Canada Travel Articles • Expert Vagabond Adventure Travel Blog Adventure Travel & Photography Blog Sun, 21 Feb 2021 23:20:46 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.1.3 How To Survive Cold Weather Like A Polar Explorer https://expertvagabond.com/winter-survival-tips/ Tue, 03 Apr 2018 15:20:03 +0000 https://expertvagabond.com/?p=23011 It's -16 degrees fahrenheit outside, and we're pitching tents on a thick layer of hardened ice, preparing for a night of extreme cold weather conditions. Welcome to polar expedition training!

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Winter Survival Tips
Polar Training on Lake Winnipeg
Manitoba, Canada

It’s -16 degrees Fahrenheit outside, and we’re pitching tents on a thick layer of ice, preparing for a night of extreme cold weather conditions. Welcome to polar expedition training!

Twelve strangers from around the world traveled to Manitoba, Canada to spend a week camping and skiing across Lake Winnipeg, simulating the cold weather conditions of an expedition to the North Pole.

Leading our group is professional polar explorer and arctic guide Eric Larsen. Eric is no stranger to traveling in extreme winter conditions. He’s spent the past 20 years visiting some of the coldest places on earth.

In fact, he’s the only person to have trekked overland to the North Pole, the South Pole, and summited Mount Everest, unsupported, all in a single year!

Eric runs a Level 1 Polar Training Course in Canada to help prepare other adventurers for the unique challenges of camping and trekking in cold weather situations.

This year, Citizen Watches invited me to tag along and document the training, while also sharing some winter camping survival tips with you.

Polar Cold Weather Training
Ready to Tackle the Cold!
Eric Larsen Class
Eric Larsen’s Polar Training Class

Cold Weather Survival Tips

Who in their right mind would want to go hiking and camping in the ice and snow? Not many. However winter travel gives hardcore wilderness-lovers the challenge they crave, and a completely different outdoor experience.

Staying safe in these freezing conditions requires a bit more planning, a unique set of survival skills, and the proper gear.

If you do it right, like Eric does, you shouldn’t actually feel cold — the thing preventing most of us from enjoying winter adventures in the first place.

Being prepared for cold weather is the difference between a great trip, and a miserable one.

While I love a good winter backpacking trip, I don’t have much winter camping experience. Especially in extreme cold. So I was eager to learn how Eric stays warm on his epic long-distance polar adventures in the middle of nowhere.

Winter Survival Tips
Trekking Across the Ice

Layering Is Critical

What does layering mean? Basically, regulating your body’s temperature by adding or removing different layers of clothing.

Because while you don’t want to get cold, you also want to prevent getting so hot that you start sweating. Sweat sucks heat away from the body, eventually making you colder.

So staying warm requires a fine balancing act. This is why wearing multiple layers helps, as you can add or remove layers depending on your level of activity.

Eric recommends a 3-4 layer system, starting with a synthetic moisture-wicking base layer to draw sweat away from your body.

Next up is a warm insulating layer, preferably fleece. Now if it’s REALLY cold, you may want to add a 2nd, thicker base layer under the fleece.

Finally, a windproof, waterproof, and breathable shell jacket (like GoreTex) to protect against the outdoor elements (wind, snow, rain).

On his extreme North & South Pole trips, he also brings an oversized expedition down jacket to throw on during breaks, because your body heat quickly drops once you stop moving.

Winter Footwear Tips
Example of Cold Weather Footwear

Keep Your Feet Warm

If you’re trudging through ice and snow, you need to take care of your feet. The frozen ground will quickly suck heat away from them without proper insulation, risking frostbite on your toes.

It’s wise to wear a proper winter-rated boot. Something that includes a removable insulation layer if possible, which helps you dry them out later.

Don’t pick boots that fit too tight, as you’ll need room for at least 2 layers of socks. And tight fitting boots means less blood-flow to your toes.

Eric recommends wearing thin liner socks, followed by a thicker pair of wool ones. Plus a 2nd set for sleeping in while the others dry out.

In extreme temperatures, you can also wrap plastic bags on your bare feet, wearing socks over them. This “vapor barrier” traps in heat while also preventing your socks from getting soaked with sweat.

Remember To Hydrate

It’s sometimes easy to forget drinking water is important in the cold, because we’re so used to feeling thirsty in hot weather. But staying well hydrated is an important part of any outdoor winter adventure.

Eric recommends taking a break every hour from your activity (hiking, skiing, etc.) for a drink. Make it a regular routine. Proper hydration maintains good blood flow and other bodily functions — helping you stay warm.

Filling a bottle up with hot water helps prevent it freezing, as does using an insulated container or cover of some kind. Drinking warm water keeps your body warm from the inside.

