Studying Spanish in Guatemala

San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala

While traveling through Guatemala I spent 3 weeks taking Spanish classes and staying with a local family on Lake Atitlan. Here’s a rundown of my experience.

Guatemala is one of the best countries in the world to visit if you’d like to learn Spanish. It’s not too far from the United States, classes are inexpensive, and locals naturally speak slowly without using too much slang.

Plus, if you’d like to learn Spanish fast, there’s no better way then to be totally immersed in the culture & language for an extended period of time.

I decided to study in the town of San Pedro La Laguna on Lake Atitlan, located in the Guatemalan Highlands of the Sierra Madre mountains.

This massive lake is surrounded by volcanoes, colorful wildflowers, and traditional Maya villages. A picture perfect setting to learn Spanish.

Beautiful Lake Atitlan

My Home for 3 Weeks

Spanish School In Guatemala

I went to Cooperative School San Pedro on Lake Atitlan (Lago de Atitlan). It’s a true cooperative started by a group of experienced Spanish teachers who believe they have a responsibility to their community.

In general it’s recommended to take at least 3 weeks of Spanish classes to get a basic grasp on the language. You can choose between 3-6 hours of instruction per day, either morning or afternoon classes.

Homestays are available or you can find your own accommodation.

I paid $205 USD per week for 4 hours of class per day, 5 days per week, which also included my homestay plus 3 meals a day. It was a great deal!

Lake Atitlan has a laid-back hippy vibe, and the landscape around the lake is breathtaking with many outdoor activities nearby. However Antigua & Quetzaltenango (Xela) are also popular towns for learning Spanish.

Xela is a larger city, while Antigua is a bit more touristy.

Friends of mine have recommended ICA Spanish School in Xela and Antigua Plaza School in Antigua if you’re looking to stay there instead.

Spanish Class with Flori

Typical Day At Class

There are a few different options for class schedules, however I choose 4 hours of one-on-one Spanish instruction per day, five days a week. My teacher was Flori, a local woman who’s been teaching for years.

She always seemed upbeat and excited to teach as we sat in the shade overlooking Lake Atitlan.

After a general evaluation of my Spanish skills (almost non-existent in my case), Flori gave me a refresher course on rules of Spanish and helped improve my vocabulary using fun games and written exercises.

There were homework assignments every night too…

My Spanish quickly improved with regular daily instruction, and I was finally able to communicate with my Guatemalan host family and other locals.

Three weeks of class wasn’t enough to become fluent, but traveling through Central America was MUCH easier because I could understand a lot more and make myself understood.

Even though I probably sounded like a 5 year old!

Guatemalan Homestay

Local Maya Host Family

The Homestay Experience

While taking Spanish school in Guatemala I stayed with the Bixcul-Pichilla family in their small two-story cinderblock home nestled at the bottom of Volcano San Pedro.

It was super difficult to communicate at first, as they don’t speak any English. Only Tzujill (a local Mayan language) & some Spanish.

I had my own bedroom, and the family of 5 shared 3 others. We also had a basic kitchen and open-air courtyard. Living this way was an eye-opening experience for me, very different from the “comfortable” American lifestyle I’m used to.

There was a bathroom in the courtyard, and a sink area used for washing clothes, cleaning dishes, brushing teeth, shaving — pretty much everything.

Water was delivered via pipes once or twice a week, where it’s stored in drums for later use. Occasionally it would run out if we used too much.

Climbing San Pedro Volcano

Traditional Wooden Canoe

Activities Nearby

Like I mentioned earlier, the Lake Atitlan area is full of cool things to do. So when I got sick of trying to memorize new Spanish words, I’d take a break and get outside for a Guatemalan adventure!

Volcano Hikes

Lake Atitlan is surrounded by volcanoes. Hiking these is a great way to get some exercise and capture epic photos of the landscape. Two of the most popular hikes are Volcano San Pedro and La Nariz de Indio.

Lake Kayaking

Rent a kayak and explore Lake Atitlan up-close. Or if you’re feeling REALLY adventurous, find a local fisherman willing to rent out his traditional wooden canoe. They aren’t easy to navigate!

Scuba Diving

Yes, you can go scuba diving under the lake here, and apparently there’s interesting stuff to see. Like freshwater crabs, underwater volcanic hot-vents, and flooded hotels. ATI Divers is located in the town of Santa Cruz.

Coffee Tours

Coffee is a big deal in Guatemala, and the nutrient-rich volcanic slopes around Lake Atitlan are covered in coffee farms. A coffee tour allows you to experience the fascinating coffee production process from start to finish.

Maya Villages

There are 12 Maya villages spread out around the shores of Lake Atitlan, with many only accessible by boat or on foot. My favorites were Santiago, San Juan, and San Marcos. Walk the cobblestone streets, visit old churches, watch a local basketball game, and experience some Maya culture.

Community Outreach

Many of the Spanish schools in San Pedro give back to the community with social aid projects, and you can volunteer to help out by bringing food or building supplies to poor local families in need.

