ancient burial tombs during my time exploring the Wakhan Corridor. Near the Afghan military outpost of Bozai Gumbaz, there’s a collection of strangely shaped Kyrgyz beehive tombs, along with evidence of Soviet bombing (craters, bomb fragments) from the 1980’s occupation.

At the settlement of Langar, we found a pile of ibex horns marking the burial place of a powerful big man. In Afghanistan, wealthy & powerful men are often called “big men”. It’s a bit like calling someone “boss.” The more animals, land, and wives you have, the “bigger” & more influential you are.

Some Very Rough Roads…

Before I began the 10 day, 100 mile trek through the mountains, I had to hire a 4×4 van to drive me to the last village at the end of the road. We passed a few military checkpoints along the way, stopping for tea & candy with officials before continuing on.

The drive took 2 days, and the roads were some of the worst I’ve ever seen. Dust seeped into the vehicle, covering us in dirt. We forded rivers, drove along the edge of sheer cliffs, and were frequently stopped by huge herds of goats blocking the road. The van suffered 6 flat tires during the journey.

Staying At Wakhi Settlements

While I entered Afghanistan alone, I decided to hire a local translator/guide and horseman to accompany me on the trek into the mountains. It would have been extremely difficult to communicate with others without their help. We spent a few nights at Wakhi settlements during the hike.

Wakhi homes are basically stone huts with dirt floors, constructed using manure for cement. The roof is made of logs, grass, and more manure to keep it waterproof. Some shelters had stoves inside, others just had a fire pit. Either way it was pretty smokey inside with a fire…

Children Of The Wakhan

Life in the Wakhan is rough, especially for kids. About 60% of children here die before the age of five, the highest infant mortality rate in the world. If they do survive, they are put to work helping out with the family business — animal herding.

There are a few schools out here, thanks to the Central Asia Institute, but it’s up to the parents if they go. In some communities, only the boys are sent to school. The morning commute can take a few hours by donkey due to the lack of roads and distance between settlements.

Wildlife In Afghanistan

I was really hoping to see a snow leopard or Marco Polo sheep while I was traveling through the mountains of Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor. You know, Walter Mitty style! Unfortunately both of these endangered animals are extremely difficult to spot — but I did find camels!

Luckily the Wildlife Conservation Society has staff in the area, often spending weeks in the field gathering data to protect wildlife in the Wakhan. They estimate there are about 100-200 snow leopards living in these mountains. Wolves and bears also call this wilderness home.

A Glimpse Of The Other Afghanistan

So there you go. A peek at the other side of Afghanistan that we never see on the nightly news. After traveling the world extensively for the past 6 years, I’ve noticed this is a common theme.

Don’t let our media, which is primarily focused on negative & sensational topics, be your only window into the dynamics of a foreign country you’ve never been to.

I’m not going to tell you that Afghanistan is safe. It’s not. Our troops who’ve served there can tell you. Afghans themselves are well aware of the dangers that plague their country too.

But I think there’s another side to Afghanistan that deserves some attention. The rugged, scenic mountain landscapes. The friendly, hospitable local people.

I’m hopeful for the day when Afghanistan’s problems fade away, and more travelers can safely enjoy the beauty this incredible country has to offer. ★

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READ MORE TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my Afghanistan photos! Hopefully you also found this post useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:

• How To Visit The Wakhan Corridor
• Top Travel Quotes For Wanderlust
• Great Compact Cameras For Traveling
• 40 Travel Jobs For Digital Nomads
• How To Become A Digital Nomad

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Have any questions about Afghanistan? What do you think about traveling there? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Kamchatka, Russia

On the remote Russian peninsula of Kamchatka, indigenous Even people watch over large herds of reindeer as their ancestors have for centuries. We caught up with them after traveling by snowmobile.

Blowing winter snow stung my face like 1000 tiny frozen needles.

Riding snowmobiles through a whiteout in 60 mph winds, with a wind chill temperature of -39F, we were attempting to escape the top of a featureless alpine plateau. The weather just keeps getting worse.

I was seriously starting to worry if we’d make it out of here…

It’s March, and we’re deep in the heart of Kamchatka, a 900-mile long Russian peninsula attached to Siberia that juts out into the Pacific Ocean. Most people only know it from the game of RISK.

It’s about the size of California, with only 400,000 residents.

Kamchatka is a wilderness lover’s playground, composed of thick boreal forests, geothermically active volcanoes, and barren tundra landscapes.

This mysterious landmass was off-limits to outsiders until the 1990s, due to its strategic importance to the Soviet military’s nuclear submarine bases.

The Kamchatka Penninsula

No roads lead into Kamchatka, the only way to visit is by sea or air. The peninsula was once part of the Bering land bridge that connected Asia to North America.

Part of the Pacific Ocean’s notorious Ring Of Fire, Kamchatka boasts 200 different volcanoes, 30 of them active. It’s also teeming with wildlife, including a massive population of Grizzly bears.

The land has many similarities with Alaska, and was the perfect location for an adventure travel photography tour that I was co-leading with fellow travel photographer Matt Reichel.

Our mission? Take a group of adventure-lovers into the heart of this lesser-known wilderness to meet with nomadic Even reindeer herders who live there.

Preparing For Our Expedition

We first flew into Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy, Kamchatka’s small Soviet-style capital city surrounded by volcanoes. Followed by a 6-hour bus ride to the small village of Esso, our jumping off point for the rest of the trip.

In Esso we secured snowmobiles, food, and supplies. We also meet up with our local backcountry guides and drivers, preparing to explore Kamchatka’s Ichinsky District for the next week.

There’s Vlad, a Belarusian fixer/translator and geological scientist who’s been living in Kamchatka researching active volcanoes. Igor is the rugged Russian team leader and former park ranger for Bystrinsky National Park.

Ilya and his wife Dasha are our indigenous Even guides and key to helping us visit the Taboons (nomadic reindeer herding communities on the tundra).

Russian Snowmobile Adventure

Leaving civilization, our small convoy of 5 snowmobiles pulls sleds full of gear (and ourselves) through forests of fresh snow under the shadow of massive volcanoes.

Traveling by snowmobile out here is a challenging endeavor!

Sometimes you need to lean with your driver in order to navigate sharp turns, much like a motorcycle.

Occasionally dodging tree branches and always prepared to jump-off in an emergency to avoid getting crushed by the sled.

And jump-off we did, many times! When a snowmobile tips over into deep snow, it can take a good 10 minutes to dig it out.

Then there are tricky river crossings requiring careful maneuvers, sometimes building temporary bridges by hand using tree saplings and branches covered with snow.

Just traveling out to visit these reindeer herds was an adventure itself.

Even Reindeer Taboons

After a long day of snowmobile travel through thick forests, high alpine tundra, steep mountain passes, and semi-frozen rivers in Kamchatka’s Ichinkski district, we arrive at the first reindeer taboon.

Kiryak Adukanov and his family have constructed a simple wooden cabin out here, from which to base themselves. They are Evens, an indigenous group based in Siberia.

The Even have a long history of reindeer husbandry, making a living (and living off of) semi-domesticated herds of animals in Russia’s Far East and Siberian wilderness areas.

These days reindeer meat is sold to the Russian government and other companies around the world as a luxury product that can fetch up to $10 a pound. Antlers are sold to China and ground into “medicines”.

We spend an hour pitching camp behind a huge snow drift, including digging a “snow toilet” to protect us from the wind – which becomes important later.

Hanging Out With The Herd

The next morning Kiryak takes us out into the forest to meet his large herd of reindeer, and it’s quite a sight!

