Ayder, Turkey

Join me for an epic trekking adventure into the beautiful Kackar Mountains in Eastern Turkey where raw wilderness and ancient lifestyles leave lasting memories.

The Kaçkar Mountains are located in northeastern Turkey, not far from the Black Sea. The highest peaks reach an altitude of 3,937 meters (12,917 feet).

Hiking in these mountains is quite a treat, as they aren’t quite as popular as other mountain destinations like the Italian Alps, so there are far fewer tourists.

However they aren’t completely “wild” either, meaning there is some infrastructure in place for day hikers and overnight trekking.

The Kackar Mountains are interspersed with yaylas, or rural mountain villages inhabited by nomadic herders who bring livestock to graze in the high pastures during summer months.

Kackar Mountains Hiking Guide

Getting To The Kackar Mountains

To reach the Kackar Mountains, I flew into the Turkish city of Trabzon. After stocking up on some basic hiking supplies in Trabzon — like cooking gas and backpacking food — I hired a minibus taxi (called a dolmuş) to take me to the pretty mountain resort village of Ayder.

There is a mountain road that continues past Ayder to another village called Yakari Kavrun. You can walk this road, or hitchhike, like I did. The road mostly follows the swollen Kavron River rushing with fresh snow melt.

There were some other yaylas along the way, however many were abandoned, and a few showed signs of life as locals began returning with their animals.

While Ayder was bustling in June, Yukari Kavrun was still mostly closed. It was too early in the season. The actual mountain trail into the Kackars started above the village in Yukari Kavrun.

The people living in the Kackar Mountains come from all over. Their ancestors were originally from Armenia, Greece, Georgia, Russia, even Uzbekistan. They make a living herding cows and sheep; producing delicious cheese, yogurt, and some of the best honey in the world!

Encountering Dangerous Weather

Not long after I started my hike, I stopped briefly for lunch on a hill surrounded by colorful orange, yellow, and purple wildflowers. A jagged wall of snow-capped peaks loomed ahead as I hiked on.

Weather can change quickly in the Kackar Mountains, and it happened to me. The blue-bird day was soon consumed by a blanket of dark clouds rumbling with lightning and thunder. Then came the hail!

I was forced to retreat into a valley and find cover as lightning repeatedly struck the exposed ridge in front of me. Hastily constructing an emergency shelter using a rain tarp and crawling under just as the worst weather hit.

CRACK! BOOOOOM! It was the loudest thunder I’ve ever experienced, practically shaking the mountain beneath me. Soon followed by blinding flashes of lightning.

I love crazy weather, but this was pretty scary. Hail hammered down from the heavens — closer than usual here at 8,000 feet.

Alpine Lakes & Backcountry Camping

The bad weather passed almost as quickly as it arrived though. I emerged from my shelter to begin hiking again, searching for a decent camping spot.

Stopping to set up camp and prepare hot tea beside a deep blue alpine pond as the sun dropped below the horizon.

What kind of shelter was I packing? A hammock of course! But at these altitudes there are no trees… only rocks. However you’d be surprised at just how versatile a camping hammock can be. A set of rock climbing nuts, a large trash bag, and a foam pad turns a hammock into a traditional bivy sack for sleeping on the ground.

The temperature dropped and I gazed at the stars in total silence for a while, drinking some olive oil and doing pushups to build up some body heat before climbing into my sleeping bag for the night.

The next morning was cold and sunny. I scarfed down some bread, honey, and trail mix for breakfast before heading back out on the trail.

Walking down into a valley through snow towards another mountain lake. The sunlight didn’t last long though, and dark clouds soon moved in for a 2nd day, threatening to delay me again.

Lush Green Valleys

I managed to hike up and over the pass after taking shelter under a rock for an hour as another hail & lightning storm floated by.

The trail here is almost completely hidden from view under a layer of snow, which usually sticks around until mid July in the Kackar Mountains.

There were a few tricky sections where the snow was deep, but I made it down into the next valley after about 6 hours of hiking — and what a beautiful place it was!

The area is called Dupeduzu, a popular camping spot in these mountains. Fields of blinding white snow morphed into lush green grass covered with vibrant wildflowers.

The soundtrack to this paradise? Gushing rivers winding down from the steep mountains above.

After camping out for a 3rd day in the mountains, I hiked down to lower altitudes in order to stock up on food. Luckily there are many yaylas not far away where it’s possible to buy basic supplies like bread, cheese, trail mix, canned tuna, olives, and beans.