There are different types of cold too. For example, at the North Pole, the air is wet & humid (feels much colder). But Antarctica is basically a dry desert — so staying hydrated in that environment is more difficult.

Stay On Schedule

In cold winter camping situations, setting up and taking down your campsite takes longer than it does in the summer. It’s important to stay aware of what time it is.

For example, stopping early enough to prepare camp before the sun goes down. Timing regular snack and soup breaks to keep you warm during the day. But not too long — or you’ll quickly get cold standing around.

Using a weather-proof watch like the Promaster Altichron from Citizen, the same watch Eric uses on his expeditions, really makes this easy.

Not only does the watch hold up to the extreme -40 F temperatures found at the North Pole, it’s also powered by the sun, which means you never have to worry about dead batteries.

The Altichron features an integrated compass and altimeter too. Having backups of these adventure tools on your wrist, in something that won’t run out of battery power in cold weather, is handy for peace of mind.

Layering for Cold Weather
Fur Ruff, Goggles, and a Nose Break

Head & Neck Protection

There are many blood vessels near the skin’s surface on your head and neck. Exposing them to cold weather cools your blood down quickly, which then flows into the rest of your body lowering overall temperature.

Obviously a good winter hat that covers your ears is required. Fur lined hats or jacket hoods with a fur ruff work especially well, which is why they’re common in places like Siberia and Alaska.

Another piece of gear Eric recommended is a simple balaclava ski mask that only exposes part of the face.

Stretching a buff over everything holds your head warmth system together, in addition to providing yet another layer of protection. Remember, layers!

If it’s going to be windy, winter goggles and a face mask or homemade “nose break” will protect the last of your exposed skin while still allowing you to breathe freely.

Winter Camping Survival
Camping in the Snow

Winter Shelter Systems

You wouldn’t think the thin nylon walls of a tent would protect you much outside in the winter, but it can. In fact, even a shelter made of snow can keep you alive!

When choosing a shelter for survival in cold temperatures, pick a 4 seasons rated tent. A tent that’s specifically made for camping in the Spring, Summer, Fall, and Winter.

Four season tents have less mesh netting than 3 season tents, meaning they hold heat in better. Winter tents also come with larger vestibule areas where you can keep snow-covered boots and outerwear, outside.

Tramp down the snow to create a firm & level base for setting up your tent. Place the tent door perpendicular to the wind. Pile snow onto the bottom outside edges as an additional wind barrier.

Snow is a great insulator! So if you ever find yourself stuck in the wilderness without a tent, building an emergency snow-cave shelter may help you survive the night.

Fuel Your Body

On Eric’s two month long ski expeditions to the Earth’s poles, the weight of his sled full of supplies can top 300 pounds. So maximizing food calories while also minimizing weight is essential.

To be as efficient as possible, he prefers to remove meals from their original fancy packaging, using thin plastic bags instead. He also packs each day’s meals together for easy & quick access.

Choose foods that can be eaten cold or require very little prep time. Granola. Salami. Cheese. Trail mix.

Eating food is like putting fuel on a fire. Your metabolism kicks into action to digest it, heating up your core body temperature and radiating outwards through the bloodstream.

Instant soup is also a regular staple of Eric’s arctic diet. He prepares it in the morning, storing in an insulated flask for later. Eating hot soup is wonderful for emotional support, hydration, and warmth.

Cold Weather Camping Trip
My Polar Training Tent Crew

Sleeping In The Cold

You are not going to have a great time on your cold weather adventure if you can’t recharge with a good night’s sleep! That’s why it’s so important to pack a warm & comfortable sleep system.

You lose way more heat from the ground through conduction than you do from the air. So during our training we used two sleeping pads — at least one made of closed-cell foam, the other can be an insulated inflatable type.

To stay warm in -16 degree F temperatures, I used a 0F/-18C down sleeping bag that cinched up close to my face keeping the heat inside, as well as a 20F bag over that. This way if any frost builds up inside the tent, it doesn’t penetrate into your main bag.

Before going to bed, we also filled a Nalgene bottle with boiling water and placed it inside our sleeping bags. This makeshift hot-water bottle will radiate heat for about 5 hours of bliss.

Cooking in the Tent
Winter Stove Training

Frostbite & Hypothermia

The dangers of cold weather travel are real, and include frostbite and hypothermia. So I wanted to talk a bit about how to identify and treat these conditions.

Frostbite is when yo­ur skin falls below the freezing point, causing ice crystals to form in your cells, killing them. Your skin will change color to red, then white, and if it’s really bad, black.