Dressed in camo, with a rifle slung on his back, he shouts and whistles while trekking over the snow on a pair of homemade wooden skis — all 1200 animals following behind him like some kind of wilderness pied-piper.

The reindeer then begin to dig through the snow, munching away at the hidden grasses they prefer to eat. After they get comfortable with our presence, we’re able to walk among them, capturing photos and watching their behavior.

Collecting Reindeer Meat

Our hosts then proceed to shoot a reindeer, something they do every few weeks. The Even live off the meat and use the pelt as warm sleeping pads and protective clothing.

We’ve brought in supplies from the village to trade in exchange for a supply of fresh meat, which will sustain us for the rest of our voyage.

The only catch, is having to watch one get butchered…

WARNING: The following few paragraphs include semi-graphic descriptions of the killing and skinning of animals. Feel free to skip it.

[su_spoiler title=”Click To Read Graphic Content” open=”no” style=”fancy” icon=”plus” anchor=”” class=””]If you haven’t seen it before, watching an animal get slaughtered in front of you can be pretty jarring the first time.

It really makes you appreciate where your meat comes from.

Skin is peeled off with the aid of sharp hunting knives, internal organs removed, and the meat is separated by head, legs, and ribs for easy transport back to camp.

Finally, a steaming cup of raw reindeer blood is passed between the Even. They drink to honor the sacrifice this animal made. It’s offered to us as guests, and a few of us give it a try…

It’s warm and tastes of iron, with mystery chunks of flesh floating around.[/su_spoiler]

Dangerous Weather Moves In

Back at camp, we fire up the stove and feast on tasty bowls of hearty reindeer stew before settling into our tents for the night.

However, sleep is interrupted around 4am when wind picks up drastically and buries our campsite with snow drifts. A layer of frost covers our sleeping bags.

The morning is chaos. Sixty miles per hour winds and sub-zero temperatures force us to break camp in the middle of a whiteout.

Not sure how long it will take us to find the next taboon, we evacuate back to Esso for a night due to the bad weather, some of us showing signs of frostbite.

Legend Of The Whales

After our break in Esso, we’re back on the trail again, spending the next four days tracking down another taboon in the Russian backcountry.

Some families live in a portable yurt, moving with the herd every few weeks.

We’re staying in basic hunting cabins. My favorite of them sits at the base of snow-covered Ichinsky Volcano. At 11,834 ft. (3,607 m) tall, it’s the highest peak of Kamchatka’s Sredinny Range.

The Even people practice a form of shamanism. One legend is about a volcano spirit plucking five whales out of the ocean, one on each finger, and cooking them inside — causing the volcano to smoke.

Kamchatka has many natural hot-springs due to all the geothermal activity too.

Russia’s Adventure Destination

Riding back through the snow to Esso after a long and cold week in the Russian wilderness, I reflect on what we’d seen and experienced.

Kamchatka is a fascinating place. Full of rugged beauty, wildlife, and ancient culture. But without all the crowds of some more popular travel destinations.

It was a challenging trip, but those are often the most rewarding anyway!

I only hope the reindeer of Kamchatka continue to thrive, as there’s been a disturbing trend with global declines of reindeer and caribou populations partly due to climate change.

If you’re interested in a possible trip to Kamchatka in the future, I highly recommend checking out Matt’s tour company Inertia Network.

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Afghanistan

In August 2016 I traveled through Afghanistan as an American for two weeks, backpacking across the beautiful Pamir mountains in the Wakhan Corridor. This is how I did it.

[su_note note_color=”#F5DCDC” text_color=”#333333″ radius=”3″ class=””]
DISCLAIMER: The US government warns against travel to Afghanistan. Just because I went, does not mean I think everyone should go. The safety situation changes on a weekly basis, and requires a good deal of research/planning.
[/su_note]

When I told family & friends I was planning a trip to Afghanistan, they thought I’d lost my mind.

Afghanistan, the war-torn Centra Asian (or Middle Eastern, depending on who you ask) country full of terrorists, soldiers, car bombs, predator drones, and IEDs.

Why the hell would I want to go there?

Afghanistan has been on my bucket list for a few years after I met a fellow traveler and public speaker Shane Dallas who happened to share his experience with me at a travel industry conference.

I learned that the version of the country most of us see each night on the evening news is simply not the full story…

Parts of Afghanistan can be dangerous, sure, but it’s also full of beauty, hospitality, and history too.

This is the Afghanistan I was on a mission to seek out and share.

The Wakhan Corridor

Afghanistan’s remote and desolate Wakhan Corridor is called the “roof of the world” by the local people who live there.

It’s located in the far North-East corner of the country, surrounded on three sides by Tajikistan, Pakistan and China.

The Wakhan is incredibly cut-off from the rest of Afghanistan.

There are no government services, large parts of the region have no roads, and people are basically living on their own in the mountains.

The area is inhabited by two main ethnic groups, the Wakhi and the Kyrgyz. The Wakhi often have two homes, one for winter and one for summer months, made of stone.

The Kyrgyz are more nomadic, living in semi-portable yurt tents made of felt. They move their homes and animals to different valleys depending on the season.

A majority of the population raises livestock for a living. They trade sheep, goats and yaks to merchants from Pakistan or other parts of Afghanistan for clothing, food, and necessities they can’t produce themselves at these remote high-altitude locations they call home.

The Wakhan used to be part of the ancient Silk Road, and explorers Marco Polo and Alexander the Great both passed through this part of Afghanistan on their travels around the world.

Safety In Afghanistan

Travelers don’t have to worry about the Taliban or Al-Qaeda in the Wakhan. It’s one of the few places in Afghanistan that has remained relatively conflict-free over the years.

The Wakhan is part of Afghanistan’s Badakhshan Province. While the Taliban does have a presence in parts of Badakhshan, the Wakhan region itself is terrorist-free (for now). The main road leading in is currently controlled by the Afghan Military, who keeps the Taliban out.

Most locals living in Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor are Ismaili Muslims, who practice a moderate form of Islam. They despise the Taliban, and generally welcome foreign travelers. It’s become an important part of their economy.

But that doesn’t mean the Wakhan is a tourist hot-spot.

The area sees a total of about 100 tourists every year. This is partly due to the taboo of traveling in a war-torn country, lack of reliable travel information including safety tips and remoteness of the region.

How To Get A Visa

There is a very specific process for obtaining a visa to enter Afghanistan’s Wakhan corridor, and it involves a trip to the neighboring country of Tajikistan and a town called Khorog near the border.

But first, you’ll need a double entry visa for Tajikistan. You cannot get a double entry visa on arrival at the airport, so you must apply for one in advance at an official embassy or consulate.

Why? After you travel into Afghanistan through Tajikistan, you’ll need to leave through Tajikistan too. Which counts as a 2nd entry into Tajikistan. But typical visas for Tajikistan are only single entry.

With your double-entry Tajik visa, the next step is to travel to the town of Khorog, where it’s possible to apply for an Afghanistan visa at the local consulate. Keep reading to learn more…

Arriving In Dushanbe

Flying into the city of Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, is going to be your first adventure. Tajikistan has a reputation as one of the most corrupt countries in the world — and you’ll soon know why.

Dushanbe airport officials asked me for bribes on 2 separate occasions. If you refuse, they send you to the back of the line, or move you to another line, over and over again until you give up and pay them.

Dushanbe Accommodation:

Twins Hotel | Rohat Hotel | Green House Hostel

I recommend spending at least one night in Dushanbe, but probably more. You’ll need to exchange cash, buy last-minute supplies, and get a local sim card for your phone.