Church in San Pedro la Laguna

Santiago Streets

Tips & Advice For Studying Spanish

Panajachel is the main transportation hub for the Lake Atitlan area. A bus from Guatemala City to Panajachel takes 3-4 hours. Once at the lake, the best way to travel from village to village is by lancha (boat taxi). Prices vary, but are generally around 15-25q ($2-3 USD).

The temperature around Lago Atitlan fluctuates between 50 – 80 degrees (F), so it can get chilly at night. Larger towns like Panajachel & San Pedro have ATMs, but not all of them do.

When picking a Spanish school in Guatemala, keep a lookout for schools that funnel money into social aid projects for the local community. I’d also recommend staying in a homestay for the same reason, that money goes a long way towards improving the lives of your host family.

For additional recommendations, talk to people who’ve actually attended the school you are interested in. Search travel blogs or online forums like Lonely Planet to read reviews of other schools. ★

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources For Guatemala” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]

Location:

San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala

Spanish School:

Cooperative School San Pedro

Total Cost:

$90 – $225 USD per week depending on hours/homestay

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

Recommended Reading: Lonely Planet Guatemala
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Any other questions about studying Spanish in Guatemala? Are you interested in traveling here? Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Traveling in Guatemala on a Budget

Budget Travel

Is it possible to travel in Guatemala on a budget? Learn how much it cost me to backpack in Guatemala — along with my favorite tips & highlights.

Overview

The first thing I want to say is that Guatemala is a very eclectic country. One moment you can be high up in cold mountains, and in the other you can be on a hot Caribbean beach. It is a beautiful country, and a dirty country. You can find pristine jungle forests as well as rivers filled with trash. Guatemala’s people speak over 23 different languages too!

I was planning on only spending a month here, but Guatemala’s magic sucked me in and I stayed for two. I’m not the only one to experience this magnetic attraction either, I heard from many travelers who had done similar things. Some people never even left…

People in Guatemala are a friendly bunch, but you have to make an effort to woo them. Initially you might receive an unfriendly stare, but as soon as you beam a warm smile and say “buenas!” their eyes will light up and you’re bound to make a new friend.

Safety in Guatemala was never much of an issue for me. The only time I felt on edge a bit was in the capital of Guatemala City. But even then, I spent 5 days in the city driving around with friends and even walking the streets after dark. Knowledge is power. Knowing where it is safe, and where it isn’t, is all you need to have a great time.

Guatemala Travel Costs:

Guatemala travel budgets can vary greatly. Here is a breakdown of how much money I spent over 2 months of travel there.

• Food & Drink: $575 US (groceries, restaurants, water, alcohol)
• Accommodation: $406 US (hostels, hotels, camping fees)
• Transportation: $126 US (buses, taxis, boats)
• Activities: $379 US (entrance fees, rentals, classes, tours, etc.)
• Miscellaneous: $120 US (laundry, sundries, souvenirs, visas, etc.)

TOTAL DAYS = 62

TOTAL SPENT = $1606 US

DAILY AVERAGE = $26 US

Budget Notes: These figures include 3 weeks of Spanish language school. Staying in dorms at backpacking hostels and traveling by chicken bus and collectivos saved me a lot of money. So did cooking a majority of my own meals.

Highlights

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Lowlights

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Surprises

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My Guatemala Slideshow

Stories & Adventures From Guatemala

Planning to travel to Guatemala soon? Browse all my blog posts from Guatemala to get ideas & recommendations for your own adventures.

[button label=”Read Stories From Guatemala »” url=”https://expertvagabond.com/central-america/guatemala/” color=”#f05134″]

Final Thoughts

Traveling solo is teaching me to solve all kinds of problems on the fly, with little to no help from others. For example: How to retrieve my backpack from the top of a chicken bus while it’s still moving, so I can jump off before the driver speeds off again.

My patience is growing. A 10 hour bus ride is no big deal anymore. Either is a bone-rattling & wet water taxi trip, or getting crammed in the back of a small van with 25 other people. Sure these things are inconvenient, but not on the level they would have been if I was still living by US standards.

Guatemala will always hold a special place in my heart, and I will definitely be back to visit in the future!

Additional Examples?

My last trip to Guatemala was in 2010. Prices have probably changed a bit since then. We don’t all travel the same way either. So to help you get a better picture, here are a few Guatemala travel budgets from others:

• Guatemala Travel Costs from Nomadic Matt
• Guatemala Travel Costs from the Travel Chica
• Guatemala Travel Costs from Cheapest Destinations
• Guatemala Travel Costs from Getting Stamped
• Camping On Erupting Volcano In Guatemala

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources for Guatemala” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Book cheap flights on Skyscanner, my favorite airline search engine to find deals. Also read my tips for how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent local apartments on Airbnb ($35 discount!). Read my post for tips on booking cheap hotels.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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Have you ever traveled to Guatemala? What did you like or dislike?