It’s very important to warm your skin gradually. Sticking your fingers or toes into hot water can make it worse! Instead, try your armpits. Or soaking in luke-warm water.

Hypothermia is when your body loses more heat than it produces, and your core body temperature drops. Symptoms include slurred speech, loss of coordination, uncontrollable shivering, and mental confusion.

To treat hypothermia, it’s important to remove wet clothing and put on dry stuff, get into a sleeping bag, break out the emergency space blanket, start a fire, etc. Warm up as soon as possible.

Eric believes in the importance of being “selfish” during cold-weather adventures. In order for the whole team to function, each member needs to pay attention to their own health & comfort.

So if you’re feeling a bit cold, it’s ok to stop the group and put on another layer — before it turns into more serious problems that will affect everyone later (like caring for frostbite or hypothermia).

Tips For Cold Weather
Skiing Over the Ice

Emergency Cold Weather Gear

Maybe you aren’t planning a trek to the North Pole. Or even spending one night winter camping. But on regular winter day hikes or car trips, you should still have some basic cold weather emergency gear with you:

  • Fire-starting kit with waterproof matches & lighter
  • 3/4 piece of closed-cell foam pad insulation
  • Emergency bivy bag and space blanket
  • Spare hat & gloves
  • Extra fleece mid-layer
  • Chemical hand-warmers/heat packs

Your chances of surviving the night outside in the cold without these essentials drops significantly, so it’s wise to pack them with you just in case.

Maybe you get injured. Maybe the weather changes. Maybe you get lost. Maybe your car breaks down.

No one ever plans on getting into trouble. It just happens!

North Pole: The Last Degree

Trekking around Manitoba’s frozen Lake Winnipeg and learning polar expedition skills from Eric stoked my enthusiasm for future cold-weather adventures. His advice has really helped me become better prepared.

Many of my fellow students are planning expeditions of their own to the North Pole, South Pole, or crossing Greenland’s ice cap! Hanging out with them was pretty inspiring.

Right now Eric is leading his next Arctic expedition, a North Pole Last Degree trip.

This means participants fly up to the 89th parallel and then proceed to ski the last 60 nautical miles to the Geographic North Pole. It takes about 12 days.

You can follow along on his latest polar journeys through his blog and Instagram feed. ★


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I hope you enjoyed my guide on how to survive cold weather like a polar explorer! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:


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Surfing & Hot Springs In Tofino On Vancouver Island https://expertvagabond.com/tofino-vancouver-island/ Tue, 08 Aug 2017 14:37:47 +0000 https://expertvagabond.com/?p=22738 The second half of my Vancouver Island road trip took me to the island's West coast, and the fun little hipster surf town of Tofino. It's a lush wilderness outpost on the edge of the sea.

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Vancouver Island Coastline

Exploring Vancouver Island’s West Coast

Vancouver Island, Canada

The second half of my Vancouver Island road trip took me to the island’s West coast, and the fun little hipster surf town of Tofino. It’s a lush wilderness outpost on the edge of the sea.

I was on a self-drive road trip with Canada By Design — their Coastal Cultural Explorer Tour of Vancouver Island.

Which means I was following a basic itinerary, while my accommodation, a rental car, and some activities were included in the price.

This 8-day journey across Canada’s Vancouver Island was mixed with adventure, a taste of First Nation’s culture, and dramatic Pacific Northwest scenery.

Yet I was on my own, taking my time to enjoy this road trip at my own pace.

Driving To Tofino

For the first half of the journey, I’d explored parts of Vancouver Island’s East coast. Today’s drive was a long one (about 6 hours) which took me across the island from Telegraph Cove to Tofino over the stunning Pacific Rim Highway.

I managed to drop into some native art galleries, hiked an ancient old-growth rainforest, and enjoyed beautiful mountain scenery and lakes along the way.

First Nations Longhouse

K’ómoks Longhouse Mural

iHos Gallery Vancouver Island

iHos Gallery in Courtenay

First Nations Art Galleries

During this road trip around Vancouver Island, I’m constantly reminded of the deep history of the landscape, first populated by the peoples of the First Nations around 7,000 years ago.

Driving into Courtenay, I stumble upon a K’ómoks native longhouse, decorated with a colorful mural featuring an eagle & whale. These cedar buildings were often shared by extended First Nations families, everyone participating in daily tasks like preparing food, building canoes, etc.

At I-Hos Gallery, local people express their identity through art. This gallery, with its masks, wood carvings, intricate prints and textiles, is designed to tell stories as much as please the senses.

Stories of origins, about their technological and spiritual relationship with the natural world, about how they lived, how they died, and how they endured to become modern descendants of First Nations cultures.