The best cell phone company to use is TCell for cell service in the Pamir Mountains. You’ll even have some service on the Afghanistan side for a while.

There’s a basic outdoor shop in Dushanbe called “BAP3ИШ” where you can buy a knife, stove gas, and other camping supplies you might need in the Wakhan. Nothing high-end, just cheap Chinese made stuff.

Traveling To Khorog

Khorog is a mountain town in the heart of Tajikistan’s remote GBAO region. To travel in Tajikistan’s GBAO region, you need a GBAO permit.

This can be obtained either when applying for your double-entry Tajikistan visa, or in the Tajik capital of Dushanbe at the OVIR office.

Now you must travel to Khorog and apply for the Afghan visa in person.

This requires a rough, dusty, 20 hours long 4×4 taxi journey over the Pamir Highway from Dushanbe.

While there’s also a short flight from Dushanbe to Khorog, it’s not easy to get a ticket and is often canceled due to weather.

Khorog Accommodation:

Mountain River Guest House | Delhi Darbar Hotel | Pamir Lodge

Khorog is a major stop for trekkers/cyclists/motorcyclists who are exploring the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan. It’s also the last place you’ll find an ATM, there are 2 or 3 in town. Plan on spending a least a night or two here before heading to Afghanistan.

Visiting The Afghan Consulate

Khorog is home to a small Afghan consulate that has a reputation for giving out Afghan visas in as little as an hour. As an American, this same-day visa service cost me $200 USD.

Why so much? Because the United States makes it difficult for Afghans to get a visa. So they return the favor with a high visa fee for Americans.

The woman at the consulate was trying her best to persuade me not to visit. Saying the visa is too expensive for Americans, that it won’t be easy to travel there, etc. I assured her I was prepared and had been planning this trip for years.

At the consulate, I had to explain why I wanted to visit Afghanistan (hiking in the Wakhan), and write/sign a letter acknowledging I alone was responsible for myself and my actions in Afghanistan.

Crossing The Border

With my shiny new Afghan visa in hand, I traveled to the Tajik border town of Ishkashim. It’s a 3 hour drive South of Khorog. One or two shared taxis head to Ishkashim from Khorog each morning.

The desolate Afghanistan border post sits on the right side of the road before you actually reach the town of Ishkashim. Tajikistan border guards have a reputation for requesting bribes, so just be aware.

On the Afghan side of the border, they searched my bags and scanned my passport through the INTERPOL database to ensure I wasn’t a fugitive. After that, I was in! Welcome to Afghanistan.

I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t feeling nervous standing on Afghan soil.

The border post is a few kilometers away from the nearest Afghan town of Sultan Eshkashim, so unless you want to walk there, an overpriced taxi ride costs $20 for a 10-minute drive.

[su_note note_color=”#DCEFF5″ text_color=”#333333″ radius=”3″ class=””]
Ishkashim vs. Sultan Eshkashim: These are two different towns, and it can be confusing. Ishkashim is the border town on the Tajikistan side, Sultan Eshkashim is the border town on the Afghanistan side.[/su_note]

Eshkashim & Wakhan Permits

Sultan Eshkashim is the entrance to the Wakhan Corridor. Many travelers are happy to just hang out there for a few days to experience a taste of Afghanistan before heading back to Tajikistan.

But if you want to go hiking in the Wakhan, you need to acquire additional permits.

Sultan Eshkashim Accommodation:

Marco Polo Guest House (no website)

While getting these permits on your own is possible, it’s a huge pain in the ass if you don’t speak Persian/Farsi. Instead, I hired an English speaking local to help for about $50.

The permit process involves multiple passport photos, paperwork, plenty of tea, and stops at a few different government, police, and military offices. You’ll have to explain yourself to local officials questioning why you are there, what you do, etc.

The whole ordeal takes 3-4 hours, provided all the offices are even open. They sometimes close down on certain days (Friday/Saturday). I got lucky, but if something is closed you may have to return the next day.

Local officials eventually gave me a hand-written letter granting permission to travel to the next village, where I’d have to request permission again to move on further.

Driving To Sarhad-e Broghil

Now that I had my permits for the Wakhan, it was time to make my way 200 km up the valley in an expensive 4X4 taxi to the village of Sarhad-e Broghil, where the road ends and the true wilderness begins.

I hired a local translator/guide to join me on the trek.

For the next 2 days, Yar Mohammad Attahi helped me navigate additional checkpoints and permit stops as we drove into the mountains while giving me the opportunity to actually communicate with locals.

The 4X4 journey to Sarhad navigates some of the roughest roads I’ve ever seen. Over boulder fields, into rivers, along the edge of cliffs, and through deep desert sand.

Our beat-up Toyota van was equipped with crappy shocks, broken windows, and was repeatedly crippled by flat tires (5 times). It was one wild ride!

But because so few cars travel out here, and the route is unforgiving to vehicles, the price of this “taxi” journey is high — $350 one way.

Once we made it to Sarhad-e Broghil, Yar and I spent the night at a guesthouse. The next day we began our 100 mile trek across the towering, snow-capped Pamir Mountains.

READ MORE: Epic Pictures From Afghanistan

Hiking In The Wakhan

While I’ll go into more detail about the trek itself in future articles, I just wanted to share some logistics here. I found my guide/translator Yar in the Afghan border town of Sultan Eshkashim.

At the end of the road in Sarhad, we hired a pack horse accompanied by its owner Panshambe to help carry our food & gear for the next 10 days of hiking.

The three of us were completely on our own in the wilderness after Sarhad. Only passing through tiny Wakhi or Kyrgyz communities made up of a few stone huts and yurts. No markets, no doctors, no roads.

I’d brought a camping stove and enough freeze-dried meals for 12 days, along with energy bars and trail mix for snacks. My companions packed rice, tea, and bread for themselves. Over the course of the trip we mixed and shared our supplies with each other.

Unless you bring your own trekking food, your options are going to be limited. Canned fish, beans, rice, and sugar are available to buy in Sultan Eshkashim. But that’s about it. You can sometimes buy flatbread from locals in the mountains.

The 10 day trek maintained altitudes between 12,000 and 16,000 feet. The trails themselves weren’t terribly difficult, as they are used by locals on a daily basis, but it’s the altitude and the dramatic weather that can mess you up.

Some of the trails were perched on the edge of 300 foot drops, and when it snowed (yes, in August), these became much more dangerous. There were many river crossings, but nothing deeper than your knee.

We hiked a loop from Sarhad to Chaqmaqtin Lake, starting on the “high” route through the 16,000 ft. Garumdee Pass, returning on the “low” river route back to Sarhad. You can read more about these trekking routes here.

How Much Did It Cost?

I spent 2 weeks in Afghanistan, with 10 days of those trekking. It cost me about $1800 USD. That doesn’t include 1 week spent in neighboring Tajikistan before and after the trip. Because just getting to the border of Afghanistan is a separate adventure that takes 2-3 days!

To keep things simple, prices are in US Dollars.