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Kayaking the Río Dulce River

The Río Dulce is a large blue-green river that flows out of Guatemala into the ocean. Small communities of native Maya live simple lives alongside it in the jungle. Three hundred foot high cliffs tower above the river on either side.

Some local kids decided to race me on the river.

I felt like getting a little exercise and found out it’s possible to rent a kayak up the river a bit at a place called Finca Tatin and head down through the jungle canyon out to the ocean. I hired a water taxi from the town of Livingston to take me there. Finca Tatin is a hostel/campsite along the river in the middle of the jungle.

Local Wooden Dugout Canoe

After securing my craft, I made my way out onto the water. I passed many people traveling by Cayucos, the local dugout canoe. Some were fishing the river with nets, others seemed to be heading from their homes into town.

House Under Jungle Cliffs

Soon I entered the impressive Río Dulce canyon. The high cliffs were covered in thick green jungle, with small local homes scattered along the river’s edge. The area was full of life: fish jumping, cranes and pelicans flying overhead, I even saw a brightly colored river crab scurry away from me on some rocks.

Racing Local Kids on the River

Further down, some local kids decided to race me on the river. Me in my kayak, them in their wooden canoe. It was a brother & sister team. The race was close, but my kayak and I ended up winning.

I waved goodbye to them and tried to pick up my pace as the sun began to drop. Kayaking in the busy boat lane by the mouth of the river at dusk wouldn’t be very smart. I needed to get back to Livingston before nightfall.

Out Into the Ocean

I finally rounded the last bend of the Río Dulce before it empties out into the sea. The waves from the ocean were getting funneled into the mouth of the river, which made for some tricky paddling. This wasn’t exactly an ocean-going kayak I was in, and tipping with all my camera gear would not have been fun.

But I managed to keep it up past the worst of the waves and maneuver it through the fleet of fishing boats and into Livingston’s harbor. Thus my interesting day of exercise came to an end.

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources for Livingston, Guatemala” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]
Company: Finca Tatin
Cost: $60 Quetzales ($7.65 US) Kayak Rental
Difficulty: Moderate

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Book cheap flights on Skyscanner, my favorite airline search engine to find deals. Also read my tips for how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent local apartments on Airbnb ($35 discount!). Read my post for tips on booking cheap hotels.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Livingston Street Party New Years Day

There is a town on the coast of Guatemala that can only be accessed by boat. The small fishing village of Livingston is not like the rest of the country. There is a strong Afro-Caribbean influence here which makes it very unique.

I didn’t know senior citizens could party so hard!

I started my journey to Livingston by jumping on a water taxi after a crazy bone-rattling 5-hour pickup truck ride through the mountains. The hour-long boat ride ran along the Rio Dulce river, through a jungle canyon with 300 ft. high cliffs on either side and then out to sea.

I arrived in town on New Year’s Eve. After settling in, I went off in search of fireworks to help the local Garifuna people celebrate the new year. Little did I know, the real party started the next day!

Old Folks Getting Funky

Who’s Got The Rum?

While I was wandering around in the afternoon, I stumbled upon a Garifuna block party. Reagaton music blasted from a mobile DJ station on the back of a pickup truck while 65+ year old men & women danced in the street.

There were people of all ages there, but this older crowd was a bit larger and livelier than the rest! They were dressed in Sunday-Best clothes, and taking turns with a giant bottle of rum.

The energy was contagious, so I jumped in for a bit to join the fun. I didn’t know senior citizens could party so hard!

House Made of Mud

The Garifuna People

A majority of Livingston’s population is black. These are the Garifuna people, and they have an interesting story. It all started when an African slave ship shipwrecked near St. Vincent island in the Caribbean.

The people who came ashore mixed with the local Caribs. Many years later, the British invaded St. Vincent. After repelling them for many years, the locals finally surrendered. The British were afraid of the Garifuna, so they deported 5000 of them to the island of Roatán (part of Honduras). Only about half survived the trip.

Woman Selling Arroz con Leche

The island was too small to support them, so they eventually moved over to the mainland and built communities on the Caribbean coasts of Central America.

Livingston’s population is now a mix of Q’eqchi’ Maya and Garifuna. Everyone has a thick Caribbean accent, and a majority speak 3 different languages. The town supports itself with fishing and tourism. As expected, you can find fantastic food here.

Drying Fish in the Sun

In the mornings I would buy some Arroz con Leche from a local woman. It’s a hot mixture of milk, rice, sugar, and cinnamon. And of course the seafood in town was great!

The whole place had a very laid-back vibe, and it was nice to spend a few days there. Sitting at a quiet oceanside bar drinking a beer under palm trees for sunset is a great way to spend your time here.

I’m really glad I decided to spend New Years in Livingston, it was a completely different experience than I’m used to, and I loved it!