Vancouver Island Goats on a Roof

Goats?! On a Roof?

Coombs Vancouver Island Goats

Coombs Old Country Market

Goats On A Roof!

My eyes started to play tricks as I entered the town of Coombs. What first looked like a green hill with goats appeared to become the roof of a long, wood-pannelled building.

I found them. Vancouver Island’s famous “Goats On The Roof!”

In the 1950s, Kristian Graaten and his wife, Solveig, left Norway and emigrated to British Columbia.

When they decided to build a market in the mid-70s, Kris used the Norwegian tradition of lining roofs with grass/sod. It may sound eccentric, but this roof traps the warmth of the building, reducing heating bills up to 25%.

It’s also soundproof, easy to maintain, and the perfect place to keep your pet goats! Which has turned into a huge tourist attraction for his roadside Coombs Old Country Market, a fun location to stop for lunch.

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Cathedral Grove Vancouver Island

Yes, I’m a Tree Hugger


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Vancouver Island MacMillan Park

MacMillan Provincial Park


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Hiking Cathedral Grove

A twenty-minute drive west, and things got even more vertical. If you’ve never seen a majestic Douglas Fir, your first sight can be overwhelming.

Imagine the average fir tree, the kind you’d hang your Christmas ornaments on. Now double it in size. Now double it again. Maybe a third time. Now you’re getting close – but maybe not close enough, since a fully-grown Douglas fir can reach 225 ft / 75 m into the sky!

At the heart of MacMillan Provincial Park stands Cathedral Grove, home of the densest collection of these trees. It’s an opportunity to stretch your arms around their trunks, failing to make it even halfway (the widest has a circumference of 27 ft / 9 m).

When you stand there in the quiet, gazing up towards the distant canopy where the treetops meet the sunlight, it feels unchanging, like time itself has stopped to listen. Some of these trees are 800 years old.

Tofino on Vancouver Island

Ice House Oyster Bar in Tofino

Tofino Town Vancouver Island

Beware of Grandma… She Bites!

Welcome To Tofino

Making it across the width of Vancouver Island, I finally arrive to the quirky Pacific coastal town of Tofino. A place I’ve heard so much about.

Tofino is the gateway to Vancouver Island’s wildest and most spectacular scenery, and in the summer, it’s an enormously popular destination for visitors, greatly multiplying its small local population of 2,000.

Pacific Rim National Park is right next door, a 500-kilometer expanse of rainforest trails, rugged wave-battered coastlines and pristine beaches.

However it’s best to visit in the summer months, as winter conditions can get a little fierce (it’s a haven for storm-watchers in the winter).

Tofino is ideal for hiking, surfing, hanging out at the beach, wildlife viewing, or just strolling down boardwalk paths through pacific northwest temperate rainforests.

Vancouver Island Whale Watching

Pod of Orca Whales

Black Bear Tofino

Black Bear Feeding On Crabs

Hot Springs Vancouver Island

Hot Springs Cove

Whale Watching & Hot Springs

You can’t visit Tofino and not go whale watching! But I’ll give you a tip, rather than take a dedicated whale watching trip, join the Hot Springs Cove Tour with Remote Passages.

Because there’s a very good chance you’ll see whales (and other wildlife) on your way to the hot springs. Like I did. It’s like two tours in one.

As part of the Maquinna Marine Provincial Park, Hot Springs Cove gets its name from the nearby Ramsay hot springs (it hits up to 50 C / 110 F in places), which are only accessible by boat or float-plane.

The trip had us speeding through the waves in an inflatable zodiac, stopping to watch playful Orcas (don’t call them killer whales!), large sea lions, sea otters, and even a black bear fishing for crabs on the coastline.

After the boat ride, it was time to relax by soaking in these steaming-hot natural pools & waterfalls while enjoying an epic view.

Surfing in Tofino

Long Beach Surf Shop

Vancouver Island Surfing

Surfing Chesterman Beach

Surfing Around Tofino

If you surf, or want to learn, Tofino is a good place to hit some waves. In fact they call themselves the Surf Capital of Canada. Although keep in mind this is the Pacific Northwest, and chilly 50 – 60 F water means you’ll want a wetsuit.

There are a few surf-shops in town that can outfit you with a board, wetsuit, and even a surfboard car rack. I stopped into Long Beach Surf Shop and rented a longboard for a morning surf session at Chesterman Beach.

Tofino is a surfer’s paradise – so if you’ve been following my surfing adventures, you can imagine my reaction to these miles and miles of surfable coastline, reliable beach breaks, and uncrowded waves.