Tajikistan Costs

• Double Entry Tajikistan Visa: $55 USD
• GBAO Permit: $4-$20 USD
• Dushanbe Hotel: $10-$80 USD per night (x 2)
• 4X4 Taxi to Khorog: $38 USD (x 2)
• Khorog Hotel: $20-$50 USD per night (x 2)
• Taxi to Ishkashim: $9 USD (x 2)

Afghanistan Costs

• Afghanistan Visa: $200 USD (cheaper if you’re not American)
• Taxi to Eshkashim: $20 (x 2)
• Guest House: $10-$25 USD per night (x 8)
• Wakhan Permits: $50 USD
• 4×4 Taxi: $350 USD one way (x 2)
• Pack Animal: $20 USD per day (x 10)
• Guide/Translator: $30 USD per day (x 14)
• Camping: Free

I’d say you want to budget at least $2500 USD and 3 weeks for a similar trip, not including flights. Stuff goes wrong, delays happen, prices change, and credit/ATM cards are useless once you’re in Afghanistan.

It’s a tough place to travel in that respect. You need to plan at least a few buffer days, and bring plenty of extra cash for unexpected situations.

Warnings About Travel In Afghanistan

Afghanistan is still a very volatile country. While the Wakhan Corridor itself is pretty safe, a foreigner did disappear there recently, and other parts of the province have seen kidnappings and Taliban attacks.

Just because it felt safe when I was there doesn’t mean it always will be.

Also, it’s important for me to point out that the Afghanistan/Tajikistan border sometimes closes without warning. Usually because of Cholera outbreaks, sometimes just because of bureaucratic arguments.

If it closes when you’re on the Afghan side, you’ll be stuck there until it opens again. Which could be a few days, or a few weeks. You need to be prepared for that possibility.

Traveling overland from Kabul to the Wakhan is not a safe option at the moment, as there are Taliban controlled areas located between the two. Entering & exiting from Tajikistan is the safest option.

Helpfull Websites About The Wakhan

• Trekking The Pamir

Other Areas Of Afghanistan

• Driving In Afghanistan Nomad Revelations
• Ultimate Afghanistan Travel Guide Lost With Purpose
• Afghanistan Travel Guide Uncharted Backpacker

Wakhan Corridor Guide

If you’re planning a trip to the Wakhan, you can reach out to Yar Mohammad Attahi as a guide and translator. Tell him I sent you!

More From Afghanistan

This was just a brief overview of the logistics for traveling in Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor. I’ll be sharing much more about the incredible trek itself in future articles.

If you’d like a notification when I publish something new about Afghanistan, make sure to sign up for my newsletter here. ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Surfing in the Philippines

Siargao Island, Philippines

I’m paddling away from a four foot wall of crystal blue water, rising up from the ocean and bearing down on my position. I feel a push as it catches my board, faster & faster.

In one quick motion I hop up in a crouch, knees bent, feet wide, arms out, pointing right as the peak of the wave begins to crash & churn on my left.

Dragging my right hand through the water as I race down its face to freedom.

If I had to describe surfing to someone, it would include the word ecstasy.

Surfing In The Philippines

Welcome to Siargao, a tropical island paradise known for its surfing in the Pearl of the Orient Seas. Its just one small island among the 7000 that make up the Philippines.

Yet Siargao boasts a unique mix of excellent surfing, relaxed vibes, deserted beaches, warm water, and a practically unlimited supply of fresh coconuts.

If you’re a surfer, or want to learn, you really need to visit Siargao.

I spent 3 weeks exploring this little slice of heaven and didn’t want to leave. That’s how incredible the island is!

General Luna, Siargao

Siargao Island Paradise

Where is Siargao Island? It’s located in the South East of the country. They have a small airport that you can fly into from Cebu, or another option is the 3 hour ferry from the city of Surigao (careful, SURIGAO and SIARGAO sound similar but are different places!).

I flew from Cebu to Siargao Island in a small plane via Cebu Pacific Airways. Once there, it’s easy to jump on a shuttle to General Luna, the island’s main surf-town.

The 40 minute drive provides a glimpse at life on this island as you pass simple thatched roofed homes on stilts, rice fields, lush tropical forests, barefoot children and large carabao (water buffalo) on the side of the road.

Boardwalk at Cloud 9

Famous Cloud 9 Surf Break

Surfing In The Philippines

What really sets Siargao apart from other islands in the Philippines is the surfing! With over 15 different surf breaks around the island, both on & offshore, there are plenty of options for every skill level.

Just rent a small motorcycle with board rack for $8 a day.

Surfboard rentals cost about the same. The selection isn’t the greatest (boards are difficult to ship here), but Fat Lips Surf Shop has decent stuff.

To reach offshore breaks you need to hire a local outrigger boat, called a banca, to take you there. Round up a group or wait at the beach for other surfers to join you. It only costs about $5 per person.

Your captain will hang out on the boat (or go surfing with you) until you’re finished. How cool is that? One of our captains was only 15 years old!

Time To Hit the Waves (Shot on GoPole Evo)

Siargao Surf Breaks

There are many different surf spots around Siargao. I’ve listed some of the most popular below. My favorites were offshore — usually less crowded due to the need for hirig a boat to reach them.

The boat ride adds to the surfing experience anyway!

Cloud 9

Cloud 9 is the most popular break on Siargao, and the location of some international surf competitions. It’s a powerful high-tide reef break that produces consistent barrels both left & right. For advanced surfers only.

Quicksilver

Located next to Cloud 9, this right-hand wave is smaller, but still breaks on the same shallow reef. It can often be crowded.

Stimpy’s

If you like lefts, Stimpy’s is great. It’s a 10 minute boat ride offshore, which means it can be less crowded. There are actually two breaks here, the inside one is larger. Best at low to mid tide.

Rock Island

Nearby to Stimpy’s is Rock Island, pictured in the first image. A similar setup only this one is a right, and only good when the wind is just right. It’s a sweet spot for photos with that giant rocky outcropping in the background.

Daku Reef

Daku is another offshore right-hand break, about 10 minutes by boat from the local fish market. When it’s good, this is one of my favorite waves. The current is strong though, so it can be a long paddle back after you catch one.

Cemetery

I actually never made it out to Cemetery. Located in front of an actual cemetery, it’s a long 15 minute paddle from shore. But if you’re willing to get out there, you’ll be rewarded with no crowd. Best at low tide.

G1

Many surfing classes go here, as well as locals, so it can be crowded. It’s a 15 minute motorcycle ride away from General Luna. G1 breaks both left & right, and is best at high tide. There is another break right beside it too.

Captain Lito & His First Mate

Surfing with PrAna Board Shorts

Riding Waves With PrAna

Before traveling to the Philippines for my Siargao surfing trip, the adventure enthusiasts at PrAna hooked me up with their colorful Seaton Board Shorts, which I wore almost every day!

No need for a shirt and shoes while island hopping in the Philippines…

Surfing has quickly become my favorite adventure sport. It’s not easy to learn, but with a few lessons and lots of practice, you’ll be completely hooked.

The better you get, the more addicted you become.

It’s the challenge of learning to read and move with the water. Making split-second decisions in a fast-paced environment. The threat of danger should a wave send you crashing into the reef below.

The unmatched feeling of accomplishment after a successful ride!

Stunning Siargao Sunsets

Visiting Siargao

While the waves are rockin’ at Siargao year round, most people who visit for surfing do so in the fall (September/October). You’ll find all kinds of guesthouses, bungalows, and surf resorts around General Luna for as low as $10 a night.

I stayed at a few different places, but my favorite was Kermit Surf Resort. Proper island-style accommodation with a super friendly hostel-like vibe & common area. They make excellent wood-fired pizza and other authentic Italian dishes (the Philippines is not really known for its food).

In fact writing about Siargao is just convincing me to go back.