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources for Livingston, Guatemala” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]
Good Place to Sleep: Casa de la Iguana was where I stayed. It was cheap, but dirty. The people there made up for it though.
Good Place to Eat: Buga Mama

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Book cheap flights on Skyscanner, my favorite airline search engine to find deals. Also read my tips for how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent local apartments on Airbnb ($35 discount!). Read my post for tips on booking cheap hotels.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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READ MORE GUATEMALA TRAVEL TIPS

I hope you enjoyed my story about partying with the Garifuna of Livingston! Here are a few more wanderlust-inducing articles that I recommend you read next:

• My Budget Travel Guide To Guatemala
• Learning Spanish in Guatemala
• Visiting Guatemala City
• Starting My Travel Adventure?

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Semuc Champey Pools

Lanquin, Guatemala

After a picturesque hike through the Guatemalan jungle, I found paradise. The natural limestone bridge and turquoise blue pools of Semuc Champey had revealed themselves.

From the town of Lanquin, the national park of Semuc Champey is a bumpy and winding 40-minute pickup-truck ride into the jungle—and definitely not for the faint of heart (or the carsick).

Standing in the back of the truck, you get a great view of the scenery around you while thumping along the road.

Then the Cahabòn River comes into view for the first time.

As far as whitewater rafting and kayaking go, this river is pretty much as good as it gets in Guatemala. Stretching about 196 kilometers, it winds through caves and jungles, and snakes through the Semuc Champey land bridge.

Not to mention the river’s color—which is incredible—a strong bright turquoise blue that sharply stands out from the surrounding green jungle.

Though not totally undiscovered by tourists, Semuc Champey still definitely feels like a hidden wonder!

Semuc Champey Pools

A Jungle Paradise

After arriving to Semuc Champey and entering the park, a short but steep 45-minute hike will put you high up in the cliffs where you can look down at the beautiful limestone shelf far below.

This view is the money shot, so prepare accordingly. Some water still passes over the top of the shelf, which creates the magnificent blue-green pools and small waterfalls.

Hiking back down the other side of the viewpoint, you’ll meet up with the water itself. A short walk up-river reveals where the water rushes underground.

A few people have fallen in here before, never to be found again… so be careful!

Because of the risk, the park hired a guy to stand near the hole with a whistle to warn people when they get too close to the edge.

But putting all this aside, Semuc Champey is a must-visit if you’re traveling to Guatemala.

Cahabòn River Disappears Underground

Turquoise Pools of Semuc Champey

Semuc Champey Pools

Semuc Champey is a natural waterpark in the middle of nowhere. Some areas are deep enough to dive into from high points on the limestone shelf—but make sure you double check the depth yourself before diving in!

Since the water is so clear, you can see everything —- fish swimming in the pools, the rock surfaces, the sandy ground.

Semuc Champey’s limestone formations include little caves too, and you can swim into them and look out from underneath a waterfall. After a little exploring, I found one cave that was only accessible by swimming to it underwater.

In general, there’s no shortage of hidden enclaves at Semuc Champey, so be sure you leave enough time for adequate exploration.

Temperature-wise, the water is comfortable without being too warm, and provides much-needed refuge from the Guatemalan heat.

Semuc Champey Limestone Shelf

History Of The Area

Semuc Champey (which means “sacred water” in the Maya language) has always been renowned for its swimming spots, along with its 300-meter limestone formation under which the Cahabón River flows.

Despite the difficulty in getting here, Semuc Champey remains an attraction for visitors and locals alike.

The nearby town of Lanquín, established in 1540 (!), is home to about 16,500 people and situated at 380 meters above sea level.

Culturally speaking, this region of Guatemala is founded on the basic principle of q’eqchi’—which involves a deep respect of one’s natural surroundings and people.

Keep this in mind as you travel through, and the land will treat you as you treat it!

Hiking Above the River

Guatemalan Adventure

Although incredible, visiting the limestone pools at Semuc Champey is only part of the great Guatemalan adventure you can have, where every town and bumpy journey presents another chance to experience a rich, vibrant culture.

After spending the day diving from waterfalls, swimming into caves, and chasing fish around, it was time for me to head back to the town of Lanquin—a lovely little tropical enclave in its own right.

Because I didn’t go with a tour, I needed to hitch a ride back with someone.

On the way out of the park, I ran into another group of international travelers who had the same idea, and so we all started walking back to town after waiting for a while without seeing any trucks drive by.

We found a roadside bar and ordered a few cervezas while we waited. Roadside bars are common in Guatemala, and they present fantastic opportunities to meet fellow travelers and practice your Spanish.

Wildflowers in the Jungle

Stone Fire Pizza!

One truck finally stopped, and we tried to bargain with the driver on a price. Our efforts failed when he suddenly drove off without us!

It was getting dark, and we really didn’t want to walk 9 km (14 miles) through the jungle at night. Generally speaking though, it isn’t too difficult to hitch a ride in Guatemala. Just be sure you use good judgement, agree on a price beforehand, and never forget to smile.