Because it was still early in the season, some villages are sparsely populated or completely abandoned. It took me a few hours to reach one of the larger villages called Olgunlar.

They have a few small guesthouses here, and an early morning dolmusch (public taxi) that will take you out of the mountains on a dirt road.

Kackar Mountain Wilderness

Once stocked up for another 2 days of trekking, I left Olgunlar on foot to begin climbing towards my ultimate goal, a stunning high mountain lake called Deniz Golu, and maybe a summit attempt on Mount Kackar itself, depending on hiking conditions.

On the way I encountered more streams to cross, local Muslim shepherds leading their sheep and cattle out to the freshest grazing pastures, and plenty of butterflies. The same reason this area produces the best honey is also why there are so many species of butterfly around…

The Kackar Mountains have an incredible amount of diversity when it comes to wildflowers!

I pitched my hammock/bivy beside a large boulder at the Dilberduzu camping area, where there’s actually an outhouse due to the large number of local hikers who pass through for summer mountaineering adventures. I finally ran into a few other hikers here too.

On the morning of my 4th day I rose with the sun to climb as high as I could into the Kackar Mountains. It didn’t take long to reach snow, and a majority of my hike was spent on it. Not fully equipped to trek in these conditions, I was using small garbage bags to line the inside of my shoes — a type of poor-man’s GoreTex.

While your footwear gets soaked on the outside, your feet themselves stay pretty dry. Most of the snow was well compacted by this point anyway, so I only sank down to my ankles.

Extreme Sledding Adventure

The effects of altitude hiking at 10,000 feet was taking its toll — catching my breath was a bit more difficult and slowing me down. But after about 2-3 hours of scrambling up over rocks, I made it to lake Deniz Golu, which unfortunately was still frozen over!

Too bad, as I’d previously seen photos of the lake, and it’s a spectacular shade of blue.

I hiked further up to 11,000 feet searching for a high vantage point for capturing photos of the amazing landscape around me. Mount Kackar itself was covered in a thick layer of clouds & fog, and with no discernible trail in the snow, it wasn’t safe for me to continue on my own. Especially without proper gear.

So what is the quickest way to descend a snow-covered mountain? Extreme sledding of course!

I used my sleeping-mat as a makeshift sled, and it was super fun.

While walking out of the Kackar Mountins I discovered a group of local women preparing a picnic in the grass next to an abandoned yayla. They waved me over and insisted I join them. Tasty homemade food and boiling hot tea was just what I needed after 4 days in the wilderness…

Our language barrier was high, only knowing about 5 words in each other’s native tongue. But with lots of smiles and hand gestures, we had some awkward yet amusing conversation.

I thanked them and walked on to Olgunlar, checking into a guesthouse and catching an early morning taxi out. ★

Where To Stay In Rize

So, the area I was hiking is located in the Rize District of Turkey. I stayed in two different guest houses before and after my hike.

Gokkusagi Apart in the village of Ayder and Kackar Pansiyon in the village of Olgunlar. They are very basic mountain resorts, that feel a lot like hostels. They offer private rooms, or shared bunk rooms.

Kackar Hiking Guidebook

Looking to plan your own hike? Check out “The Kackar: Trekking in Turkey’s Black Sea Mountains” by Kate Clow.

Buy The Book Here

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

Tear Gassed Protesters in Istanbul

Istanbul, Turkey

Violence erupted in Istanbul this weekend on the anniversary of the Gezi Park protests. The past few weeks have seen at least 2 deaths and many injuries.

Last month on May 1st I was tear gassed by police as they clashed with protesters in the immigrant community of Tarlabasi where I was staying. Protesters were attempting to get to Taksim Square, site of the notorious 1977 May Day Massacre where some 36 people died when unknown gunmen opened fire on the crowd of 500,000 from rooftops over the square.

Ever since, gatherings in Taksim have usually been prohibited on this day. Turkish Prime Minister Erdogan banned protesters from entering the square to celebrate the holiday again this year, closing down parts of the city and sending an army of 40,000 police and 50 water cannons in to keep order and squash any resistance.

But labor unions and leftist political groups showed up anyway, armed with slingshots, gas-masks, fireworks, and molotov cocktails ready to start a fight.