The slow pace of life, cheap accommodation, incredible surfing, lack of tourists, and laid back attitudes makes it one of my favorite island destinations. Oh, and did I mention the epic sunsets every afternoon? ★

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources For The Philippines” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]
Location: Siargao Island, Philippines

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

Recommended Guidebook: Lonely Planet Philippines
Suggested Reading: When The Elephants Dance
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Abandoned Skyscraper in Bangkok

Bangkok, Thailand

The skyscraper’s 43rd floor is the most haunted of them all. Treading carefully over piles of debris, I pick my way through musty darkness praying I won’t vanish into a hole.

It happened in the bathroom. One morning a local photographer who was climbing the tower happened to smell something rancid and went to investigate.

That’s when he discovered the body.

Sathorn Unique Building

Bangkok’s Sathorn Unique skyscraper was supposed to become a premium luxury apartment complex with amazing views of the Chao Phraya River.

That was until this massive construction project was suddenly abandoned due to the collapse of the Thai Baht during Asia’s 1997 Financial Crisis.

Left to rot in neglect, the unfinished skyscraper eventually became a home for drug addicts, homeless vagrants, and wild dogs.

Sathorn Unique Tower

Graffiti Covers the Walls

The Haunted Skyscraper

This mysterious abandoned skyscraper rises 49-stories into the clouds high above downtown Bangkok. It’s official name is Sathorn Unique, but locals refer to it as “The Ghost Tower”. Most people keep their distance.

They believe the building is haunted, and for good reason.

Dead bodies seem to turn up here on a regular basis.

There’s also a 2nd twin building down the street called Lebua State Tower, an exact copy of this one. However while that skyscraper thrived (featured in The Hangover 2), Sathorn Unique has been cursed to ruin for the past 20 years.

The Throne Room?

Flooded Balconies

Weird Tourist Attraction?

People have been visiting this abandoned skyscraper for years, climbing over an outer fence or bribing one of the homeless inhabitants to open a locked gate to the stairwell.

However a few months before I arrived, the body of a Swedish backpacker was found hanging from a bathroom on the 43rd floor, discovered by a Thai photographer there to capture the sunrise.

After this incident, the building’s owner decided to make it safer (and earn some cash) by opening the ghost tower to tourists so they don’t break in.

Inside the Haunted Skyscraper

Standing Water & Trash

Exploring The Ghost Tower

The narrow stairwell of Sathorn Unique is claustrophobic and littered with rubbish. A few bare lightbulbs cast a dull glow on some floors, others are pitch black, making the climb hazardous.

After the first 10 floors is when I began to sweat.

It’s like climbing an indoor mountain, stopping to rest while exploring the abandoned, windowless luxury apartments decorated with graffiti and million-dollar views of the city below.

Dusty hallways are flooded with puddles of standing water, construction equipment, old shoes, broken toilets, electrical wires and more.

Piles of debris make it difficult to spot holes in the floor. Pieces of the ghost tower occasionally fall into the streets below as it descends into neglect.

Sunset from the Top

Extreme Selfie with my GoPole Reach

Incredible Panoramic Views

By the 49th floor I’m completely drenched in sweat and breathing heavily. It takes about 30 minutes of constant climbing to reach the top. The roof is a mess with steel rebar and broken concrete all over the place.

But the views over the city of Bangkok? Amazing!

A panoramic urban skyline stretches out before your eyes — filled with skyscrapers of all shapes & sizes, the BTS train system, narrow city streets congested with traffic, and barges loaded with goods floating down the Chao Phraya river.

Your reward for the challenge of scaling the tower is a beautiful sunset.

GoPole Scenelapse in Action

Where to stay in Bangkok?

Budget

iCheck Inn Silom –

Check prices on: Booking.com | HotelsCombined | Agoda

Mid-Range

Padi Madi Boutique – Small stylish hotel right next to a metro station and various dining options.

Check prices on: Booking.com | HotelsCombined | Agoda

Fancy

Sofitel Bangkok –

Check prices on: Booking.com | HotelsCombined | Agoda

[su_note note_color=”#DCEFF5″ text_color=”#333333″ radius=”3″ class=””]
I also enjoy using AirBnB from time to time. Make sure to read my article about how to find cheap hotels too.[/su_note]

Shooting With GoPole

To capture this adventure on video I used my GoPole Reach attached to a GoPro. It gives you some unique perspectives, including sitting on the edge of a skyscraper dangling my feet over the side!

Another cool attachment I used is the GoPole Scenelapse on the GoPole Base — this rotating timer is great for recording time-lapse sequences like the one at the end of my video below. ★

Watch Video: Exploring Bangkok’s Ghost Tower

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources For Bangkok” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]
Location: Bangkok, Thailand
Cost: 200 Baht ($6 USD)

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

Thailand Travel Guide: Lonely Planet Thailand
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Rock Climbing at Railay Beach

Railay Beach, Thailand

Giant pillars of karst limestone protrude into the sky around Railay Beach, home to some of the best rock climbing in the world. Even the monkeys love this place.

Climbers from around the world regularly flock to Krabi Province to test their skills on the 700+ bolted climbing routes around Railay Beach. After working behind my computer for a few weeks in Bangkok, I decided to visit for a little climbing adventure.

From the coastal town of Ao Nang, it’s a short & very scenic boat ride to Tonsai Beach where I was staying. Tonsai is like the hippie version of Railay Beach. It’s less developed, cheaper, and there’s no electricity during the day.

Long Tail Boat Ride to Tonsai

My Climbing Gear

Climbing Railay Beach

The climbing in Tonsai is pretty advanced, so I hiked 10 minutes through the jungle every morning to Railay for climbing lessons with Hot Rocks Climbing School. While I’ve got some climbing experience, I’m definitely not a pro.

I can tie in, belay other climbers, and repel solo, but I don’t know how to lead climb yet. This means someone else has to go first and set up the “top rope”.

John would be my instructor for the next few days, leading the climbs and holding the rope that kept me from plummeting to the ground if I slipped. I could tell right away we’d get along.

John My Instructor from Hot Rocks

Climbing with PrAna Gear

Climbing With PrAna

Climbing in Railay also gave me the chance to test out some new travel clothing from PrAna’s Spring Collection. They hooked me up with a bunch of cool stuff. Their gear is fair trade certified, ensuring that the people who made it were justly compensated for their hard work.

The instructors at Hot Rocks actually complimented me on my clothing, as they’re all fans of PrAna. It’s a well known brand in the climbing community. Although they said it’s difficult to get in Thailand.

I’m really loving PrAna’s Bronson Pant — made from comfortable but tough stretch canvas that’s perfect for adventure travel. They look great too!

Monkeys Show Me How It’s Done…

GoPole Bobber Selfie from 60 Feet

Scaling Rocky Cliffs

Railay Beach has hundreds of climbing routes, so there’s something for every skill level. John started me on some easy stuff, and by the end of the week I was scaling pitches rated 6A+. The grade describes the difficulty and danger of the climb.

When I’d get stuck somewhere, he’d yell up for encouragement:
“Matt, do it for your country!”

There were other incentives too. Like if I reached the top of a climb, I’d be rewarded with a beer later. If I didn’t, I’d get a ladyboy…

Luckily I reached the top every time.

Rock Climbing in Thailand

Rock Climbing In Thailand

I attached my GoPro to a GoPole Bobber and took it up with me, capturing some fun climbing photos. One morning a family of monkeys decided to climb around with us! They were much faster than me, even with babies clinging on for the ride.

If you’ve never tried it, rock climbing is a wonderful workout. It activates tons of small muscles that normally don’t get much use, especially in your hands & forearms. But the great thing about Railay is that if you get tired, just take a break to go swimming, kayaking, sunbathing, or island hoping.