Luckily another truck came by eventually, and we quickly agreed to his inflated price because sacrifices, sometimes, are necessary to make while traveling!

After getting dropped off in the center of town, I walked back to my hostel to enjoy another beer and some delicious stone-fire oven pizza. This was the perfect way to end an adventure at Semuc Champey National Park.

Hitching a Ride Back

How To Get to Semuc Champey

Your first order of business is to get to Lanquin. If you’re coming from Flores, Antigua or Guatemala City, you have the option of traveling by bus—which can take up to 12 hours.

The shortest trip would have to be from Guatemala City, which still will run about 6-8 hours.

Semuc Champey is only about 10 kilometers from Lanquin, but those 10 kilometers are particularly difficult to travel (which is, of course, all part of the fun).

In Lanquin, you’ll find a number of pick-up trucks ready and eager to take travelers to Semuc Champey. Many of these trucks are part of hostels, but pretty much anyone can hitch a ride with one of them.

The 40-minute drive to the pools is a ridiculously winding, bumpy journey, but the destination is well-worth any bruises gained in the process.

Tips For Visiting

Because of the effort and time involved in getting to both Lanquin and Semuc Champey, making it a day trip is more or less impossible.

If you’re trying to squeeze as much adventure as you can out of things, consider a 3 or 4-day journey down the river that can be paired with caving and visiting the Quirigua Mayan ruins.

Also, make sure you bring enough cash to Semuc Champey, as there is no ATM there (the closest is in Lanquin). The entrance fee to the park is roughly $6 USD.

You don’t need to go with a guided tour, however they do make getting to the park a bit easier. ★

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources for Semuc Champey, Guatemala” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]
Accommodation: Zephyr Lodge
Cost: $6 USD entry fee

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Book cheap flights on Skyscanner, my favorite airline search engine to find deals. Also read my tips for how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent local apartments on Airbnb ($35 discount!). Read my post for tips on booking cheap hotels.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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Have any questions about Semuc Champey? How beautiful does this place look?! Join the conversation on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter to share!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Entrance to Lanquin Caves

I spent 4 hours exploring deep, dark, & dirty caves filled with bats. Spelunking through these caverns at Lanquin was a lot more fun than I expected it would be, and there were a few surprises along the way.

I finally emerged from the earth, covered with mud & batshit.

The Q’eqchi’ Maya town of Lanquin is surrounded by a large network of caves. The local Maya have used them for hundreds of years as sacred places of ceremony and worship. They believe the cave is the “Heart of Heaven”. Armed with my camera, water, and a powerful headlamp, I walked from my hostel for 25 minutes to go exploring in the Lanquin caves.

The beginning of the cave system is lit with a few lightbulbs strung-up in the air, which helps show off how impressive they really are. Giant cathedral ceilings that must be at least 50 feet high, covered in amazing stalactite formations.

I wanted to visit the caves without a guide to save money and really take my time enjoying them, I’m certainly glad I did. Because I took the initiative to go early on my own, I had the whole place to myself!

Hidden Underground River

Time to Explore

Right away I found an unlit side chamber that I decided to explore. After a little bit of squeezing and sliding, I found an old iron ladder going down deeper. The whole area was covered in dazzling white limestone with specks of quartz or some other mineral that reflected the light of my headlamp.

When I turned off my light, everything went completely black. Sitting silently in the darkness, I heard water running in the distance. I decided to go on a bit further to see if I could find it. The source of the sound was an underground river running through the cave.

I was able to take a photo by setting up my Gorillapod Tripod and painting the area with the light from my headlamp as the camera took a long 30-second exposure. It took a few tries to get a good shot! (photo above)

Large Cave Chamber

Chamber of Bats

I climbed back out the way I had come, and continued on the regular lit pathway. Deeper in the cave now, the caverns just grew larger and larger. When the lights stopped, the cave kept going. I could hear noises back in the darkness and still wanted to explore.

It was getting hot in there, and I was dripping with sweat. After some more climbing and squeezing, I found the source of the noises… a huge colony of bats! They were high up on the ceiling of the cave, surrounded in complete darkness, so I couldn’t get a good photo.

Bats in Laguin Cave

Emerging from the Earth

But once I began heading back, they all started flying by me out to the entrance for a night of mosquito hunting. In the narrow areas of the cave, thousands of the flying mammals whizzed right past my head! It was crazy. Their echolocation senses are pretty impressive, none of the bats hit me at all.

Back at the entrance to the cave, it had become dark outside. The bats were still flying past me, off into the night. I finally emerged from the earth covered with mud & batshit. But I was smiling from ear to ear. :)

UPDATE:
I’ve since learned that repeated camera flashes are not good for the bats. It affects their ability to hunt at night. Try not to flash them too much.

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources for Lanquin, Guatemala” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]
Company: None
Cost: $30 Quetzales ($3.75 US)
Difficulty: Easy
Tips: You don’t need a guide, and you can walk for 25 minutes to the site from the town of Lanquin (or hitch a ride). Go before 4:30 pm to avoid other tourists. The bats start flying out at dusk.