There are a few good surf-spots in the area, and waves for all abilities. Long Beach is a popular spot, a 15-km stretch of undeveloped coastline that’s regarded as the park’s most photogenic.

Chesterman Beach and Cox Bay are two more. Winter usually has the better swells, and fewer tourists — but crazier weather and colder water too.

Coastal Sunset in Tofino

Colorful Tofino Sunsets

Tofino Sea Plane Trips

Take a Scenic Flight with Tofino Air

Places To Stay & Eat

As part of my Coastal Cultural Explorer Self-Drive Tour, accommodation in Tofino was included at the stunning cliffside Middle Beach Lodge.

For good food, I recommend checking out Wolf In The Fog for dinner, and Tacofino for a delicious food truck experience at lunch.

Tofino has a super fun farmer’s market every Saturday, where you can sample all kinds of good food, or pick up some locally-made artwork/crafts.

If you’re looking for a great place to watch the sunset with a beer and some fresh oysters, check out Tofino’s Ice House Oyster Bar. Thank me later. ★

Bonus Video! Vancouver Island Road Trip


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Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

Recommended Guidebook: Lonely Planet Pacific Northwest
Suggested Reading: Island Of Dreams
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Vancouver Island Road Trip. More at expertvagabond.com
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Vancouver Island Road Trip. More at expertvagabond.com
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READ MORE CANADA TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my guide on Vancouver Island! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:

Have any questions about visiting Vancouver Island? Are you planning a trip? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

Canada By Design

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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Vancouver Island Road Trip: Whales, Waterfalls, & First Nations Culture https://expertvagabond.com/vancouver-island-road-trip/ Thu, 03 Aug 2017 13:32:07 +0000 https://expertvagabond.com/?p=22697 Just when we're about to give up, a group of humpback whales appear above the water, feeding on a school of fish swimming in the turbulent coastal currents off Vancouver Island.

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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Vancouver Island Flowers

My Vancouver Island Road Trip

Vancouver Island, Canada

Just when we’re about to give up searching, a group of humpback whales pop their heads above the water, feeding on a school of fish swimming in the turbulent coastal currents. Then they dive below, flashing us glimpses of massive tails.

But the whales come later in this tale. My first impression of Vancouver Island is not whales, but trees. So many trees.

They rise in a green wall on each side of the road, or fall away to reveal incredible views of cliffs, rivers, inlets, the straits that separate it from the mainland, or the endless sweep of the Pacific to the west.

There’s no doubt about it: Vancouver Island is a natural wonderland.

I arrive to the island by ferry, just a 2 hour journey from the city of Vancouver to Nanaimo. After driving off the boat, I grab some breakfast at a coffee shop in town, and begin my 8 day Vancouver Island road trip.

Vancouver Island Driving Adventure

Canada by Design Self-Drive Tour

Vancouver Island Highway

Exploring Vancouver Island’s Wilderness

Canada By Design Self-Drive Tour

This is not your typical road trip. I took a self-drive tour with Canada By Design – specifically, their 8-day Coastal Cultural Explorer, starting and ending in Vancouver.

As you’d imagine, the itinerary takes in all the most beautiful spots on this mesmerizing, rugged stretch of coastline – but as the title suggests, it’s also designed to open your mind as well as your eyes, giving you a taste of the inhabitants’ rich, culturally fruitful relationship with this vast expanse of natural beauty, both now and in the past.

While some aspects of the trip have been planned (accommodation, rental car, and a few activities) I’m basically free to move at my own pace, and take side-excursions whenever I see something fun along the way.

Canada By Design’s local experts put together a general itinerary for me to follow along with recommendations. But there is plenty of free time to figure stuff out on my own too — and have a real adventure.

As someone who prefers independent travel over group tours, this is an ideal mix of convenience and freedom.

I don’t have to worry about the more tedious aspects of planning a trip, and can just relax and enjoy the discovery of a new travel destination.

Vancouver Island Kayaking

Sea Kayaking on Quadra Island

Vancouver Island Wildlife

Wild Deer On the Side of the Road

Lighthouse on Quadra Island

Cape Mudge Lighthouse

Exploring Quadra Island

My first stop is Quadra Island, which crumbles off Vancouver Island on the eastern side, marking the passage northwest into Johnstone Strait.

Many hundreds of years ago, long before Europeans set foot on these shores, it was called “Tsa-Kwa-Luten” – gathering place in the Kwak’wala tongue.

Based on the relics and carvings discovered in this area, it was well-named.

I spent my time wandering around the island, hiking some trails, photographing wildlife like deer and bald eagles, and rented a sea kayak with Quadra Island Kayaks to paddle along the coast.

Sea kayaking is a popular sport here – there’s tons of varied coastline to explore.