Deep Water Solo climbing is also popular here. This is when you climb without ropes over water.

Whether you’re into rock climbing or not, a journey to beautiful Railay Beach is worth the trip. However while you’re there you should definitely take a climbing lesson. It’s one of the best places in the world to try.

Climbing is a safe, challenging, and super fun adventure activity! ★

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources For Railay” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]
Location: Railay Beach, Thailand
Company: Hot Rock Climbing School
Cost: ฿1000 THB ($30 USD) Half Day

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Nakhon Chai Si, Thailand

Hordes of screaming men possessed by their magic Sak Yant tattoos run wildly towards a shrine, crashing into the human shield of soldiers protecting it. Welcome to Thailand’s bizarre Wai Kru Festival.

Sak Yants are traditional Thai tattoos etched into the skin by Buddhist monks for protection & luck, blessed with magic powers. Often applied by hand using a long metal or bamboo rod with a needle attached to the end, dipped in special ink made from ingredients like charcoal & snake venom.

However the supernatural power of these tattoos wears off over time, requiring them to be re-blessed and recharged. This is the purpose of the Wai Kru festival, paying respect to the teacher, and infusing new magic into thousands of Sak Yants at once.

The result can only be described as absolute mayhem.

Traditional Sak Yant

The evening before Wai Kru, a group of Ajarns (tattoo masters) and Buddhist monks gather at the temple to apply 1000 fresh tattoos on those who want them, working long into the night. I received my own Sak Yant a few years ago right here at Wat Bang Phra, so returning for this tattoo festival was special for me. After 2 years it was time to recharge the magic of mine.

The Sak Yant was originally used by warriors seeking protection and strength in battle. Often covering their entire bodies from head to toe in magic symbols to prevent knives and arrows from piecing their skin. These days Thai people from all walks of life get them — doctors, lawyers, taxi drivers, prostitutes, actors, and mafia criminals.

Possessed By Tattoos

Thousands of devoted have gathered to renew the powers of their tattoos at the Wai Kru, and for some, the power overcomes them. Sitting cross-legged under the hot sun they enter a trance called Khong Khuen and become their tattoos — the Tiger, Crocodile, Old Man, or Hanuman the Hindu monkey god.

The Old Man slowly ambles up through the crowd hunched over with an invisible cane while laughing maniacally. Hanuman the monkey god leaps up screaming, sprinting full-speed towards a statue of their former master Luan Por Phern, tripping over others on the way. A wall of soldiers & paramedics stops them from reaching the shrine, pulling them out of the trance by rubbing their ears.

Wai Kru Festival

At first the trance only afflicts a handful of people, but as the morning progresses, the energy builds. Eventually hundreds of people are running for the shrine in total chaos, arms flailing wildly, crashing into onlookers with clouds of dust in the 90 degree heat. Monks then lead the crowd in prayer, recharging the magic powers of everyone’s Sak Yant tattoos.

I spot Master Luang Pi Nunn among them, the monk who tattooed a Gao Yord design on my back. Even during prayer, a few more possessed jump up and sprint for the shrine. However once the incantations have been recited, the ceremony ends and a crowd of 10,000 pushes up to the front while monks spray everyone with holy water. This was probably the scariest part of the whole morning, as you have no control of your own movement. It’s a suffocating sea of bodies, and you’re forced to flow with the tide.

Sak Yant Tattoo Magic

While I didn’t end up in a trance by participating in the ceremony, the adrenaline kick I received from standing in the middle of this mayhem was powerful. Attempting to dodge Monkeys, Tigers, and Crocodiles flying by in all directions certainly keeps you on your toes.

This sacred Wai Kru tattoo ceremony at Wat Bang Phra has recharged the magic of my own traditional ink, and I look forward to the renewed luck & protection that comes with it. ★

Watch Video: Sak Yant Tattoo Festival

(Click to watch Sak Yant Tattoo Festival on YouTube)

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources For Thailand” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]
Location: Nakhon Chai Si, Thailand

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Ayder, Turkey

Join me for an epic trekking adventure into the beautiful Kackar Mountains in Eastern Turkey where raw wilderness and ancient lifestyles leave lasting memories.

The Kaçkar Mountains are located in northeastern Turkey, not far from the Black Sea. The highest peaks reach an altitude of 3,937 meters (12,917 feet).

Hiking in these mountains is quite a treat, as they aren’t quite as popular as other mountain destinations like the Italian Alps, so there are far fewer tourists.

However they aren’t completely “wild” either, meaning there is some infrastructure in place for day hikers and overnight trekking.

The Kackar Mountains are interspersed with yaylas, or rural mountain villages inhabited by nomadic herders who bring livestock to graze in the high pastures during summer months.

Kackar Mountains Hiking Guide

Getting To The Kackar Mountains

To reach the Kackar Mountains, I flew into the Turkish city of Trabzon. After stocking up on some basic hiking supplies in Trabzon — like cooking gas and backpacking food — I hired a minibus taxi (called a dolmuş) to take me to the pretty mountain resort village of Ayder.

There is a mountain road that continues past Ayder to another village called Yakari Kavrun. You can walk this road, or hitchhike, like I did. The road mostly follows the swollen Kavron River rushing with fresh snow melt.

There were some other yaylas along the way, however many were abandoned, and a few showed signs of life as locals began returning with their animals.

While Ayder was bustling in June, Yukari Kavrun was still mostly closed. It was too early in the season. The actual mountain trail into the Kackars started above the village in Yukari Kavrun.

The people living in the Kackar Mountains come from all over. Their ancestors were originally from Armenia, Greece, Georgia, Russia, even Uzbekistan. They make a living herding cows and sheep; producing delicious cheese, yogurt, and some of the best honey in the world!

Encountering Dangerous Weather

Not long after I started my hike, I stopped briefly for lunch on a hill surrounded by colorful orange, yellow, and purple wildflowers. A jagged wall of snow-capped peaks loomed ahead as I hiked on.

Weather can change quickly in the Kackar Mountains, and it happened to me. The blue-bird day was soon consumed by a blanket of dark clouds rumbling with lightning and thunder. Then came the hail!

I was forced to retreat into a valley and find cover as lightning repeatedly struck the exposed ridge in front of me. Hastily constructing an emergency shelter using a rain tarp and crawling under just as the worst weather hit.

CRACK! BOOOOOM! It was the loudest thunder I’ve ever experienced, practically shaking the mountain beneath me. Soon followed by blinding flashes of lightning.

I love crazy weather, but this was pretty scary. Hail hammered down from the heavens — closer than usual here at 8,000 feet.

Alpine Lakes & Backcountry Camping

The bad weather passed almost as quickly as it arrived though. I emerged from my shelter to begin hiking again, searching for a decent camping spot.

Stopping to set up camp and prepare hot tea beside a deep blue alpine pond as the sun dropped below the horizon.

What kind of shelter was I packing? A hammock of course! But at these altitudes there are no trees… only rocks. However you’d be surprised at just how versatile a camping hammock can be. A set of rock climbing nuts, a large trash bag, and a foam pad turns a hammock into a traditional bivy sack for sleeping on the ground.

The temperature dropped and I gazed at the stars in total silence for a while, drinking some olive oil and doing pushups to build up some body heat before climbing into my sleeping bag for the night.

The next morning was cold and sunny. I scarfed down some bread, honey, and trail mix for breakfast before heading back out on the trail.

Walking down into a valley through snow towards another mountain lake. The sunlight didn’t last long though, and dark clouds soon moved in for a 2nd day, threatening to delay me again.