Riot Police at Taksim Square

May Day Protesters Prepare for Clashes

Tear Gas vs. Fire Bombs

Admittedly I went out into the fray with my camera to cover the action. Joined by fellow travel blogger Becki Enright, we donned scarves and long sleeves to protect ourselves from the gas.

We stumbled into one of the main protest groups who were wearing red masks and yellow hard hats. They were attempting to bypass riot police through side streets. Some of them carried a large cardboard box full of molotov cocktails, which are beer bottles filled with kerosene and a cloth fuse.

Violence suddenly broke out when police arrived. It was complete chaos with fireworks launched at riot police and tear gas canisters landing in our vicinity, filling the air with smoke.

This was my first tear gas experience, and let me tell you, it isn’t pleasant!

The choking gas burns your eyes, nose, throat, skin, and makes you cough uncontrollably. You want to run in the opposite direction to find fresh air. But there is nowhere to hide, because the gas is everywhere.

Water Cannon Truck

Masked Protesters Waiting for Police

Violence In The Streets

Protesters were prepared though, firing rocks at the front line using slingshots. Then came the fire bombs! Men would light the fuse on a molotov cocktail, run up the street swinging the projectile in an arc before finally tossing it at officers who were hiding in a defensive formation behind riot shields.

When the bottle breaks in front of them, kerosene fuel explodes into a giant fireball. I’ve never seen anything like it. This was not a peaceful protest. It was a riot.

Eventually the gas became too much for us, and we ran into a local Kurdish market to breathe as police with gas masks moved in. They managed to force protesters back deeper into the neighborhood. Two women came running out of their homes towards the store screaming while holding crying babies.

We then watched as people were arrested and dragged away. Fighting moved on to other areas, smoke slowly cleared, and locals emerged from their hiding places to survey the damage. It was a surreal and shocking experience, but we were unharmed.

Police Form Protective Shield

Molotov Cocktails are Crude Fire Bombs

Mine Disaster & Other Deaths

Violence has been building all month. Over 300 people were recently killed in the Soma mine disaster on May 13th, many blaming the government after it privatized the company and safety standards went downhill.

Then 2 people were killed in the Okmeydani neighborhood of Istanbul on May 22nd during protests to remember Berkin Elvan, a 15 year old killed by police last year when he was hit in the head with a tear gas canister.

Members of the Revolutionary People’s Liberation Party/Front (considered a terrorist group by the United States) walked the streets of their community armed with shotguns and handguns.

A bystander was shot in the head by a stray police bullet after protesters threw molotov cocktails at armored vehicles. A 2nd man died when a homemade grenade exploded near police, wounding 9 other people.

Mother and Baby Run from Tear Gas

Protester Throws Molotov Cocktail at Police

2014 Gezi Park Anniversary

This weekend riots broke out yet again on May 31st, the anniversary of Istanbul’s Gezi Park protests last year. Taksim was closed off, and CNN reporter Ivan Watson was detained by police during a live broadcast. Later in the afternoon police used water cannons, tear gas, rubber bullets, and clubs to beat back thousands of protesters heading to the square.

I was was stranded across the water on the Asian side of Istanbul because ferries and other public transportation systems were shut down. But police fired tear gas at protesters that night in the Kadikoy neighborhood where I’m living. I heard at least 50+ explosions and the gas got into my apartment.

Istanbul wasn’t the only hot-spot this weekend though. Turkish travel blogger Anil Polat was detained by police in the capital city of Ankara while he was taking photos of the protests. He’s since been released.

Armored Trucks Patrol Istanbul

Riot Police Move in On Protesters

What Is Happening In Turkey?

I’m not Turkish, so I won’t speculate too much. But there is some civil unrest here right now. Large groups of people believe Prime Minister Erdogan should not be in power. But there are equally large groups who voted him back into office.

He is seen as rolling back the secularism that Turkey has been known for, instead of pushing for a more Islamic state. He’s been accused of corruption, intimidating journalists, jailing opponents, and more.

Earlier this year he tried to censor Twitter & YouTube throughout the country. Turkey is a very divided nation at the moment, and all these protests are proof of that.

However, once the protests are over, daily life appears to resume as normal. While walking around the tourist areas of Istanbul today it seemed like nothing ever happened.

So if you’re worried about visiting Turkey, don’t be.

In fact aside from this event, I had an epic time trekking through Northeastern Turkey’s Kackar Mountains.

Just stay away from any riots — unless you want to get tear gassed. ★

Have you ever joined a protest before? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.