I saw seals playing off the side of my boat, and watched jellyfish float under the surface of the water. Some of the smaller islands also have colorful starfish clinging to the rocks.

Cape Mudge Vancouver Island

Tsa-Kwa-Luten Lodge

Totem Pole on Quadra Island

Nuyumbalees Cultural Center

Vancouver Island Bald Eagle

Bald Eagles Nesting Nearby

Tsa-Kwa-Luten Lodge

My home for 2 nights is Tsa-Kwa-Luten Lodge, located within a large peaceful forest on the coastline of Discovery Passage. The lodge, owned by the Laichwiltach people, is built on the site of a former First Nations village.

It’s decorated with indigenous art from the area, and surrounded by wildlife like deer, bald eagles, and seals. In the early morning at low-tide, you can find ancient petroglyphs carved into rocks on the shoreline.

A short drive away from the lodge is the Nuyumbalees Cultural Center, which displays an array of Native artifacts of cultural, artistic and historic value to the Kwakwaka’wakw people.

Potlatch masks, totem poles, ceremonial costumes, and more. The craftsmanship was incredible!

Telegraph Cove Vancouver Island

Telegraph Cove, BC

Telegraph Cove Sea Plane

Sea Plane Parked In The Cove

Wildlife & History In Telegraph Cove

Driving further North, my next stop was the tiny former lumber/canning community of Telegraph Cove. With a population of only 20, this is one small town!

However it feels like a picture postcard, nestled on the edge of a tiny bay in the middle of the Pacific North West wilderness. These days tourism is the main draw, wildlife fans visit for access to excellent whale watching, grizzly bear viewing, sea kayaking, and fishing.

In the morning I met with Mike Willie, owner of Sea Wolf Adventures, for a local whale watching & First Nations cultural experience on his inflatable zodiac speed boat.

Mike is a member of the Musgamakw Dzawada‘enuxw First Nation, and his family has lived off this land for generations.

First Nations Wooden Mask

Ceremonial Mask at U’mista Cultural Center

Vancouver Island First Nations

Mike Willie of the Musgamakw Dzawada‘enuxw

U’mista Cultural Center

Before we go looking for humpback whales, Mike takes me to Alert Bay and the U’mista Cultural Center to learn about some sad history.

In 1884, the Canadian government outlawed the most important of all ceremonies performed by Canada’s First Nations – the Potlatch – to assimilate and acculturate the country’s indigenous people.

Half a century of arrests and confiscations later, cultural treasures of the Kwakwaka’wakw remained scattered.

Today U’mista works to promote the Kwakwaka’wakw language and culture, and to preserve the heritage of the 5,500 Kwakwaka’wakw making a living in and around modern Vancouver Island.

The center sits next to a recently demolished Indian Residential School, a tragic part of Canada’s history.

Humpback Whale Tail in the Water

Humpback Whale Watching

Whale Watching Telegraph Cove

Searching For Whales With Sea Wolf Adventures

Whale Watching In The Rain

So after a somewhat depressing yet eye-opening experience learning about Canada’s indigenous First Nations history, it was time to cheer up and head out on the whale watching part of our wildlife & cultural trip.

Mike knows these waters like the back of his hand, and it wasn’t long before we came across a pod of three giant humpback whales feeding on fish along a roiling tidal current.

It was mesmerizing watching the massive animals crest the surface of the water, arching their back in the “hump” shape they’re named after, before diving into the depths with a flick of their large tail fins.

Humpbacks are about as large as a school bus, growing up to 60 feet long and weighing 40 tons!

Myra Falls Vancouver Island

Myra Falls in Strathcona Provincial Park

Strathcona Provincial Park

I had some more time to venture off my itinerary, so I decided to visit Vancouver Island’s largest provincial park, called Strathcona. The park is known for it’s many lakes, mountains, waterfalls, and glaciers.

The drive through Strathcona Provincial Park was spectacular, tons of amazing scenery to take in on the winding mountain roads. Not very busy at all, I was able to stop at a few overlooks and a waterfall called Myra Falls.

Much of the park was empty, too far for most Vancouver Island tourists to venture, but well worth the trip if you have the time! If I had more myself, I would have loved to do some overnight hikes in the area.

Road Tripping Vancouver Island

After experiencing the nature, wildlife, and culture of North Eastern Vancouver Island, it was time to drive to the opposite coast and see what the West side had to offer.