Lush Green Valleys

I managed to hike up and over the pass after taking shelter under a rock for an hour as another hail & lightning storm floated by.

The trail here is almost completely hidden from view under a layer of snow, which usually sticks around until mid July in the Kackar Mountains.

There were a few tricky sections where the snow was deep, but I made it down into the next valley after about 6 hours of hiking — and what a beautiful place it was!

The area is called Dupeduzu, a popular camping spot in these mountains. Fields of blinding white snow morphed into lush green grass covered with vibrant wildflowers.

The soundtrack to this paradise? Gushing rivers winding down from the steep mountains above.

After camping out for a 3rd day in the mountains, I hiked down to lower altitudes in order to stock up on food. Luckily there are many yaylas not far away where it’s possible to buy basic supplies like bread, cheese, trail mix, canned tuna, olives, and beans.

Because it was still early in the season, some villages are sparsely populated or completely abandoned. It took me a few hours to reach one of the larger villages called Olgunlar.

They have a few small guesthouses here, and an early morning dolmusch (public taxi) that will take you out of the mountains on a dirt road.

Kackar Mountain Wilderness

Once stocked up for another 2 days of trekking, I left Olgunlar on foot to begin climbing towards my ultimate goal, a stunning high mountain lake called Deniz Golu, and maybe a summit attempt on Mount Kackar itself, depending on hiking conditions.

On the way I encountered more streams to cross, local Muslim shepherds leading their sheep and cattle out to the freshest grazing pastures, and plenty of butterflies. The same reason this area produces the best honey is also why there are so many species of butterfly around…

The Kackar Mountains have an incredible amount of diversity when it comes to wildflowers!

I pitched my hammock/bivy beside a large boulder at the Dilberduzu camping area, where there’s actually an outhouse due to the large number of local hikers who pass through for summer mountaineering adventures. I finally ran into a few other hikers here too.

On the morning of my 4th day I rose with the sun to climb as high as I could into the Kackar Mountains. It didn’t take long to reach snow, and a majority of my hike was spent on it. Not fully equipped to trek in these conditions, I was using small garbage bags to line the inside of my shoes — a type of poor-man’s GoreTex.

While your footwear gets soaked on the outside, your feet themselves stay pretty dry. Most of the snow was well compacted by this point anyway, so I only sank down to my ankles.

Extreme Sledding Adventure

The effects of altitude hiking at 10,000 feet was taking its toll — catching my breath was a bit more difficult and slowing me down. But after about 2-3 hours of scrambling up over rocks, I made it to lake Deniz Golu, which unfortunately was still frozen over!

Too bad, as I’d previously seen photos of the lake, and it’s a spectacular shade of blue.

I hiked further up to 11,000 feet searching for a high vantage point for capturing photos of the amazing landscape around me. Mount Kackar itself was covered in a thick layer of clouds & fog, and with no discernible trail in the snow, it wasn’t safe for me to continue on my own. Especially without proper gear.

So what is the quickest way to descend a snow-covered mountain? Extreme sledding of course!

I used my sleeping-mat as a makeshift sled, and it was super fun.

While walking out of the Kackar Mountins I discovered a group of local women preparing a picnic in the grass next to an abandoned yayla. They waved me over and insisted I join them. Tasty homemade food and boiling hot tea was just what I needed after 4 days in the wilderness…

Our language barrier was high, only knowing about 5 words in each other’s native tongue. But with lots of smiles and hand gestures, we had some awkward yet amusing conversation.

I thanked them and walked on to Olgunlar, checking into a guesthouse and catching an early morning taxi out. ★

Where To Stay In Rize

So, the area I was hiking is located in the Rize District of Turkey. I stayed in two different guest houses before and after my hike.

Gokkusagi Apart in the village of Ayder and Kackar Pansiyon in the village of Olgunlar. They are very basic mountain resorts, that feel a lot like hostels. They offer private rooms, or shared bunk rooms.

Kackar Hiking Guidebook

Looking to plan your own hike? Check out “The Kackar: Trekking in Turkey’s Black Sea Mountains” by Kate Clow.

Buy The Book Here

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Tear Gassed Protesters in Istanbul

Istanbul, Turkey

Violence erupted in Istanbul this weekend on the anniversary of the Gezi Park protests. The past few weeks have seen at least 2 deaths and many injuries.

Last month on May 1st I was tear gassed by police as they clashed with protesters in the immigrant community of Tarlabasi where I was staying. Protesters were attempting to get to Taksim Square, site of the notorious 1977 May Day Massacre where some 36 people died when unknown gunmen opened fire on the crowd of 500,000 from rooftops over the square.

Ever since, gatherings in Taksim have usually been prohibited on this day. Turkish Prime Minister Erdogan banned protesters from entering the square to celebrate the holiday again this year, closing down parts of the city and sending an army of 40,000 police and 50 water cannons in to keep order and squash any resistance.

But labor unions and leftist political groups showed up anyway, armed with slingshots, gas-masks, fireworks, and molotov cocktails ready to start a fight.

Riot Police at Taksim Square

May Day Protesters Prepare for Clashes

Tear Gas vs. Fire Bombs

Admittedly I went out into the fray with my camera to cover the action. Joined by fellow travel blogger Becki Enright, we donned scarves and long sleeves to protect ourselves from the gas.

We stumbled into one of the main protest groups who were wearing red masks and yellow hard hats. They were attempting to bypass riot police through side streets. Some of them carried a large cardboard box full of molotov cocktails, which are beer bottles filled with kerosene and a cloth fuse.

Violence suddenly broke out when police arrived. It was complete chaos with fireworks launched at riot police and tear gas canisters landing in our vicinity, filling the air with smoke.

This was my first tear gas experience, and let me tell you, it isn’t pleasant!

The choking gas burns your eyes, nose, throat, skin, and makes you cough uncontrollably. You want to run in the opposite direction to find fresh air. But there is nowhere to hide, because the gas is everywhere.

Water Cannon Truck

Masked Protesters Waiting for Police

Violence In The Streets

Protesters were prepared though, firing rocks at the front line using slingshots. Then came the fire bombs! Men would light the fuse on a molotov cocktail, run up the street swinging the projectile in an arc before finally tossing it at officers who were hiding in a defensive formation behind riot shields.

When the bottle breaks in front of them, kerosene fuel explodes into a giant fireball. I’ve never seen anything like it. This was not a peaceful protest. It was a riot.

Eventually the gas became too much for us, and we ran into a local Kurdish market to breathe as police with gas masks moved in. They managed to force protesters back deeper into the neighborhood. Two women came running out of their homes towards the store screaming while holding crying babies.

We then watched as people were arrested and dragged away. Fighting moved on to other areas, smoke slowly cleared, and locals emerged from their hiding places to survey the damage. It was a surreal and shocking experience, but we were unharmed.

Police Form Protective Shield

Molotov Cocktails are Crude Fire Bombs

Mine Disaster & Other Deaths

Violence has been building all month. Over 300 people were recently killed in the Soma mine disaster on May 13th, many blaming the government after it privatized the company and safety standards went downhill.

Then 2 people were killed in the Okmeydani neighborhood of Istanbul on May 22nd during protests to remember Berkin Elvan, a 15 year old killed by police last year when he was hit in the head with a tear gas canister.

Members of the Revolutionary People’s Liberation Party/Front (considered a terrorist group by the United States) walked the streets of their community armed with shotguns and handguns.

A bystander was shot in the head by a stray police bullet after protesters threw molotov cocktails at armored vehicles. A 2nd man died when a homemade grenade exploded near police, wounding 9 other people.