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Book cheap flights on Skyscanner, my favorite airline search engine to find deals. Also read my tips for how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent local apartments on Airbnb ($35 discount!). Read my post for tips on booking cheap hotels.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Antigua, Guatemala

The city of Antigua was once the Capital of Guatemala. That was before major earthquakes destroyed most of it in the 1700’s.

Today it’s a picturesque town that attracts many local and international travelers.

I met the Vice President of Guatemala himself!

I’ve spent a few days here so far, and even though there are more tourists than some other places I’ve been to in Guatemala, there’s a reason for it. Antigua is very easy on the eyes!

It’s a colorful town, with many interesting ruined churches and monasteries to gaze at every few blocks.

New Friends

The area is tranquil and surrounded by mountains & volcanoes. December weather in Antigua is cold at night, but warm and sunny during the day.

The streets are filled with people and activity, it’s fun to just aimlessly walk around.

Antigua has many great restaurants too, but for Guatemalan standards, they’re a bit on the expensive side. Street food is plentiful though, and a trip to the market can score you a great meal for about $15 Quetzales ($1.80 US).

I met the Vice President of Guatemala the other day!  His name is Dr. José Rafael Espada, and his security convoy stopped so he could go furniture shopping with his wife.

With a crowd of onlookers and heavily armed G-2 men (Guatemalan Secret Service) surrounding him, he waved me over for a chat in the presence of a small news crew.

We talked in English for a few minutes about my travels, then he left with his body guards.

The best part was I didn’t find out who he was until AFTER I got done speaking with him! I just saw all the security, the news crew, the crowd, and assumed he was someone I should get photos of.

While we spoke to each other I pretended like I knew him, but later I had to ask a local: “who was that I just met?”.

The guy I asked thought it was hilarious.

I’ll be spending Christmas here in Antigua, and it should be a good time. I can tell there will be a lot of festivities. It will be tough not having family or close friends around, but that’s sometimes the price you pay for long-term travel.

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources for Antigua Guatemala” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]
Good Place to Sleep: Villa Esthela
Good Place to Eat: Tras la Puerta Verde (9a Calle & 2 Avenida Sur)
Tips: Check out Cafe No Se on the East end of town for a chill bar/lounge/cafe to hang out. If you get sick of tourists, walk to the other towns close by for a change of pace.

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Book cheap flights on Skyscanner, my favorite airline search engine to find deals. Also read my tips for how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent local apartments on Airbnb ($35 discount!). Read my post for tips on booking cheap hotels.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Xela, Guatemala

Guatemala’s active volcano Santiaguito erupts with an explosion of hot ash & rocks every few hours. So of course we decided to hike up the crater and go camping nearby.

First, let me tell you a little bit about the volcano. The Santiaguito Crater is a very active lava dome that is part of the much larger Santa Maria Volcano system.

At 12,375 feet tall, Santa Maria Volcano violently exploded in 1902, blowing off the whole Southern side of the mountain, resulting in one of the biggest eruptions of the 20th century and killing over 10,000 people.

Ash from this massive eruption was detected 2500 miles away in San Francisco.

In my photo of Santa Maria below, you can see the results from that huge 1902 explosion. Half the mountain is gone.

The Santiaguito lava dome was created in the aftermath of this blast. Since then, it’s been erupting every few hours on a regular basis for the past 80 years.

Climbing Volcano Santiaguito

I really wanted to hike up this volcano and get as close to the action as I could. But it wouldn’t be easy, and probably very dangerous too.

A grueling 8 hours climb with 40lb travel backpacks and camping on an older inactive volcanic vent, right next to the ACTIVE crater itself.

This was not a normal tourist activity.

Most visitors to the area just hike up neighboring Santa Maria Volcano and gaze down from a safe distance at Santiaguito — exploding over a mile away.

Only CRAZY people would attempt to hike up and camp on the actual erupting volcano itself..

But with a little couch surfing magic, I managed to round up 6 crazy people to join me. There was one trekking company that was willing to bring people up onto the active part of the volcano itself.

Still it took them a few hours to track down one of the only experienced guides who knew the route, as it was an especially tough and dangerous hike.

Our guide’s name: Crazy Charlie. Perfect!

Not A Walk In The Park

To achieve our mission of reaching the summit of Volcano Santiaguito, we’d have to hike, scramble, bushwhack, and outright scale (sometimes vertical!) sections of “trail” for the majority of the trip.

All this with full trekking backpacks loaded with 6 liters of water each, and everything else we’d need for 2 days on a barren volcano.

After prepping for the journey, the team set out, and up, Volcano Santa Maria for the first 2 hours of the trek.

About halfway up Santa Maria, we stopped for a break at the tourist filled Santiaguito Mirador, overlooking the erupting lava dome far below.