Make sure to read PART 2 of my Vancouver Island road trip, where I visit an ancient rainforest, take a dip in some natural hot-springs, catch a glimpse of orcas and bears – plus give cold-water surfing a try. ★

Bonus Video! Vancouver Island Road Trip


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Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
Self-Drive Tour: Canada By Design

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

Recommended Guidebook: Lonely Planet Pacific Northwest
Suggested Reading: Island Of DreamsPlaces
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Vancouver Island Road Trip. More at expertvagabond.com
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Vancouver Island Road Trip. More at expertvagabond.com
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READ MORE CANADA TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my Vancouver Island road trip guide! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:

Have any questions about visiting Vancouver Island? Are you planning a trip? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

Canada By Design

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Snowboarding Above The Clouds At Whistler https://expertvagabond.com/snowboarding-whistler/ Thu, 19 Feb 2015 11:03:10 +0000 https://expertvagabond.com/?p=21153 We finally broke through low-hanging clouds into blue sky, revealing snow covered peaks in every direction. I felt a rush of excitement gazing out at Whistler's steep terrain.

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Snowboarding Whistler BC

Whistler, BC, Canada

We finally broke through low-hanging clouds into blue sky, revealing snow covered peaks in every direction. I felt a rush of excitement gazing out at Whistler’s steep terrain.

Over 13 inches of snow had fallen in the last 2 days. Rising early for first tracks, I could hear muffled blasts of avalanche explosives on the lift ride up.

I was visiting Whistler for the first time with Kiersten from The Blonde Abroad to check activities off our LifeProof Winter Bucket List, and snowboarding was my number one priority.

The Whistler-Blackcomb mountains have been teasing me in my dreams for years. It had been a few years since my last big snowboarding adventure — and there’s nothing quite like the anticipation of a solid powder day after a long stretch of no action.

Crazy Whistler Terrain

Snowing Whistler Blackcomb

Whistler-Blackcomb Ski Resort

Whistler-Blackcomb is the largest ski resort in North America, ranked #1 overall in SKI Magazine’s annual reader poll for 2015. With 2 separate mountains, 200+ runs, 39 lifts and 8,000 acres of terrain, it’s a skiing & snowboarding paradise.

Especially when you take into account the 38 feet of annual snowfall it receives due to its proximity to the Pacific. Combine that with 3 glaciers, incredible backcountry, and a world-class mountain village — it becomes obvious why readers continue to vote for it year after year.

Would the mountain live up to its famous reputation? I was about to find out.

Blackcomb Mountain in Whistler

Snowboarding Whistler

Riding Above The Clouds

Weather conditions at Whistler can be deceiving. While it may appear dark & gloomy in the valley, once you rise above the clouds it might be a perfect blue-bird day. You never really know until you see for yourself.

I spent 7 days on the mountain over the course of 2 weeks up in Whistler. Most of that time was riding the high ridges, bowls, and glades on Blackcomb Mountain. Places with names like Hortsman Glacier, Secret Bowl, and the 7th Heaven Everglades.

The sheer amount of terrain to explore is difficult to grasp.

A few days is not enough time to experience everything, hell I rode for a week and didn’t see it all. I fully understand why so many people from around the world decide to become ski bums here… I almost got sucked in too!

The thought of spending all winter on these mountains was tempting.

Peak 2 Peak Whistler Blackcomb

Tree Runs Whistler

Outstanding Terrain

I grew up skiing and snowboarding in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, eventually moving to Montana’s Rocky Mountains in college. So it has been a long-time passion of mine — floating through trees in deep powder, speeding down fast groomers, dropping into open bowls, or launching over small cliffs.

Whistler has everything you could possibly want. I couldn’t believe the type of runs you have lift access to! Steep chutes and heavenly bowls all around. In Montana you’d be forced to hike for this stuff.

Here it was only a short stroll away from the lift…

Another marvel is Whistler-Blackcomb’s Peak 2 Peak gondola, which takes you between the mountains on a 3 mile journey over dizzying heights of 1400 feet.

This remarkable lift holds multiple records — a scenic adventure all by itself.

Whistler Accommodation

Canadian Poutine

Whistler Village

A good ski town vibe is the heart of a great mountain. Whistler Village is modern and fun, with plenty of activities to keep you busy off the slopes.

Where To Eat

For a quick and unhealthy (yet delicious!) lunch, stuff yourself with a hearty plate of Canadian poutine made of cheese curds, gravy, and fries at Zogs Dogs. Head to Merlins Bar & Grill at the base of Blackcomb for the best Après-ski experience in town. For a proper dinner, you can’t go wrong with the Bearfoot Bistro. Make sure to chug vodka in their ice room!

Accommodation

Hotels in Whistler can be expensive, but you might get lucky renting a condo with FlipKey like we did. High rollers tend to stay at the beautiful Fairmont Hotel, and you’ll find ski bums on a budget at the HI Hostel a few minutes down the road.