Mother and Baby Run from Tear Gas

Protester Throws Molotov Cocktail at Police

2014 Gezi Park Anniversary

This weekend riots broke out yet again on May 31st, the anniversary of Istanbul’s Gezi Park protests last year. Taksim was closed off, and CNN reporter Ivan Watson was detained by police during a live broadcast. Later in the afternoon police used water cannons, tear gas, rubber bullets, and clubs to beat back thousands of protesters heading to the square.

I was was stranded across the water on the Asian side of Istanbul because ferries and other public transportation systems were shut down. But police fired tear gas at protesters that night in the Kadikoy neighborhood where I’m living. I heard at least 50+ explosions and the gas got into my apartment.

Istanbul wasn’t the only hot-spot this weekend though. Turkish travel blogger Anil Polat was detained by police in the capital city of Ankara while he was taking photos of the protests. He’s since been released.

Armored Trucks Patrol Istanbul

Riot Police Move in On Protesters

What Is Happening In Turkey?

I’m not Turkish, so I won’t speculate too much. But there is some civil unrest here right now. Large groups of people believe Prime Minister Erdogan should not be in power. But there are equally large groups who voted him back into office.

He is seen as rolling back the secularism that Turkey has been known for, instead of pushing for a more Islamic state. He’s been accused of corruption, intimidating journalists, jailing opponents, and more.

Earlier this year he tried to censor Twitter & YouTube throughout the country. Turkey is a very divided nation at the moment, and all these protests are proof of that.

However, once the protests are over, daily life appears to resume as normal. While walking around the tourist areas of Istanbul today it seemed like nothing ever happened.

So if you’re worried about visiting Turkey, don’t be.

In fact aside from this event, I had an epic time trekking through Northeastern Turkey’s Kackar Mountains.

Just stay away from any riots — unless you want to get tear gassed. ★

Have you ever joined a protest before? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Saving Elephants in Thailand

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Everyone wants to ride elephants in Thailand. Including me. That was until I spent the day at an elephant sanctuary and learned the disturbing truth about this popular activity.

Just imagine how incredible it would be to sit atop a massive 9 foot tall, 4-ton beast while lumbering your way through deep rivers and pristine jungle.

This is an experience many people dream about when planning to travel Southeast Asia on budget backpacking trip.

I couldn’t wait to get my photo riding on top of a massive elephant!

However, there’s a dark side to elephant tourism that many aren’t aware of…

Elephants taking a Dirt Shower

Elephant Nature Park

Elephant Nature Park (ENP) is a natural sanctuary tucked away in the beautiful jungles of Northern Thailand. Their mission is to protect & care for mistreated elephants rescued from the tourism and logging industries.

Increasing awareness and promoting sustainable elephant-friendly tourism is another goal. The park currently cares for 36 elephants on 250 acres of wilderness.

When I first arrived at ENP, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. How close could we get to the elephants? Could we touch them? Were they dangerous?

The only other time I’d seen an elephant outside a zoo was on Safari in South Africa, when one of them charged us! It was an intimidating experience.

Asian Elephants are Endangered

Elephant Nature Park’s Owner, Lek

Hanging Out With Giants

You get to participate in many fun elephant activities at ENP. I was able to feed them fresh fruit out of the palm of my hand, watch them play in the mud, go on walks with them, and even get into the river to help give them a bath!

Watching these gentle giants interact with each other is an inspirational travel experience.

They chat with friends and family members by chirping and trumpeting back and forth. You have a greater appreciation for how intelligent and social they really are.

You won’t find any elephant rides at Elephant Nature Park though. No circus tricks or elephant paintings either.

This is because the elephants here have been rescued from such places.

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Time for Lunch!

Swimming in the River

Plight Of The Asian Elephant

Asian elephants are an endangered species. Experts believe there are now less than 2000 wild elephants living in Thailand. The population is declining at a rapid rate due to loss of habitat.

Illegal capture and trade for use in the tourism industry is also a big problem.

This industry thrives because foreign visitors all want to ride elephants or watch them do tricks, paying good money for the privilege.

But the fact is those wild elephants need to be tamed before they can be ridden.

Except the taming process in Southeast Asia is not the same as with a wild horse.

It’s much more brutal and is accomplished when the elephants are very young.

I’d Follow a Basket of Bananas Too

Wash Elephants, Don’t Ride Them!

Baby Elephant Torture

Wild elephants generally won’t let humans ride on top of them. So in order to tame a wild elephant, it is tortured as a baby to completely break its spirit.

The process is called Phajaan, or “the crush”.

It involves ripping baby elephants away from their mothers and confining them in a very small space, like a cage or hole in the ground where they’re unable to move.

The baby elephants are then beaten into submission with clubs, pierced with sharp bull-hooks, while starved and deprived of sleep for many days.

You can watch a disturbing video of the process if you’re curious. Photographer Brent Lewin won an award for capturing this haunting image of the torture.

Baby Elephant Swimming

Elephant Trekking In Thailand

Elephant mistreatment doesn’t stop after they’ve been tamed. Many elephant camps continue to employ bull-hooks to control the animals.

While they may not be stabbing them constantly as they did during the training, it’s that deep learned fear of being stabbed that’s used to motivate them to work.

Always remember, elephants never forget.

If an elephant camp in Southeast Asia is claiming to be “responsible” with its animals, you should still be skeptical.

The process used to train them is often the same, even if they’re treated with kindness now. And usually, there is no way to be sure what’s going on when tourists go home.

Did you know that riding elephants can actually cause serious long-term harm too? Their spines are not made to support the weight of humans. I know it’s hard to believe given their size, but Zebras are the same way.

Baby Elephant Playing in River

Save The Elephant Foundation

Founder Lek Chailert has been fighting to save the elephants and change her country’s acceptance of their treatment since she was a young girl.

Lek created Elephant Nature Park to rescue mistreated elephants from the tourist trade and give them a better life.

The park provides day trips and week-long volunteer opportunities allowing tourists to interact with and learn about elephants responsibly.

As a registered Thai nonprofit foundation, fees collected go towards feeding and caring for the massive creatures, purchasing additional elephants from their abusive owners, and expanding the size of the sanctuary itself.

A trip to Elephant Nature Park includes a graphic video presentation that helps shed some light on the secretive elephant tourism industry. It’s not easy to watch.

Elephants Enjoy Sunsets Too!

The Choice Is Up To You

Brutal elephant training has been a traditional practice in Southeast Asia for hundreds of years. The problem these days is that most captive elephants in Thailand are used to entertain tourists rather than for traditional purposes like logging or military use.

It’s our demand for elephant rides and circus acts that lead to more baby elephants getting captured from their mothers, tortured, and sold off to entertain us.

Whether you ride elephants in Thailand or not is your choice. I try my best not to judge others because I’m acutely aware that we all have different moral codes & standards.

Most people who participate in elephant tourism in Thailand are completely unaware of how they are treated.

I know many friends who have ridden elephants. It’s easy to understand why people do it. I almost rode an elephant myself.

I simply wanted to share what I’ve learned after my own elephant experience in Thailand, to help you make a more informed decision moving forward. ★

Watch Video: Elephant Whisperer

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Company: Elephant Nature Park

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Book cheap flights on Skyscanner, my favorite airline search engine to find deals. Also read my tips for how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent local apartments on Airbnb ($35 discount!). Read my post for tips on booking cheap hotels.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

Recommended Guidebook: Lonely Planet Thailand
Suggested Reading: When Elephants Weep
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.