Now it was time to cut through thick jungle overgrowth and slide down a steep, ash-covered lava chute to “The Beach” — a giant landslide-boulder field at the base between Santa Maria and Santiaguito.

About 5 hours into the trip, we were all tired as hell. Stashing extra water to lighten our loads, along with the machete we no longer needed, we began climbing up the lava dome itself.

Welcome To The Moon!

It feels as though we’ve left planet Earth, and are now hiking on the lunar surface. Everything is covered in a thick layer of ash, making the whole landscape colorless.

Steam is rising up through vents in the ground. Clouds and fog are moving in all around us, sometimes making it impossible to see more than 10 feet ahead.

But the dome is not completely lifeless, there are strange plants with giant leaves and green-yellow moss mysteriously growing out of the ash.

Finally we hit our last obstacle before reaching the top: Only a 30 foot vertical rock climb.

With our heavy packs, and no ropes.

Oh, and that rock you think you’re grabbing for? It’s really just a mound of solid ash that falls apart when you put any weight on it. Fun!

But with laser-guided focus, careful testing of hand-holds, and strong communication, all of us safely make it to the summit.

Over the past 8 hours our group of total strangers has turned into a remarkable team — everyone watching each other’s back.

Was Climbing The Volcano Worth It?

Well, after the mentally & physically exhausting day of difficult & technical climbing, we were treated to one hell of an incredible view:

Hell Yes!!!

Volcano Santiaguito starts screaming like a jet engine as it unleashes it’s power. Ash gets thrown 200 meters into the air, and avalanches of rocks go tumbling over one side into the abyss below.

It was insane! The whole eruption process lasted maybe 5-10 minutes.

After processing Mother Nature’s incredibly raw display of power, we built a fire on our lunar landscape with bits and pieces of wood that we carried up strapped to our backpacks.

It was starting to get dark, and there was a long, cold, and interesting night ahead.

When the sunlight disappeared we could hear bats squeaking around in the air above us.

As the group sat around the fire drinking whisky to soothe our aching muscles, the Earth erupted again. It was too dark to see this time — but now there was a new surprise…

The Volcanic Explosions Continue

About 15 minutes after the eruption, volcanic ash began snowing down all around us. It was an ash blizzard! The wind had changed directions and we were covered in a fine layer of gray ash.

It came down like snowflakes, reflecting off our flashlight beams.

Our exhaustion and the whisky soon started to kick in though, and all 7 of us crammed into a 5 person tent. We had been dreading it, and for good reason. There was no sleep to be had all night…

It was cold, wet, cramped, and our next-door neighbor loudly erupted 2 or 3 more times over the course of the evening.

It’s difficult to sleep next to a roaring jet engine.

Should We Really Be Doing This?

But the adventure wasn’t over! The next morning at 5am we went over the edge of our campsite and down to meet our neighbor in person.

Scrambling downward over steep rocks, calling out to each other when loose boulders went rolling by, we made it to a little valley beside the active vent.

From there it was UP and ONTO the very active Santiaguito crater itself!

It could erupt at anytime, with us standing on it.

Although we weren’t actually on the side that often got hit with rock slides, our nerves were still on edge.

Volcanoes are known to be a bit unpredictable, after all.

On the top, at the very lip of the active crater, massive sulfur fumes enveloped us. We wrapped bandanas or t-shirts around our faces to help with the overpowering smell.

Preparing For The Worst

Unfortunately early morning fog and clouds surrounded us, so we only got fleeting glimpses into the crater itself.

Crazy Charlie told us that if the volcano erupted while we were on it, we should lay flat on the far side of the crater’s edge, to avoid any projectile rocks from the interior (they would just fly over us).

Luckily we didn’t have to experience this emergency first hand…

Eventually it was time to pack everything up and start the grueling 8 hour journey back to civilization. And get all the volcanic ash out of our clothes.

Volcano Santiaguito Update

Hey there! It’s now been 9 years since I first hiked up and camped out next to Volcano Santiaguito Crater in Guatemala back in 2010. A lot has changed since I first embarked on that crazy adventure.

The volcano experienced a MASSIVE eruption on June 17, 2016 that easily would have killed us had we been up there when it happened.

Since the activity on the volcano has increased so much, local authorities no longer allow people to hike so close to the volcano.

Your best option now is to hike up to the Santiaguito Mirador on Santa Maria Volcano, and view the action from a safe distance. ★

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

The City of Quetzaltenango (aka Xela)

Quetzaltenango is Guatemala’s 2nd biggest city, with 300,000 people. It has all the modern conveniences that Guatemala City has, only with fewer heavily-armed guards patrolling every street corner.

Xelajú was its original Mayan name, but when the Spanish conquered the city, they called it Quetzaltenango (the name their native allies used). But many people still refer to it by the shortened version of its traditional name, Xela (pronounced “Shay-la”).

I arrived in Xela via Chicken Bus from Lake Atitlan. The trip took a couple of hours, through scenic mountain farmlands and steep winding roads. Some of the roads showed signs of bad landslides and had not been completely cleaned up yet.