Other Activities

Along with snowboarding in Whistler, we also went snowmobiling with The Adventure Group, dogsledding with Blackcomb Dog Sled, and took a scenic helicopter tour with Blackcomb Aviation. Check out clips from these adventures in my video below.

Covered Bridge Whistler

Inukshuk Statue Whistler

Snowboarding Whistler

It’s always been a dream of mine to go snowboarding at Whistler-Blackcomb in BC, and it certainly lived up to the hype. With an almost unlimited choice of terrain for all skill levels, generous gifts from the powder gods, and a vibrant ski-town, Canada’s most famous ski resort is famous for a reason. ★

Watch Video: LifeProof Winter Bucket List


Subscribe to my YouTube Channel for new Adventure Travel Videos!

(Click to watch LifeProof Winter Bucket List – Whistler on YouTube)

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Location: Whistler, BC, Canada
Accommodation: FlipKey Vacation Rentals

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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Snowboarding Above The Clouds At Whistler! More at expertvagabond.com
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READ MORE CANADA TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my guide on Vancouver Island! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:

Do you ski or snowboard? Ever been to Whistler?

LifeProof

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Motorcycle Road Trip In The Canadian Rockies https://expertvagabond.com/motorcycle-road-trip-canada/ Mon, 14 Oct 2013 11:11:34 +0000 https://expertvagabond.com/?p=19148 This summer I rented a Harley Davidson motorcycle for a Canadian Rockies road trip through beautiful national parks in both Alberta and British Columbia.

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Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Bow Lake & Glacier

Canada

This summer I rented a Harley Davidson motorcycle for a Canadian Rockies road trip through beautiful national parks in both Alberta and British Columbia. The area is full of scenic landscapes and diverse wildlife.

The motorcycle road trip began in Calgary. I was able to rent a Harley online before arriving in Canada, picking out a black 2013 Street Glide I nicknamed “Black Betty”.

At 1600 cc’s, she is a beast. To practice handling her on the road, I initially avoided the Trans-Canada Highway, enjoying the scenic and winding route 1A West towards Canmore.

Banff National Park was next, motoring North along the famous Icefields Parkway. Passing pristine turquoise blue lakes and ancient snow-covered glaciers along the way. Deer and elk were plentiful on the sides of the road.

After slowly making my way to the town of Jasper enjoying the epic views and cold fresh air whipping past, I grabbed a bite to eat in town, and found a nearby Hosteling International hostel to spend the night.

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Bull Elk Sighting

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Red Footbridge in Kootenay National Park

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Saskatchewan Glacier

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Climbing Parker Ridge

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Downtown Banff

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Kicking Horse Pedestrian Bridge

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Enjoying Back Roads in the Canadian Rockies

The Golden Triangle

My motorcycle adventure through the Rockies continued when I reversed direction and sped back through Icefields Parkway with completely different views. Stopping for a few hours to stretch my legs with a hike to the very top of Parker Ridge, overlooking snow-covered Mt. Athabasca.

The slow-moving and impressive Saskatchewan Glacier carving its way into the valley below.

Next it was on to the Golden Triangle, a scenic motorcycle route that takes you into 3 different national parks: Banff, Yoho, and Kootenay. Right in the middle of the action is the small town of Golden, British Columbia. It’s not nearly as touristy as Banff, costs a lot less, and is surrounded by 5 different national parks.

Following the stop-off in Golden, Black Betty and I proceeded South down route 95 to Radium Hot Springs, turning East into Kootenay National Park. The road slices right into Sinclair Canyon before winding its way through the wilderness along the ice-cold Kootenay river. It was the perfect road to maneuver my powerful Street Glide through the curves.

I finished the Golden Triangle route in Banff before heading back to Calgary to drop the bike off and complete my Harley Davidson motorcycle road trip through some of Canada’s greatest national parks. It was one hell of an adventure!

SEE ALSO: Vancouver Island, Canada Road Trip

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Icefields Parkway Ride

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Mountains of Banff National Park

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Entrance to Kootenay National Park

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Cruising the Trans-Canada Highway

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Lake Moraine in Banff

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Funny Pika Rodents

Motorcycle Road Trip Canada

Canadian Pacific Railroad

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Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip.

Book Your Flight

Ready to fly? Here’s how I find the cheapest airline flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find a deal.

Cheap Accommodation

Learn how I save money booking hotels & vacation apartments.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read why you should always carry travel insurance.
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READ MORE CANADA TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my guide on Vancouver Island! Hopefully you found it useful. Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:

Ever been on a motorcycle road trip before?

Harley Davidson

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

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