Cathedral of the Sacred Spirit in Parque Central

In the city, you’ll find an eclectic mix of Guatemalans dressed in fashionable jeans, short skirts, and suits, as well as indigenous women wearing colorful floral dresses and men sporting traditionally striped pants and Panama hats. But both groups walk around with cell phones to their ears. A melting pot of old traditions and contemporary culture.

I’ve really loved my stay here, despite the cold mountain weather and lack of indoor heating. My private hostel room only cost $36 Quetzales ($4.55 US) a night, and I had modern city amenities like decent WiFi and a multitude of restaurants just steps away. But the city is also surrounded by great outdoor activities as well, like my insane 2 day long trek to Volcano Santiaguito.

Quetzaltenango’s Huge Colorful Cemetery

Xela is a popular spot for Spanish language students to study, and there are a ton of schools in the area. Most of the other gringos I’ve met here are studying Spanish at one of these schools. But the city is not overrun with tourism, I might only see 5 or 6 other travelers walking about each day.

There’s a bit of nightlife, large outdoor markets, friendly people (except for one random teenager who practiced her English on me by calling me a mother****er!) as well as great old buildings and parks. Quetzaltenango (aka Xela) has a little bit of everything, and it’s an interesting stop on any traveler’s journey.

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Good Place to Sleep: Casa Blanca Guesthouse
Good Place to Eat: Sexto Estado Colonial (4a Calle & 14 Avenida, Zona 1)
Best Attraction: Santiaguito Crater Trek
Tips: Xela can be really cold November – February. Make sure to get photos of the Minerva chicken bus terminal & market. It’s a bit crazy, but safe during the day. The cemetery is good too, but it is NOT safe in the late afternoon/night.

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Book cheap flights on Skyscanner, my favorite airline search engine to find deals. Also read my tips for how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent local apartments on Airbnb ($35 discount!). Read my post for tips on booking cheap hotels.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Can You Guess Which One is Mine?

Today I was about to take an old, leaky Mayan canoe out for a spin. I had seen locals using dilapidated wooden canoes to get around Lake Atitlan and was curious about trying it out for myself. Would I be able to keep it afloat?

Tourists could rent plastic kayaks, but where’s the fun in that? I can rent a kayak anywhere. I want to use what the locals are using. An old, handmade canoe full of holes!

I had to bail out a bunch of water with the toy ball…

Before there were roads and motorboats here, everyone got around by wooden canoe. Lake Atitlan is a giant 50 square mile body of water, and the towns that sprang up around it did so because of these canoes. It was the only real form of transportation for hundreds of years. The owner of a restaurant in San Pedro explained to me that some canoes back then could hold 100 passengers!

Trying Not to Tip Over

Renting from a Local

But how would I accomplish my goal? I started asking around to find out if anyone would let me rent their wooden canoe. My Spanish teacher’s neighbor had one, and she introduced us. His name was Julian, and he decided to let me use it for 2 hours for a small rental fee.

Julian handed me a paddle and half a toy ball. He explained the piece of plastic was for bailing water out of the craft, due to the fact that it was full of holes… This was gonna be fun!

It was time to head out. I had confidence I could do it, because I had once been a kayak instructor. But even with my training, it took a few minutes to learn how to control the thing. At first I was going around in circles! You also had to be careful where you put your legs, so the whole boat wouldn’t tip over.

Once I got the hang of it, I started paddling along the shore passing kids swimming and women washing clothes at the side of the lake.

Volcanoes in the Distance

Look at the Funny Gringo

EVERYONE on the edge of the lake was staring at me. I think the whole scene was kind of amusing to them. But I just paddled along, waving at everyone with a big smile on my face. I had a great view of Volcano San Pedro in the distance.

At one point I pulled up to talk with a local fisherman who was out on a thin peninsula of rocks. But it turned out he was deaf & mute, so we actually didn’t talk much. At least not with our mouths… From hand signals I learned that the net he was patching up was for UNDERWATER fishing. He was a freediver! He’d swim around with an old beat-up set of snorkel gear, and catch fish underwater with the net.

On the way back from my canoe trip, I had to bail out a bunch of water with the toy ball to keep my craft afloat. But I loved every second of it! Random experiences like this one is why I love to travel.

[su_box title=”Travel Planning Resources for San Pedro la Laguna” style=”noise” box_color=”#333333″ title_color=”#FFFFFF” radius=”3″ class=”resource-box”]
Company: None. I rented from a local.
Cost: $30 Quetzales ($3.75 US) for 2 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Tips: Best to assume you’ll tip it over. Stay near the shore. I kept my camera in a dry-bag when not in use. If you paddle too hard, you’ll spin around in circles.

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Book cheap flights on Skyscanner, my favorite airline search engine to find deals. Also read my tips for how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Cars is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent local apartments on Airbnb ($35 discount!). Read my post for tips on booking cheap hotels.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.
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This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.